dangerous doug
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Posts posted by dangerous doug
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A lot done today without much to show.
Managed to set up the axle on the compound table and I am a convert, the original plan was to do the job, take the table off and use the drill as normal but being able to move the work piece around without having to move and re clamp the vice is a very nice thing.
found out pretty quickly that the annular cutters don’t really like interrupted cuts. Can’t really see in the photo that it climbed out of the hole and jammed up. Started again and eased off the pressure a bit untill the hole was established and all was well
The evolution wand in action, I’ve had this for a while but never really used it, makes cleaning up a lot easier…..basically just a magnet in a tube
assembled one hub fully so I can finalise caliper brackets and the drag link arm. Forget if I’ve said already but the spacers are going to need a little tickle on the lathe to clear the calipers
So now on to the horse shoe for the high steer/track rod arm. Projected all the details onto a piece of card then moved it in each direction by 25mm to get my template
Transferred to a bit of ali to make sure it’s going to work and this is what I got
Ofcourse nothing is simple, going to have to shim the plate out when it’s done. But looks doable
Then stated the same prowess with the caliper bracket, diddnt finish that as a friend popped round and I ran out of time to make noise. Luckily it looks like I can use a piece of 6mm steel, pick up off of the brake shoe mount with an m20 bolt and it’ll give me the exact spacing I need.
the steering bracket will be made from 25mm plate but I cannot find any. Normal go to is eBay as I only need 300mmx200mm but there doesn’t seem to be any about at the moment so if anyone has anything like that they’re sick of tripping over, let me know and I’ll get it out of your way😁
still struggling with photo formatting so have to screenshot the photos and upload that
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6 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
So I'm more or less just cleaning this up now whilst doing that I was thinking about how to achieve a sand cast look...
This is what I came up with, first picture is just dressed up a bit with die grinder and a rotary burr the second is after a wee bit play with a needle gun
Thoughts would be appreciated
Regards Stephen
Put it this way…. I thought I missed a bit here, you went through all this to make a die and you had sand cast it
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6 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
I did have a brief look, just did not find anyone shipping out of the States
Regards Stephen
Yeah you have to find a shipping company…they are dotted about the place and you basically tell them what you want shipped, you then order from the states to the state side shipping address where they’ll get put into a container…..the place near me manages to knock a bit off if you pay the tax in cash aswell
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If the thought is changing to 17s and then getting some 40s then why not look at shipping some 20x40s from the states? Maybe work about the same price and you get to keep your wheels
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7 hours ago, Daan said:
Can't you just offer up the diff and drill through?
For a few holes yes but 4 overlap and another one is in the diff cutout, so the plan is to drill them out with the annular cutters, fill them in with weld and re drill
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9 hours ago, landroversforever said:
As they’re round tube rather than the pressed parts of a standard case I’d try for large vee blocks under each side.
Trying to remember how I machined my cases flat for the D44 diff pans, I want to say I sat it on the diff mounting face, and clamped it from the inside. Need to dig through my pictures.
V blocks were my first choice aswel but I think the pumpkin is too big to use them on the table. So the plan was to build a cradle with the 3” clamps I have but I’ve also just found out that 123blocks bolt together so maybe that saves me a bit of welding
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Sooooo, I did a little test set up on the drill to see how I was going to attack drilling and modding the holes.
this isn’t going to work…. I knew they would be a pain to clamp but it’s not undoable. What I can’t deal with is doing a set up for every single hole.
searching the internet I eventually found a cross slide for an ok price. It’s not to bad, I wanted an older used one but couldnt find one that was the size I needed so found this import one with a 600x240 bed. It’s not too bad, It has .001 runout across its whole travel which is good enough for me.
So that’s the multi set up thing taken care of now I’m working out how to actually clamp it, I have a 3” tube clamp that I split to get 2 parts so there’s that. I was going to make a jig which can bolt to the table.
anyone have a better idea to clamp it down? I’m new to the machining thing(I use machining loosely) and may be missing something. The side projects are stacking up on this build😂
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Polybush have a set of front bushes called “voids” I have them fitted and the front end flexes really nicely.
they only come in the wide cotton reel variety though…..so I cut them in half and narrowed them to fit in the narrow arms I have.
niges solution of drilling the bushes work really well too and it’ll be a much better solution to mine.
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They are about but they are a dumper tyre. I dont know what they’re called but they’re a less open chevron pattern. Or you can try and find what The zil 131 use
https://mortarinvestments.eu/catalog/item/zil-131-12-20?
or there are things like the Michelin xzl
IIRC These are also a michelin but I forget what they’re called
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43 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
Will the track arm you have positioned in front of the axle clash with the power steering arm at full articulation, or is it made to clear
Regards Stephen
It shouldn’t but I’m not quite at the stage where I can make a solid call on that one mate
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27 minutes ago, Daan said:
That looks good Doug, definitely 16" rims at any price,
The question is, will your axles get used in 2024?
Daan
There are threats of this…but if they are then it’ll be limited. The truck itself needs work and a bit of money spent on it. I also need to over come the biggest hurdle and find someone that can machine down the mog shafts and re heat treat for me. However, assuming Ive welded everything together correctly and can finalise caliper brackets and drag link arm there isnt any reason they can’t be out towards the end of the year
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5 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
You diamond
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4 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
They’re the same thread as the propshaft bolts.
But without the splines to stop them rotating. It’s fine, there are ways around it even if I do tap out the housings and tack the bolts from The inside. I was just hoping someone might have some scrap axle casings they don’t need the studs for😂
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15 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
@dangerous doug if they're LR studs they're M16x1.5 and grade 10.9 I think, I ordered a set of bolts and cut the heads off in the lathe, they're loctited into the hubs (as were the old set) and never came loose.
Fridge, these are the diff studs that holds the diff to the axle case. Pretty sure they are a unf thread are sitting at about £7 each for only the stud. Is why I seriously considered tapping the housing but then decided against it
I am doing exactly what you suggest for the studs in the hub but those are m14x1.5 and held in with the red loctite.
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11 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
The pictures bring back nice memories of when I did mine, although I have to say my back is aching thinking about it......lol
Regards Stephen
When it came time to split my back twinged in protest and all I had done was pick up the 24mm spanners😂 that are not terrible but I wouldn’t want to do it too many more times…..shame that’s wishful thinking. I’ve had a brain fart and realise my steering won’t be a problem and think I’m going to adopt a steering arm like this
it's a shame they arnt made anymore
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2 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
That's looking fantastic @dangerous dougthat's
Regards Stephen
Cheers Stephen, don’t know about fantastic but it’s together….
i now see why you heated and violated your mog arms so much for the steering 😂
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Ok for some Reason my brand new phone doesn’t like uploading so I’ve sent to Ross and re downloaded them and now it’s good to go
drill set up with my tapping head and the tap chart my dad got me for Christmas, it’s really nice if you’re into that sort of thing then the link for them is https://geoffreycroker.com/en-gbp/I have the fraction conversion chart aswell, very handy and a nice addition to the space.
trying out the annular cutters, this I think is the best way to attack the overlapping holes that need sorted
diff in and axle back together, couldn’t get the hubs back on as I think they have shrunk a little after the welding so I’ll need to spend a little time polishing the inside of them
So as you do when friends are over you go through things and put the world to rights and we have come to the decision of “dont get it right, just get it done” so for the initial testing I’ll just use a standard set of diffs(with the rear welded of-course) this will give me an idea on how usable these are with a 3.54 ratio, if the 3.54 is strong enough then potentially the 2.88 is(maybe) or maybe I just have to deal with mog gearing and keep it on the safe side.
the other thing I realised is my efforts to keep everything as narrow as I could has basically made it so I can’t fit a drag link bracket to the knuckle with a 16” wheel….so I’m going to haveto sacrifice a bit of width to be able to steer….pretty good trade off really and it opens up a lot of wheel options.
@Bowie69 how many do you have? Let me know how much you want and postage and I’ll ping some money over to you
other serious threat that is being made is to convert to d2 radius arms, these have bigger bushes and a wider separation between them to the defender flavour one so a big plus for portals and they’re also longer and mount to the side of the chassis like my trailing arms which I like but this adds up on this list of jobs to be done!
thanks for reading…feel free to poke holes
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4 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
That looks to be about 6mm plate, you could drill it out to a larger diameter say 16/20 mm then weld a disc in, then re-drill the holes without the concerns of drilling through a hardened section of weld, also you could tap your original hole to a suitable size, screw a bolt in, flush it off both sides, drill it out and then weld the remaining piece of flushed bolt in and flatten off leaving the hole in the right place
regards Stephen
This is why I love this forum, there me over thinking something and someone comes in with a simpler neater way of doing it. I have just bought a set of annular cutters and the arbour to run them, which will cut the hole out nicely and then use the puck from a bigger cutter to fill in the blank💪
so diffs are flipped, and a few other things done but the photos arnt showing for some reason….all I’m seeing are black squares
seems to only be landscape ones, I’ve never had this issue before. once I’ve figured it out I’ll upload more but the front axle is almost fully assembled(minus shafts and brake calipers
….Friends being funny
if anyone can help me with a set of studs and nuts for the diffs I would really appreciate it. I would normally just buy new but they are enough to buy I considered tapping out the housing and just using bolts! It’s the principal I tells you!
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On it today, I do t normally do mid day posts but have a question for the masses. I’m Currently flipping the diffs, got a jig laser cut from a guy on the facebook and it’s spot on however 4 holes overlap. Am I better off welding these holes first or trying to drill half a hole out, weld it then put the drill through again. I’m not bothered about drilling weld but I am worried that the drill bit could deflect off into the softer material. Thoughts?
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Well it’s in and running. EBay VFD just about works and I managed to find a tapmatic 70x for ok money so as soon as everything’s together we’ll see some progress.
hubs are all tapped and I started cutting bolts down for studs so we’re getting there.
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1 minute ago, Stellaghost said:
Is that your workshop @dangerous doug, liking the shaping machine and the surface grinderon
Regards Stephen
Unfortunately it isn’t BUT those are both for sale aswel if your interested😂
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IIRC metric threads are “square” so they are as deep as they are wide. But I may be miss remembering
in other news, I have just purchased a new(to me) drill so tapping and other drill activities will be a lot easier and I don’t have to use/borrow other people’s stuff.
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3 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
That's very kind, I will pm you in a coup!e of weeks with my address if that's ok
Regards Stephen
Excellent, gives me time to find them😂
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49 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
@dangerous doug a while back you posted some pictures of ox levers, I'm liking the look of them for my diff locks, could you tell me where you got them please
Regards Stephen
They are a very simple thing. I’ll send you one up of you like and you can copy them
MOG LR hybrid axle build
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
I appreciate that mate. Dont feel like cutting the shape out aswel do you?😂