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dangerous doug

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dangerous doug last won the day on March 8 2018

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About dangerous doug

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  1. I did have a very nice and expensive 3” clamp from lazerlamps but it was a pain in the arse when I had to take stuff off for service etc. So now it is held on by zip ties and gravity.....no issues yet
  2. I used silicone hoses from siliconehoses.co.uk exhaust bends from profusion on eBay and the pipe that goes from the box to the snorkel is some green heat proof plastic ducting also found on ebay.....expensive stuff for what it is not had any problems without a snorkel top yet but it’s not a daily
  3. I was under the impression all mog 404 diffs were 3.54(same as a landy). There were a few differences between early and late axles in reguards to the difflock but I thought that was as far as it went. It is possible that r&p from other models fit though... sorry to hear the diffs went missing, did they even make it over or were they lost in the Warehouse at Heathrow?
  4. There are kits on eBay for around £30. I’m told you need to use the gasket as they effect the preload on the bearings
  5. MOG final drive ratio after the portal reduction is 7.08 the 1:1 tcase is almost essential if it’s ever going to go some distance. Mogs with a 1:1 box and 37s is basically the same as a defender with a 1.6 box iirc been a while since I’ve done the numbers
  6. MOG final drive ratio after the portal reduction is 7.08 the 1:1 tcase is almost essential if it’s ever going to go some distance. Mogs with a 1:1 box and 37s is basically the same as a defender with a 1.6 box iirc been a while since I’ve done the numbers
  7. That is absolute nonsense. You bypass that and you’ll make it run like a turd
  8. You are right but the front lr axle is two identical Half’s welded together so if desirable you could weld on on the bottom aswell/instead
  9. A good question and one I will answer on Sunday! This axle is having the diff flipped in it so I made some bungs to go in each end and a bar that passes through the diff to aid in that. We will see if it all still fits and if it’s still straight. But that is another reason I wanted to use the tig as I don’t think it heats the sourounding material as much as an arc or mig while still delivering the penitration
  10. A while back while dropping some big bolts(m125) off to nigel we got to talking about strengthening an axle case for an up and coming build I have. The I mentioned the KAM Solutions (cds tube down the case and fill the void with resin) to wich nige rolled his eyes and groaned.....can’t really remember the exact wordings but to summarise he said “don’t” and lead me down to the shed where he had prototype no1 of his new axle truss. Big mistake nigel, I proceeded to become a royal pain in the arse asking when they will be done once or twice a month(atleast). Today they arrived. These are only a prototype batch sent out to around 20 people to “try” and report back on figment issues or anything else to be changed. Super light weight but also super strong as it is made from that domex stuff he makes the clutch fork braces out of. in other words double hard person I'm not that keen on steel! And only 3MM! so like I say, today they arrived......at 3 o clock and I had to leave to pick my daughter up at 4. Alot to do there....I’ll have a go! So this is what I came up with in just under an hour, not bragging about work speed or anything, it just illustrates how good the fit up is out of the box! Forgive the mess, still going through a tidy up start with a freshly blasted axle case offer up truss and draw around it to identify where where I need to grind off the primer I specifically asked to be left off! A few teeny tiney fitment issues that a tickle with the grinder sorted..... and to put that fitment to the test we got the tig out! basically ignored the instructions. Not because I know better but I wanted to see how this would all react(test donkey remember) and all seemed fine! so now you know @Hybrid_From_Hell you have to really mess up to ruin it! the main divergence from the instructions was I started the tacks in the middle and worked my way out. My thinking then was if something did warp and lift it would be easier to lose that in an end rather than the middle A few little problems cause by me going in guns blazing but nothing too bad. Be nice, I havnt picked up my tig for nearly a year so the welds arnt my best. all in all its a very nice thing, some minor fitment issues but that is probably down to my casing rather than the design of the truss. The only thing that that bugs me are those holes. They are very nice but I think the weight gained by it filling with thick mud will out weigh the lightness of speed holes. however there are drain holes in the bottom so I could be proven wrong. This case won’t see combat for a long time yet so others will have to find that out for me. And Although he says there isn’t a market for it I still think there needs to be a domex weld on diffpan to go with the trusses. those 6mm ones are heavy and it would finish it off just right. anyway, thought I would share. I think after the prototypes are all fitted there will be tweeks to the next batch to make them even better. and the best part is they are cheaper than a front and rear set than the kam/terrafirma counterpart! Feedback welcome Doug
  11. I’m glad you looked into this fridge, did the same mod you did and linked to Two ports together but it looks a bit carp and it’s more to get snagged up on like you say. A few few months ago on Facebook the “rover v8 engine appreciation” group were talking about it and apparently tvr blanked the ports from the factory. I diddnt want to act on the word of Facebook experts as I treat everyone on there like an idiot untill proven otherwise but now I’ve seen some more info in it Im off to get some blanking bungs!
  12. Thank you all for the replys! some really helpful info here. I like the point of a mag tray for spent rods, I could even fix that to the welder case! And a tube for the rods on a lanyard....could even put a magnet in the bottom of that tomstop them falling as easily. I was talking with a colleague about this today and he’s in agreement about welding structural things, as soon as something goes wrong I will be thrown to the lions, certification or not. I do t want that. Rope guards are normally a piece of bar covering the entrance/exit of a sheave or hoist drum, there only purpose it to stop the rope jumping off if it goes slack. Modification, including repare to a certificated piece of lifting gear is not allowed as it is essentially in a different configuration to how it was tested.
  13. Thanks for all the replys your overestimating what I will be doing. I WONT be doing anything structural. Even if they offer me the code, no! This will be for building up worn parts (sheaves, rollers etc) that can’t be changed on site and welding on brackets and rope guards Welding/repairing lifting equipment is illegal now. Steve, I havnt welded with flux for a very long time. Is it any different to gas shield? another for you, the day after I took this they put a bridge on floor 32 so you diddnt have to do the climb. Also emphasises the reason for small and light.....that thing was 163m when taken, It’s now 180something. Don’t want to pull anything too heavy up that!
  14. Right, so this happened yesterday... my firm are getting annoyed with hiring people to come in and weld on their cranes, as you can guess a welder willing to do that is a rare thing and one willing to drag a welder up 60m of tower is even rarer......and expensive! So they now want me to do it, which is fine. I’ve been told to pick a welder and they will buy it. I’ve never looked at site welders much so I need a little help. needs to be dual voltage able to weld thickish stuff (5mm) compact and most importantly, LIGHT! after a little mishap yesterday where the welder dropped a hot rod off the crane and tripped over his box of rods and nearly sent them down too, I’m leaning towards a flux-core mig.....chances are I’ll be on my own 90% of the time when doing anything so lightness is essential. I dont want to have to climb down the crane to get more rods. Also don’t want to take a whole box up there needlessly. anyone have any ideas? the dual voltage thing isn’t essential, if I’m up the crane I will be using 240supply and if I’m on the ground I can plug it into a transformer is there a way of getting a spool gun to work with an inverter type arc machine?
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