110_USA

Thank you for the excellent questions and generosity Peter, As for collection I really don't know. I know where London, Cambridge, and Doncaster are but thats about it. Whoever it may be I would have to ask how far the item might be from where they are and other than fuel what sort of compensation for leg work would be appropriate. If they were willing and it would take a whole day to pick up a cubby box, it probably wouldn't be worth it. If it were something very expensive or impossible to find in the US, then it might be. I imagine there would be a bit of "playing it by ear" so to speak. I might add, to whoever is willing to help, you are doing me a huge favor, and if you can't pick something up for a couple weeks, for whatever reason, or you don't have time to ship something; or you have to say "listen here mate, the misses is driving me crazy, I need you get your kit out of the garage," I'm not going to be upset. I want to impose as little as possible. Andrew

Excellent question. Sorry I neglected to mention. First on the list are small bits; seat covers or seats, cubby box, parts of the dash. Don't really know what else might come up, probably parts of the suspension and drive train, a half shaft or prop shaft might be in order. At the most a fuel tank, door, or glass. I bought it "restored" but it is becoming evident I was at least partially deceived. It isn't so expensive that I want to give it up, and I'm having entirely too much fun, so I'd like to fix it up over the next year or two. I will start seriously looking early next month once I get this swivel pin issue sorted. Thanks for asking, Andrew

I've been turned on to eBay.UK by a number of people from this site. However few sellers offer international shipping. I was also surprised by the number of pick up only items. My conundrum is this, for smaller bits the shipping is prohibitive and sometimes simply not available. Would anyone be willing to hold some items for me, maybe a month or two at a time, and then ship them all together? Assuming it doesn't take up too much of your garage space. I'm not needing anything right now, I just would like to already know of someone to go to when the time comes. Aside from shipping and the actual parts cost I'd be willing to pay someone 5 or 10% of the parts value for your trouble. But all that can be hashed over with whoever is willing to help out. Cheers

My guess would be the steering damper. Never had that problem with a Defender but in some other American vehicles I've owned that was the culprit.

Ohhhhh, I'm going through this right now on the front of a 83 110. For me I thought it was the bearings, which it was. But once I got all that fixed and went to add oil it all poured out of the ball seal and the shaking remained. Now I get to replace the swivel pin assembly. How I wish there was a local parts supplier that didn't charge 2 to 3 times as much as Paddock. It's sad when the savings on parts justifies 50 to 100 GBP shipping.

Do you mean New York, ie. United States?

Thanks for the info. I'll try to pick one up somewhere or I'll be breaking out the torch.

I have three posts and two bolts on the bonnet of my Defender. I'll probably need to make the bracket to hold the wheel in place (as it is not there) Would be great if anyone would submit photos of the bracket and how it is affixed, although it looks pretty simple. My carrier looks just like this + two bolts in the outer posts. Cheers

Only problems I've ever had with a clutch other than normal wear is if the fluid leaks out, then it seemed to grab closer to the floor, and if you let it go long enough I would think you wouldn't be able to get it to disengage.

Thanks for the info sean. One of the popular scams here is to use a few parts from a series rover and bolt them to a Defender and register it as a "salvage/rebuild" of the series rover. Here they want it to "be" older than it actually is. After 21 years the EPA doesn't care anymore and after 25 years the DOT doesn't either. I've found a few parts places in the US and Genuine Land Rover parts are very expensive. No exaggeration, a cv joint replacement kit made by Pro-Line is about 120 USD, same bit but genuine is 400 and change. Calipers can also run into the 500's each. A 1993 NAS 110 with less than 100k miles demands over $60,000; If I'm not mistaken a new 110 in England isn't that much? I'm sure it's the same everywhere but it seems the US has more than its share of people with "more money than sense."

Thanks a lot Lars and Red. I'll take some photos and let you know how it goes. Do you know if anything is compatible with the 1993 Defender 110 NAS? There is a company in the US, "Atlantic British" that has parts but they cater mostly to NAS defenders and list compatibility by year, for instance "Part "blah blah" Fits '93 110 etc"

Wonderful info. Thank you very much. I don't plan to split them in half.

The first photo is the right front, bad side. Others are the left front. I need help identifying replacement parts; everything from the kingpin out. Long story short, it ran dry, welded itself together... Thanks anyone for help.

Ahh... AP indeed. I'll take them apart and see if rebuilding will work. Thanks for the help everyone.

£20:$40,000 haha I remember when it was only 1.20 Dollars to a GBP and I thought that was bad. Now even the Canadian dollar is more valuable, just embarrassing. Yes It is a ex-mil 110. Thanks everyone. One more question... for now. What might be or might not be interchangeable with the 1993 NAS 110s? Lots of NAS parts floating around this side of the ocean but not many early Defender bits? (there just aren't many here, most have gone through some clever registration to get here)

Also, the little rubber boots that cover the end of the hub. Mine are a bit dry rotted and I know I've seen them online before, just don't remember where. Anyone know?

Are there replacement axles? How do you ID an axle? Any random axle info would be great.

Lars L, you're my new best friend. You know so much! Thank you.

I guess the bolt goes where the handle would in the head of the pickaxe? Funny I thought the next most logical tool after the shovel would be a mattock but just couldn't picture how it would fit on there. Thanks.

Haha, I tried a play on words because they did indeed break. Thanks for the info.

The 110 I have is basically identical to this one only a different color. Just wondering what the different labeled parts are for. Number 2 is missing from mine but holes remain where they once were. There are 2 number 1's, one on each side in the same place. Also what is the tool for the fixture under the shovel mount? Will headlamp finishers fit? Anything else anyone would like to throw in would be appreciated. Cheers

Looking to replace both front break calipers on my 83' 110. The old ones are "ab" brand and the numbers are 3247 682C and 3247 681C what is a suitable replacement, as well as pads to go with them? And just out of curiosity why are some $500 or more and can 90 breaks work on a 110? Thank you.

Just thought I would add this because I too was confused at one time. (not that long ago) "EP90 means "extreme pressure 90" 90 is just the oil weight, it is a gear oil, many brands have a lot of types. 75w90 90w140 etc, like motor oil. Gl-4 and Gl-5 seem to be the standards that you want to get. The stuff stinks something awful too.

Sorry I neglected to mention, The air relief is in place and working well, the other one is right next to it. Will try to post some pics today.

There is a small, short, metal tube on the top right hand corner of my fuel tank (right next to the fill hose) that has been capped off. It appears to be leaking from its base. Should I just remove the tube or try to patch it? What is it for anyway? A spare fuel tank connection? Thanks