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dangerous doug
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Posts posted by dangerous doug
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21 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
I am quite happy to terminate the thread if you think that's the right thing to do.....
Regards Stephen
Don’t you dare? I’ve referenced it 3 times today to see what I can do about my **** up😂
also, it’s very easy for people who have never seen, let alone driven sid to say what should be done. If you think he needs to go on a diet then go for it, I don’t think anyone is disagreeing with you but some may find it odd you’ve come to the conclusion so early in the build. But weight saving is fairly inexpensive and it makes what power you have go that little further. Good place to start if you feel that’s what’s needed IMO.
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Just now, Stellaghost said:
What spec aluminium @dangerous doug to be honest I'm not overly bothered at the moment and certainly not in a rush, unless weigh bridge tells a different story. I would guess ultra 4 axles are a damn sight lighter than my mogs though. Lol
I possibly may have the only all aluminium bodied lightweight, well until you start yours that is ...
Regards Stephen
The axles may weigh more but I’m sure you won’t be launching sid like those guys do. I’ll ask him what grade when I see him, I know it’s fairly exotic as he hasto go tup north to get it and buy a certain amount in one go for the sale.
you’ll be waiting a while for mine to get done, we were at billing yesterday and there was talks of putting it on a D2 chassis😂
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@Stellaghost how much road is Sid going to see? I made a track rod out of aluminium at a friends, all the ultra4 cars have them and have aluminium trailing arms and they seem to do very well with them. You can shed a whole load of weight there. I think your lightweight must be one of the only actual lightweights out there with all the alli panel work it’s just the axles. I wouldn’t be too bothered though, Sid will still be lighter than the average 90 with all the carp that never gets used bolted to it👍
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5 minutes ago, hurbie said:
i don't get it , why is the inside not bolted down .... ? now you can still drive the tire off the rim ....
Often wondered that myself. I can only assume that the outside wall sees more load than the inside wall of the poop site tyre.
People run them and they work, but they can’t be 100% or there wouldn’t be a market for the split rims like daan or nige has
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9 hours ago, elbekko said:
Ah, couldn't really make it out from the pictures.
Probably not, but I have a separate set of road tyres and wheels anyway.
Found a installation vid, super snazzy!
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7 hours ago, elbekko said:
Those look interesting, and ok priced. How do you install these, cut off the existing outer bead and weld these on instead?
A certain incident at 7S may have prompted me to think about this
As another option, @Escape used to run air beadlocks. Like this:
https://www.innerairlock.com/beadlocks
I've also seen people use old motorcycle tyres for this. They're a faff to stuff into the wheel though.
Each ring comes in 3 pieces per wheel(total of 6 per wheel), you weld them straight on to the rim then fit the beadlock rings to the rim to ensure all the tabs lock together. It looks
a very nice system and they have allowed for water to drain out
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14 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Excellent news, see you there then!
Will the 109 portal bus be there? That would be a hell of a shoot out😂
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10 minutes ago, Daan said:
John Sales made these double bead locks for me to do Ladoga:
He essentially cut a 15" modular type wheel in half and welded the bolt rings in to create a split rim. A 16" PVC tube was used to clamp the beads together, and a large O ring meant for a manhole cover was used to seal the 2 halves. Very effective and cheap, I aired down to 2 PSI to drive the swamps.
I can design the bolt rings for you on CAD to get them water cut if you want me to.
Daan
Love this!
Is it an open offer to all?😂
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9 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
Just reading through this again ultimately, I think you've gone the better route than I did, axles will be lighter and you should have a bit more ground clearance as the rover diff case is smaller than the mog one, cannot wait to see these under your truck, however I would of really liked to see them under the lightweight more.........
Keep up the good work Doug
Regards Stephen
Stephen, it’s not better. Just different. Yes, they might be slightly lighter but yours will be stronger and use a lot of factory parts and easier to repair(if you need to repair). Everything is a compromise. We shall see in the end as we’re aiming for summer sister next year so if you’re there we’ll get an apples to oranges comparison and I honestly don’t think there will be much in it.
I have another set of axle cases that would be easier to narrow if you fancy starting over….just saying😂
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They are just a ring with holes in them mate. Some have a bead of their own for a bit more calming and others have a bit more steel on the back so they don’t deform when you do the bolts up.
did find these which are the most complex weld on ones I’ve seen and look pretty good
another way you could do it is to cut your wheels in half, weld a pare of bolt rings in and have a spacer tube in the middle to make a crude double beadlock
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The et+20 wolf will be banded which leaves me a bit of room between the knuckle and the rim
HTH
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16” wolf rim just clears the portal box and a comparison of calipers (defender front, D2 front and Wilwood. Wilwood offered up on the set up. Can’t comment on the 17s but you’ll get an additional 12mm of clearance
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6 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
What wheel tyre combination are you using Doug, any idea what your total width with tyres will be ?
Regards Stephen
I can’t quite remember numbers on everything but it’s looking like an additional 5” of overall width with a 9” wide wheel and 37x12.50 trep.
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How did you get on with the iroks Stephen? I’ve always liked those tyres!
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Next thing I’m a bit undecided about is which way to mount the brackets for the trailing arm mounts, if mounted the conventional way I’ll have to grind out most of the top to allow room for the gigglepin arms which I assume removes a fair bit of their strength but if mounted the other way it’ll just become a plow and fill up with crud. Unsure if it’s more efficient with the loadings one way or other either.
they’re getting pretty close though
everything is stitched together with a few inches of weld at the moment, until it’s all mocked up and I can be sure that I’ve done everything right I won’t commit to setting the welder to “war crimes” and making everything as permanent as possible……hope my decision to TIG everything won’t come back to haunt me
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On 6/19/2023 at 10:55 PM, Wytze said:
two thread's of mog porn on here. 🥰
Don’t know about porn, it just exists.
stephens on the other hand…..
anyway, I was sulking all weekend as I had to work Saturday and look after the other half who is faking back issues on Sunday(don’t tell her I said that or I will die😂) which ment no summer sisters and no time to work on the axles. So I’ve had to do what I can after work
Anyway
Cut up some metal for the a frame mount. Was in need of some washers/spacers for the inside of the mount(will be clear later) and after tearing the place apart looking for something suitable I had a brainwave…..off to my mate for the correct flavour hole saw and we now have what we need
welded it all together and after all the time and effort I made to weld it square and keep it square(it still tweaked abit in the end) I realised that I hadn’t taken the centre measurement properly and had to trim the mount a fair bit.
Toasty!
And tacked in place
So the spacers were necessary to allow full movement of the joint…why this wasn’t built into the joint itsself is beyond me but it’s done. I might chamfer the top of them a bit to make it easier to get it in and out for servicing
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I’m pretty sure søren had some nice tyres on his mog that had some side wall flex. Rather large though but maybe kill 2 birds with one stone if your still looking at gearing issues😂
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food for thought
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That is a hell of a result for a first time out and something that’s had so much work that’s never been done before with little testing. Top marks sir!
I think I did the gear ratios for you earlier in the thread(I’m not scrolling all the way back there😂), with your set up and a 1:1 box, your gearing will be approximately the same as a standard defender but a lower low ratio(obviously)
Re steering arms; I’ll dig out some photos of some high steer arms for you, they’re mostly for hydro but you can use the mog arms for the track rod and the high steer arm for the drag link as I plan to do….
if you fancy switching to the correct engine….I have a 4.6 short block here, some heads and a few other bits and pieces to make maybe 70% of the engine. yours if you want it in return for the flanges👍
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You make it home ok stephen?
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1 minute ago, Stellaghost said:
There is definitely some fine tuning to be done maybe something to do with 8 at some point in the future....
Regards Stephen
8 is the correct number😉
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Well that a new cover photo of ever I did see it!
I have to say though I think this is photoshopped! a guy told me yesterday that portals make your car fall over, catch on fire and sink up to the roof. This is clearly not happening so @Bowie69 post is clearly fake news😂
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Looks awesome! I’m gutted I couldn’t make it this weekend but patiently await photos
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Hot innit!
rear is set up, just need to do the tabs and could sling them under the truck to see if I’ve done anything right😂
I do hate These things…..I’m not even sure what you would call them, they take the place of the knuckles so Mercedes could make one axle case for the front and rear. But super ugly
and Ofcourse dragged out the rear portal boxes to see what things look like. Diddnt have enough time to remove the drums but you get the idea.
Also found a box of unused xcess4x4 axle trusses. Still undecided on it tbh.
Both front and rear will have some Sort of truss but I havnt decided on how yet. Top, bottom or front.
now I must go clean up as the other half is fuming at how dirty I’ve come home. If you don’t hear from me again I want you all to know it was her!😂
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MOG LR hybrid axle build
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Been quiet on the forum for the past few days so I’ll chip in with what I have
rear axle is nearly done and dare I say it….the front is all tacked together and ready to be dry fitted!
Rear mounts proved a little tricky as I dont have much in the way of reference for them and beeping them on the same plain was also a pain so I deployed the super stud:
1m long and 8 nuts kept everything square and gave me a reference point between them making everything a lot easier. Have 8.5” of separation between the top and bottom links
Also had a rummage in the tig consumables box as I’ve been looking at going up a tungsten size for a while. Found the bits I needed and gave it a try
fast run at 210A
Got some spring seats at billing. Not sure about these, I like the factory look but they don’t sit quite high enough for a spring seat so will require a spacer of the seat modding….. the rear seats just won’t fit, there is no way so I’m thinking about welding some box to the bottom of the seat and then welding said box straight to the axle. I know I’ve seen this done somewhere but not very well…..possibly one of straight forward supplies efforts (awaiting @FridgeFreezer to chime in on that as he hates them more than me😂)
Also got myself some new TREs with associated taps so the spindley lr TREs can go back in the draw where they belong. Problem is they are both right hand thread so they won’t have the adjustment they would normally have. Mercedes decided to swage one joint on their track rods and I’m not sure how they adjusted them.
Let me know your thoughts because I have no idea what I’m doing😂