TonkaIIa

Seen some here for sale, but are slight seconds!!

That looks like the one, cheers

Hi all, I removed a set of MAP FWH and sold them, but have realized that the castle nut went with them The shafts are 24 spline, can anyone advise which part number is for the castle nut to fit the 24 spline as the 10 spline I have spare are to small. Cheers Gary

I'm lucky were i live, all the neighbours are really good with me working on the series at present. I think they are all waiting to see what will come out of the garage. Some of the neighbours work shifts, so I just keep an eye out who's on what shift and then make sure I don't do any grinding/banging until it's safe. Being friendly with neighbours help, just a case telling them what your doing and showing them sometimes helps. But you could put one of these up at the bottom of the road advising you neighbours..... Cheers Gary

Hi All, Spent most of today fitting the front axle on with the new front RM springs/shocks received. The coated swivel housings balls fitted really well, with the rear seal sitting perfect on the ball and moving easily when moved. Really happy how they have come out, and look forward to trying them on the test run when the motor is complete. Cheers Gary

Brown....... Well i've fitted the bearings today, whilst removing the slight over-spray in the recesses the coating is very very hard so can't see any problems with wear, but time will tell. I just wished i'd had the chassis done like this as well Cheers Gary

Hi, John Craddock do a Series 1 rear cross member for £145.00 + VAT, Part No JC157. Not sure if this comes with extensions. Cheers Gary

Hi all, Just an update on how the coating looks on the Swivel Housings. Damaged chrome was grit blasted off to clean white metal (SA2.5), a primer was sprayed on and baked to harden. Once cooled coating was sprayed on and baked to harden, with the finished product below Finish is really smooth, with just some small areas you can see were the pitting was but should be OK. Some coating has been applied into the bearing recesses but will be cleaned out prior to refitting the bearings etc. Just a case then of fitting them onto the axle and see how long they last...... Will keep you all updated. Cheers Gary

14" x 14" x 10" including the fan, width without the fan is around 3 1/2". Cheers Gary

Hi all, I’m currently working on a series IIa which I have just installed a Discovery engine in place of the 2.25 petrol. I’m now up to the part of thinking how to install the intercooler, my first idea was to go down the route of using a 300TDi intercooler beside or in front of the radiator. Since this I’ve just purchased a MR-2 intercooler off the internet auction house for 99p, and appears it will fit between the headlight and radiator (If my measurements are correct) and pipe work will fit straight to the intercooler nicely. The only thing it comes with a fan, is it worth keeping the fan on the intercooler or removing it? If it is worth keeping, I can move the radiator slightly to install the intercooler along with the fan. Any advised would be much appreciated. Regards Gary

I purchased a Records vice off e-bay for 99p, then paid no more then £8.00 for P&P. Just use parcel2go or interparcel, can go up to 30kgs, just make sure the seller will pack the item if not the couriers will not collect. Regards Gary

Not sure if this link would help, manual with drawings. Link Cheers Gary

I have the smaller model SIP Migmate Turbo 105, bought off *bay for £70. No problems with it so far, and welded everything that's been required on the series so far (Chassis, bulkhead etc etc)

OK, I've done a little research on the products we have at work. One of the coatings looks the best to use on these. Thickness between 0.152 - 0.305 millimeters (152-305 µm) Roughness less then 0.005 millimeters (5 microns) Good abrasion High impact resistance Temp to 203°F (95°C) Colour "Brown" A primer is used prior to the application of the coating, this should remove most of the pitted areas prior to the coating be applied. My only concern is that the rubber seal will not move easily as the chrome Does anyone have a photo of a teflon coated ball (I'm getting the hang of using this word.....) Cheers Gary

Hi all, I’m currently in the process of stripping down and rebuilding my front axle on the series IIa. My idea was to renew all seals/gaskets and have a check over, replace the axle casing with the one I had plastic coated at work. On inspecting the Chrome Swivel Housing Balls, I’ve noticed that some areas of the chrome are missing and slightly pitted, but with no real depth to the pitting. Is it just a case of renewing them.....!! My question is it possible to have the balls grit blasted and re-coated with some other type of coating instead of replacing them? I’m thinking of using the coating at work (Same on the axle) on the ball area, this is very smooth with roughly the same thickness of the chrome plating already on the balls. Another plus is that any damage to the plastic coating can be repaired by applying a repair patch on it and sanding down with wet & dry. If I was to go down this path, would there be any problems from doing this? Has anybody done this before? Any thoughts or ideas!! Cheers Gary

Checked the measurements for the outriggers and all are in the correct place, also no warping on the chassis which I can see from. When I took a closer, it does appear that the outrigger has been welded on the squint Looks like the grinder shall be out again to play soon. Cheers Gary

Hi all, Thanks for the replies The outrigger does appear to have been replaced at some time, no evidence of the chassis being warped in that area or along the chassis. I'm going to check again the chassis tomorrow to see if there is warping of the chassis, the only thing coming to mind is that the previous outrigger was rotten and the new one was installed but not squared to the chassis and pushed into the cut when it was removed Will let you know the outcome. Cheers Gary

Hi all, I removed my bulkhead yesterday, and have just noticed that the front bulkhead outrigger is slopping down away from the chassis When I placed a spirtlevel across the Fuel Tank outrigger and the Bulkhead outrigger, the gap is 1" to level the bubble in the level. The Bulkhead outrigger on the lefthand side is level. Can anyone please advise me if the two outriggers should be level, as I would like to correct this before I start to paint the chassis. If it is incorrect would make sense why the bulkhead was learning to the driverside Cheers Gary

Hi all, I’m currently in the process of installing a Discovery 200TDI engine into my SWB series IIa. I’ve read a few threads on carrying out this conversion on series and looking for some opinion on the engine mounts. Which are the best to fit? The current 2.25 petrol engine mounts or the Discovery (1) 200TDI engine mounts. Can someone please also tell me what the stud size is from the engine flywheel cover to the gearbox (tap & drill bit size) Any info would be great. Cheers Gary

Same here, ordered parts for my bulkhead. Parts turned up within 2 days, and well packed. Only one thing, just welded the nearside footwell in and all the spot welds have come undone Looks like I'll be doing some more welding now....

Thanks for the advice. Have found one this morning just 10 miles from the house, started first time with no smoke or rattles. Ran very smoothly well please. Will get everything from the engine bay for a song.

Hi all, I have a chance of purchasing a Discovery 200tdi engine to install into my Series IIa (88"). Looking for some advice on purchasing this type of engine, I've been told I will get the following parts with the engine - Engine (Obvious) Starter Motor Air Intake Gear Flywheel Turbo Exhaust Manifold Fuel Filter & Pump Exhaust Downpipe Radiator & Intercooler including hoses to be purchased separately. No alternator comes with the above, but would use my Series one if this is possible. The engine has covered around 110k miles What other parts would I need from the discovery for me to carry out this converstion, and any signs to look at for when buying these engines? The engine has sat for a while, has not been turned over or started so would not be able to hear or see the engine in action. Any advice would be much appreciated. Regards Gary

This may give you some idea's as it looks cool/smart... B) Link Gary

Glad it worked Mike Regards Gary

Hi, Photos of the Shark tooth rail attached on my front window, on my one it's been pop riveted in (Not sure if this is correct!!) The front of the soft-top fit's into these and then the hood goes over the sticks, there are also some corner fittings which attached to the front window. I'll check mine tomorrow as it's still attached to the tub, will post some more photos for you of the door area and were the rope goes. Cheers Gary