TonkaIIa

Thanks for the info Guys, I've removed the gearbox and by looking at the crankshaft oil seal it appears to be a 5 bearing engine. At least I now know what to order. Cheers Gary

Donald, Hope this helps, but I think the part number for the Clutch Pipe Adaptor is 139082, this is the from the pipe to clutch master cylinder. Link below for the part Click here Click here Regards Gary

Evening all, I've just come around to checking the engine number on my series IIa, the engine number begins with 11HXXXXX. Looking through the Haynes Manual it has come to light this is not a series IIa engine but more likely a 90/110 Searched through the web, and found that the engine number relates to a 90/110 petrol, 2286cc, 8:1CR (Detoxed) Can anyone help me in what year the engine would be and history of this type of engine, any known problems? This is currently married up to a series gearbox (Suffix E) Not sure what the "Detoxed" mean either! Any info would be much appreciated. Cheers Gary

Hi, I've just installed a rear set of Procomp-9000 (Rocky Mountain ones) a couple of weeks ago on my IIa (88"). I was told when I was ready to fit them, to open & close them 7-10 times. You do feel them getting stiffer. Did this with no problem installing them. Only cut the wire when I was ready to install them. Cheers Gary

Hi all, Thanks for the comments/info. After some thinking, reading and checking out other threads my mind is made up to wait and see if I can pick-up a 200TDI local to me at a good price. They do look a nice clean fit in the engine-bay on the conversions I've been reading about. Driving to work today and watching (Hearing ) the transit's overtaking me I thought to myself, I can't do it!!! It's a shame as the 2.5 Di engine I was watching was only for £60.00 complete, but was not the one with a turbo on. On another note, my current gearbox in the series IIa has a suffix "E" (25351522 E) at the end of the number, will this be OK to handle a 200TDI or other engine conversion which has been listed above? FridgeFreezer - your right about the foam stuff between two layers of bin bags, these were fitted in the engine-bay and floor to reduce the engine noise on the old transit's I remember working for the oldman and pulling this stuff out as it went hard & brittle over time Thanks all again. Cheers Gary

Hi all, Has anybody ever fitted a Transit 2.5 Di engine into a series IIa swb? Adapter plate are available for about £260. Will I needto change the engine mountings andupgrade the braking system? Are these a loud engine in a land rover!! Any info please. Cheers Gary

Thanks for the info guys, On my return from Mauritania I'll check out these products. Cheers Gary

Hi all, I'm currently in the process of cleaning my chassis (rear section), due to having the complete rear end off I'm looking at applying some type of protection on the chassis. I realize waxoyl is a good protection for the chassis, but what should be applied underneath it The chassis has been buffed, which has in some areas evened the old waxoyl out! My main concern is that if I was to just paint on a primer or undercoat and then apply the waxoyl on-top, in the not so distance future this will slowly start to peel off. My idea was to use a primer first, then apply a rust-guard and then apply the waxoyl on-top, but as the chassis has only been buffed there is still rust visible. Is there anything I could use which would prolong the chassis under the waxoy and stop the rust coming through or is it a matter of cleaning and maintaining the chassis yearly? Cheers Gary

Dan, I'm just down the road from you (Work in Aberdeen), if you could send some details to me (PM etc) I'll see what machine-shops I know can do and cost for manufacturing them. We have some CNC machines on-site but not sure if they would be able to carry this out, but can check at the same time. Gary

Hi ROGUE TROOPER, Was just reading through this thread, I've just ordered these seals (RTC3510) for my rear axle strip-down and was wondering if you could tell me the size they are, just incase I need to order the RTC3511 seals. Cheers Gary

Hi all, I'm currently stripping down my rear axle (Rover type unit) to make sure all is well. The bearings seem fine along with all the rest. I've just ordered all new gaskets for replacing them before I start to rebuild it, but whilst reading my "Haynes & Land Rover workshop manual" they are stating there is two differnet types of hubs "Grease" & "Oil" filled. Whilst stripping this down, only old oil came out and not much either I've found on the "Driving member" a philips head screw, would I be right in saying that this is the oil type hub? If this is a oil type, what type of oil & how much is required to be installed? I would also like to install a new "Oil seal for inner bearing", is it easy as just remove it from the rear hub without touching the hub bearing inner? Any info would be very much appreciated. Cheers Gary

Might do...but there is a different powder coating which doe's not chip and black in colour

Hi all, As promised here's my attempt at the blanking off the crossmember for my series IIa First job was to remove all the paint, this was carried out by paint stripping and hire pressure water blasting. Next was to fill-in the area's which had lack of welding, then cut out the plate for filling in the ends. Both ends were boxed in with the plate, and handles were also attached prior to welding. When all parts had been fitted & welded, the crossmember then went for a sweet-blast to insure no paint or other debris were left on. The special primer was then sprayed on, and allowed to dry. Crossmember was then placed into the oven which had been set at 220C°, this was slowly conveyed through the oven. After half an hour, the primer was cured and baked on and one finished crossmember Job complete and ready for installing onto my Landy. The crossmember will be painted black once in place and waxoyl applied in those hard to get area's...... My idea now is to do the same to the axles, but might also add on a plastic coating for extra protection B) I will add most work was carried out by personnel at work. Cheers Gary

Hi, I am considering changing my series IIa 2 1/4 petrol to a Nissan 2.7TD (Maverick/Terrano) Have found a conversion kit and seems like a straight forward conversion, with some slight modifications needed. The conversion kit consist of the following - Aluminum conversion plate Engine mounting brackets Engine mounting rubbers Spigot shaft bush Chassis mounting bracket All nuts/bolts Just have some question - 1, Has anyone ever carried out this type of conversion on there series, and what was involved? 2, Would there be any problems with engine weight doing this conversion? 3, Has anyone have a opinion on the Nissan 2.7TD engine reliable, fuel etc etc? 4, My gearbox suffix ends with an "E" which I believe is the later box!, would there be any concern in placing this engine onto this gearbox? Any info/guide would be very much appreciated. Cheers Gary

They do look nice for £195 for a pair, and would most likely last a long time & save money I'll put them on my Xmas list.... Cheers Gary

Looks good Les, Since purchasing my new crossmember for my IIa and reading your threads i've made the decision to do the same to mine. The only difference is that the end areas which are being blanked off will still have a hole present in the bottom to allow the air to pass through and have a yearly waxoyl treat, hopfully this should also stop any moisture starting and rotting the ends. A rubber bung will be place in the hole to stop the mud etc going in. The primer which will be applied will be baked on (A treatment we carry out at work), will post pictures when complete (Early next week all going well) Cheers Gary

Tony, Link below for 3/4" UNF x 6" bolts High Tensile, box of two for £7.26. http://www.ahc-camberley.co.uk/catalog/pro...t=2a&page=4 Part numer - Z0317F0220600, third from bottom. Cheers Gary

Hi Dano, I've just replaced a new top half door on my IIa, the drain holes are on the ends of the door outer side only (Photos below) The lack of welding on the new top makes my think is this going to last long..... And by the look of my other door this has started to rust up & bubble the paint and the channel is also rusting Cheers Gary

Currently NO suspenders will be fitted. Been reading a bit of this on various web-pages and found that most people did not fit them on, or if they did overtime they would cut them off Would be interesting to see if other makes of shocks come with check straps as part of the kit?

Thanks for the info guys I'll take your approach and won't worry to much, but will keep an eye on them. Cheers Gary

Hi all, I have purchased a set of R/Mountain Procomp ES9000 shocks for my IIa (Along with leaf springs), can anyone tell me if the check straps should be fitted. I've checked out the web-page of RM which states that installing these will prevent the axle dropping down to far to damage the shock when the axle is at maximum articulation. My intention is not to use this IIa for serious offroading, is it beneficial still to install these if i'm not going to take this pass the maximum length....! The check straps which were on the chassis have been cut off at some point, which makes me think are these redundant now? Or should I have purchased the ES3000/9000 with the open piston/boot type? Any suggestion would be must appreciated. Cheers Gary

Hi all, Whilst stripping down my series yersterday, I found an old plate with "Conversion by R.J.Searle Ltd, Thames Street Sunbury. Can anyone shed some light on who they are and what they do or done... I believe they made Carawagon for Land Rovers! Makes me think what has my series been through Cheers Gary

Interesting threads Les, Supplier was Paddocks. Interesting to read your thread on "Strengthening a rear crossmember", looks much better when all the gaps are filled in By the look of your photos the welds were not filled-in the same spots either.... Cheers Gary

Hi all, Have just purchased a new crossmember for my Series IIa and the first thing I noticed is the lack of welding in some areas! It could be just me, but I would of thought that the area between the welds would of been welded to reduce the chance of rust and water/mud holding in this area? I'm going to have the areas welded up prior to installing, this way it may last a bit longer... By having this welded up, can this cause any problems?? Regards Gary

You could checkout http://www.scorpion-racing.co.uk/ they make "Landieboxes" to fit into the wheel arch void Click on the "Exterior" and then Landieboxes. Cheers Gary