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Hi, I had the same issue on mine and it turned out to be a bad connection on the indicator in the bumper. One minute it was going good then another it was rapid as the connection had broken.? Just a thought

Cheers Jonah, I shall give them a looksy Regards Dave

hi, I am about to rebuild my 90 onto a galvy chassis and in the process, converting it to a soft top. To make this the way I want it, I am after a pair of 2 piece doors from a series 3. Is there anyone out there with a set of doors (top and bottoms) that are not past their sell by date and are not after silly money for them. I am down on the South Coast in the New Forest area for info. Many thanks in advance Dave

Thanks for all your words of advice, I am actually going to be building this 90 from scratch onto a galvy chassis, so all the issues about corrosion etc, will be sorted. I have the lift up door handles so I'm guessing the striker could be ok. NOt a problem if not as easy enough to replace. The door stay again, will not be an issue. They are the small bits and pieces I can get as and when I get to it. Again, cheers guys Dave

I have a question that I think I know the answer too already. Will series doors fit straight onto my 90 and does anyone have a couple sitting around doing nothing that are still serviceable? Regards Dave

hi, I realise that I have come into this conversation quite late on and have read all the comments. If all the things you have tried fail to correct this issue, then perhaps you could try checking all your earths. I had an issue with my300TDi in that it would not start. I tried all sorts to get it started. Jump packs etc etc but all to no avail. I checked the 2 earths and they were fine too. What I did in the end was buy a 3rd Earth Lead and connect it directly between the engine and battery as the one on the starter motor and the one between the chassis and body didn't do the job. This instantly changed the starting issues I had had with mine and I have never had a starting problem since. Maybe I am barking up the wrong tree but it's another thought for you. Good luck in your quest Dave

Hello again, monroe shocks are fine for the type of use your gonna do and you are correct in saying you wont notice the difference hardly at all. To fit those ARB's you will need to check your axles front and rear for the connection area. If they are original then I doubt you will have them. The RR axles you have seen will fit straight on. The only difference could be that they have different calipers on (if they are still fitted). This would not be a problem as you could just swap them for yours. They are all the same fitment anyway. The ARB's seem to have the chassis fixtures there for you to weld on already so that is good. I think the best thing to do is take some measurements off a Disco with ARB's fitted and mark it on your chassis. I guess you could connect the front end and see where they hang but I don't know how accurate that would be. I'm not sure what year they introduced ARB's but it would definately be a massive improvement to your Discos handling. You may even find the chassis fitment already there. Regards Dave

Hi, First thing first, if you are not going to do anything tuff going in this car then replace bushes with OEM parts. YOu would not notice the difference if you swapped to Polybush. The anti roll bars (ARB) would make the biggest difference to you. They will stop the excessive body roll you get going round corners. It won't by any means eliminate this roll but will reduce. Make sure you have the connections on your axles as well as the body. I think you can get the items to retro fit them to non compatible axles??? If you have a large family and really load the car up when taking camping trips and this is a regular thing, then I would recommend upgrading the rear springs to heavy duty ones. This would stop the rear sagging and also add to the stability along with the ARB's. Shock absorbers are really down to a matter of opinion. I would recommend you change from oil to gas shocks if it isn't already. I wouldn't bother with a lift kit as you are probably going to keep the standard wheels and tyres on there. This would only add to the stabiity issue anyway. If you are going to greenlane on a regular basis then get some good AT tyres as road tyres wouldn't get you far if it was a bit damp. I hope this helps a bit. Regards Dave

Hi, Sounds similar to a problem I had a while ago. I though it was the battery, then the starter but was not going to replace them (mainly because of cost) untill I trid all other options. I cleaned the 2 earh leads. One being off the strter motor and the other btween the chassis and body but this didn't fix the issue. I decided to try another earth lead and purchased one for a few quid. I put it between the battery and the engine casing. I bolted it to the top of the timing belt cover and the problem was instantly solved. I have never suffered with that problem since. It took me 2 years to get round to it as I thought that was a trait of an older landy!!! I think this will cure your issue Regards Dave

Hi, I had an identical problem on my Disco 300 TDi. The first thing I did was clean up the 2 earth leads I had. One was on the starter itself and the other between body and chassis, but this did nothing to ease the issue. I then purchased a new earth lead and placed it between the battery and the engine. I bolted it to the top of the timing belt casing. The car has never started as good as it does now. First turn of the engine and she fires up without fail. It has never given me any grief since. Just a shame it took 2 years for me to get round to fixing it. I just thought they were all like that LOL I bet this fixes your problem and is only a couple of quid to solve it Regards Dave

Hi, Replacing the shocks on the back end of a Disco is an easy enough job. It's not located inside the spring so easy to get at. A socket set and spanner should be all you need. The top nut is plain sailing but the bottom is a little more difficult to undo. Jack car up and remove wheel. (put axle stand in if you have one!) You should easily see both ends now and figure out where to undo it. I tend to have a pair of grips to hold the shocker still whilst undoing the lower nut. Just make a note of which way round the washers and rubbers all go as you take them off. I'm not sure of the settings for doing them back up again but do not over tighten them or leave them too loose! Regards Dave

Hi, It could be a couple of things. Check for loose baffles in your exhaust, also check the heat guards by your alternator. Just do a general check for any iem that could be loose in the engine bay or underneath. Perhaps even your thrust bearing is on it's way out Regards Dave

Hi, I got my breather kit from Wizardbilt (think thats how they spell it)on Ebay. It is quite a neat set up I have. I have 5 pipes going to F & R axles, gearbox, transfer box and timing belt cover. All these pipes come upto a 5 into 1 cylinder and so I only have the one pipe coming up between the snorkle and the windscreen pillar. Hope this helps Dave

hi, If you brother is a welder, then get him to plate it. Remove the bracket, and use some decent thickness of metal. With regards to the fuel tank, you say it would make access better, so you have answered your question yourself. I would always question playing with the extreme heat next to a fuel tank!!! Regards Dave

When I swapped mine to a 24 spline, I used a RR prop. Cheap and easy to get hold of. Regards Dave

Hi, as has already been said, old car, high milage best cure is to replace springs and shockers. I'd be tempted to do all round rather than just the fronts. Couldn't tell you about the pipe work as haven't had the pleasure of needing to do that yet. The window issue could be the master unit which I believe is in the drivers door. This is probably you first point of call seen as though you have checked fuses. Also check the wire for breaks where it passes from door to body. I have seen many wires broken in this spot and it's normally only spotted once they have spent money on replacement parts!!! The windo not working could be a number of things. It could be again broken wiring, broken motor, gunked up window runners which have jammed the window too tight for the motor to work. Again take panel off and have a good look inside to assess the state of play. Until you look inside, your gonna waste your time. nothing too in depth there I know, but untill you inspect further all of the problems we will only be clutching at straws. regards Dave

Hi, I am about to convert my 90 to a soft top and wondered if there was a light bar to suit. I have a lightbar at the moment and would like to continue having one. Is there one out there?? Regards Dave

Hey Mark, You had better get this issue sorted mate, as I am on my way up to you soon. Got dog sitter so definately coming and don't want to hear excuses that a diff is still broken!!!!!!!! Want a full weekend of mud and grime lol Dave