cowasaki

and wheel bolts being tight ! I was imagining all manner of ills with a similar noise a few months ago then discovered the bolts hadn't been tight

What is the difference in price?

I had this exact problem with mine. I replaced the leak back pipes which only cost £4. Don't buy a leak back replacement kit just buy one metre of 3.2 inner diameter fuel pipe and pull off each of the pipes between cylinders one at a time measure against the new pipe, cut off and push on.... job done. BUT This really sounds like the lift pump. I was messing around for a month and even changed the battery thinking the issue was there. I found fault with my heater plugs and changed them plus the main fuel pipe and filter. All this was good for the landy but didn't fix the fault. A new lift pump sorted it instantly and it has never failed to start first time since. You can check if it is the lift pump by removing a fuel pipe and sticking your finger over it then activating the fuel priming lever. If your finger is pushed off or sucking against the pipe (depends which pipe) then your pump is ok but as I've said I think your fault lies here.

If you want your light in the rear of the tub to go on and off switched by the same switch as the front light which means when the front light is in auto position both will come on with the doors opening, on with the on and off with the off then you can do that by opening up the front light and soldering two wires to the contacts for the bulb. Once you've done that these two wires become the live and ground for the rear light which will do whatever the front one does. If you want both to come on with the safari door opening too you can easily do that by taking the purple and blue wire going into the front light and extend this along the roof edge to the back door where you need to fit a door switch like the front one making sure its screw goes to ground properly.

The newer defenders have a relay in the door. I actually fitted the motor out of a Mitsubishi into mine as it was lying around but I did look at a deal on the newer motors on ebay. Can you post a picture of the motor with where the wires go into.

I've changed the main seal and added the bottom seal. My doors are 2011 spec so they had the other bottom seals too. I found the I had to mess with the hinges and door fit in order to make them shut properly whilst also sealing. They do require a proper clunk to close correctly but it's worth it.

The resistor, what are it's values? 100 ohm..... does it say how many Watts?

Hello everyone, it's my first post here, I have a problem.... I bought my 1994 300TDi 90 nearly 2 months ago and I've been working my way through it fixing lots of small and some larger problems. One issue was that a previous owner had apparently replaced the rear safari door but had simple chopped off the wiring and there wasn't a door panel. I connected the rear motor to the existing wiring and it would not work so took it apart and it was rusty inside and clearly dead. So I've been looking round for a wiper motor and found that Craddocks had some motors with arms and blades for £50 inc postage so I thought I would splash out and get a new one. The motor arrived but it has 2 connectors on it.... a) is a 2 pole connector but with only 1 pole actually having a connector. This connector has a yellow wire going to the motor. b) is a 3 pole connector wired white, green and brown. The perfect solution would be that newer defenders have the same wiring colours and they simply go to there connectors which push into place and as such a photo of one plugged in would sort it! My 90 has the following colours: Black - which is ground. Green Brown/light green Red/light green Many thanks....