xychix
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Posts posted by xychix
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I've just put new bushes in my front left leaf (over to the right once this is fitted). However refitting the axle seem to have moved aprox 3cm? odd as it's on stands but possible.
Other cause might be that I have the sprint mounted the other way around.
Hence my question, do the leafs have a front and rear end or are they 'symmetric' ? -
On 5/8/2021 at 11:42 AM, steve b said:
The other variant worth mentioning is the 6 cylinder / 1 ton / Forward Control front brakes with wider 11" diameter shoes and drums with different wheel cylinders .
Don't junk the 10" parts as the back plates will be of use to others .
Steve
He says now.... I think i ditched my front backing plates after tripping over them a dozen times after my zeus front disk conversion....
Knowing that they where non replaceable I would have given them to a local collector here in france (as I intend to do with my 2.25di engine) -
On 2/26/2021 at 10:24 AM, Snagger said:
If it hasn’t fired in a while, it’ll be a little smokey until it settles back in - stale fuel and a little sludge or glazing in the fuel system to purge, likewise the oil system, and maybe a little light bore rusting to be polished off, rings being slightly sticky...
You will almost certainly have to tweak the pump settings, too, now that the turbo is gone; it would have been calibrated for more oxygen, so you will be running rich at elevated revs and high throttle settings. Good to see so much progress, though.
Covid didn't allow me to get here and work on this.
But now I have found some time:
- battery is in a cut open and cleaned out diesel tank under the driver seat (LHD)
- wires of disco starterlead to starter and from there to a 100A fuse, on the other end of that fuse the alternator and a thick lead that goes trough the firewall to do the rest.
- did find a permanent 12v to feed the fuel pump and connected the old starter relay wire.
+ it drives in and out of the garage itself, it charges!
- it does seem to run in temperature way to fast, it seems to over fuel, on throttle it tends to sort of back fire (small 2.25di exhaust might nog help), engine oil measures to high. At A certain point i had the feeling it was picking up speed from my throttle position and chose to cut fuel straight away.
Nevertheless, happy with the progress! It's been a while since it moved without the help of a tractor. -
First run, its smokey... yek, but it runs. Maybe the fuel pump has been tampered with while still in the disco...
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It is working! used the PAS belt.
Spanner of the series to the waterpump.
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working on it
already changed the alternator front plate, now cutting up a 40mm*80mm thick walled box section, drill holes and go look for
70mm m8 8.8 hi tensile bolts (2x)
130mm m8 8.8 hi tensile bolt (1x)
Hoping that thereafter the belt that was driving the PAS pump is a match.... (or maybe the belt from the series block) -
4 hours ago, Anderzander said:
It seems better packaged and neater all round to me. On my 80 it helps clear the exhaust, engine mount, and chassis rail.
Is this the spacer block with series mouning? (and rotated frontplate on 200tdi alternator? )
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My plan would basically look like this but with the alternator slightly more forward.
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3 hours ago, Snagger said:
Don’t forget that SIIIs, which probably form the bulk of Tdi conversions, have a heater unit on top of the left foot well, where SI and SII refits tend to put the air filter. That means the air filter typically gets installed to the front, and so more air piping will be there, especially if using 200 manifolds and turbo.
yes I'm without the turbo and LHD, the heater on the right bulkhead (but considering removing that and just looping the heater waterpipes from out to in in the block.
ok ok, I've got a 3mm walled box of 40*80 mm lying around. Will see if I can build a spacer with that. Hopefully can source proper length bolts somewhere near here. -
Engine is in for a first fitting.
Last main thing to sort out is the alternator. Given that I'd love to keep the disco alternator and not have PAS pump in place I'm looking for a way to get the pullys lined up and find a suitable belt.
When placing the alternator it lines up with the first pully on the crankshaft but as I need to have the waterpump inline as well I need the alternator to move forward 22 millimeter.
I've been reading on several solutions using a series mount and a alu carved block and rotating the frontplate of the alternator. But looking a the first picture I tried to imagine having the alternator in this position and just move it forward 22mm..
That would mean I need a few rings at thee front of the top mount and grind of a small piece of the back (the white tape in the second picture).
Now I've lost my confidence after seeing everyone using complex solutions while this seems so simple........ what have I missed? Must be something there? Don't belts that long exist?
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MagicMatt and others, these pumps are getting easier to source by the day!
Chinese Fake
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32961883627.html?src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=1706100219&albag=73428776544&trgt=539263010115&crea=nl32961883627&netw=u&device=c&albpg=539263010115&albpd=nl32961883627&gclid=Cj0KCQiAvbiBBhD-ARIsAGM48bysqr-4qPvmat46Tn6_rxj7h21-_B_sZum1fmbK4HgJ9G1W2WvvfvoaAmw2EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
New Original:
https://evshop.eu/en/vacuum-pumps/159-hella-up28.htmlElectrical contact between the UP28 and the ECU is made using a cable equipped with an engine compartment connector and attached to the vacuum pump. Over 17 million electric vacuum pumps have been produced since 1999.
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Well at the moment I made some steps, My 200di is mated to the series box and resting on it's engine supports. now I want to have the engine tick over and run before I'l invest in things like timingchain replacement and all the other bits and pieces.
Slowly but steady, but hey I'm not complaining. It's the first time I've seen and engine going out and in a car..... and I did it myself and alone using make shift tools!-
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Hahaha, a 'step out' to electric vs. ICE made totally sense in this topic. But debating the quality of Lead-Acid batteries might be double offtopic
(but you're welcome, slow thread anyhows).
Next week I hope to have time to make a few more baby steps
- 200tdi exhaust manifold needs to come off.
- brackets for the 2.25 exhaust manifold will be made
- hope to be able to remove flywheel housing in order to tet fit that to the box and drill needed holes.
If I get that far in the limited time I have I'm happy. -
I'll for sure go down the diesel route as you need to be a licensed car manufacturer to turn a car into an electric car in France.
It has been on my list though. -
On 9/7/2020 at 10:30 AM, Bigj66 said:
What does the vac pump do if you don’t have a servo? 🤔
For me it was only used to replace the vacuum flap in the 2.25 diesel air intake smothering the engine. (making it smoke more)
I was happy with that simple fix without understanding or diving in to more details around this topic
The 109 had a vacuum, the vacuum hurts the enginge, I build a simple better vacuum. (love electric solution opposed to vacuum pumps etc). I'd assume my 1979 Series III has a servo of it's own?
Ah, the error in communication: "are you running a servo as well?". Yes I do, no I didn't touch it at all so assume it's he original; Series III.
My apologies.
Just to be as complete as possible:QuoteI took my standard 109 SIII (which already had the vacuum butterfly removed and a hella up28 fitted by myself in the past)
Redid the rear drum brakes with all SIII 109 parts.
Fitted a front Zeus kit
Then figured out my rear brakes weren't braking enough (or too much, can't remember anymore) but 'guessed' I needed a master cylinder with another bias. Ended up with a delphi for a def 90.
Fitted it and was very happy with the results.-
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On 9/3/2020 at 1:01 PM, Cornish Rattler said:
Are you running a servo as well i've been told the series servo works but isn't as good as the defender one.
nope. Just master cyl and a hella UP28 electric vacuum pump connected to the brakelight switch
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I'm running a delphi master for a def 90 on my 109, balances out just nice.
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7 minutes ago, Anderzander said:
So I had 2 side by side when I did mine - both *fit and looked pretty much identical at first glance but their were differences.
I can’t remember the detail of the differences - but I chose to use the 200 inlet and I needed to grind a little around one or two of the flanges to clear the exhaust manifold.
cool that's what I needed. The 200tdi inlet CAN be used (with some grinding) in combination with a 300tdi exhaustmanifold and turbo.
That's my route for a 109 SIII LHD. Thanks-
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Does anyone knowif the 200tdi (disco) inlet manifold is the same as the 300tdi inlet manifold?
In that case I'd only need a 300tdi monifold,turbo and oil feed to have a setup that should work with existing exhaust kits like steveparkers -
On 7/24/2020 at 12:18 PM, Romahomepete said:
You could also bring a bucket load of the pierburg belt drive pumps from your local scrappy. They were standard fit on PSA cars in the 80s and 90s.
Peter
Nah then I'd advise to go the Hella UP28 route! easy and effective!
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30 minutes ago, Snagger said:
That green engine is almost certainly, but not quite definitely, a 2.5 of some description with a 12or 19J front cover but a 10J manifold. The injection pump lacks a boost diaphragm system, so it suggests the engine is a 12J with a few 10J parts.
The Tdi uses much higher injection pressure than the older diesels, so I doubt the injectors would react well if you did make a hybrid system, and you’d have to significantly alter the impulse and metering of the injection. I’m sure it could be made to work, but with more than just a little adjustment - I think you’d need some expensive custom parts for both pump and injectors, and the pipes linking them would have to be custom, too. It would definitely not be worth the trouble or expense!
Thanks, I was just curious as I was surprised by the image. This engine is NOT a part of my conversion!
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Found this on facebook, I'm confused.... 2.25? (given the manifolds and sensor placement) but a belt driven fuel pump???
or are we looking at a 2.5di?https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=10158532110798560&set=pcb.900672747083114
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7 hours ago, Gazzar said:
Have you read the guide by Richard Glencoyne?
Pay attention to the oil filter housing of you remove the oil cooler.
I kept the series filter, but you need to remove the thermostat in the oil filter if you're removing your oil cooler.
yes, I've red half of the internet. Time to hover the engine inplace, make my own plan and write it down.... just to make even more reading for the next....
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some pictures of the process so far:
out with the old, cutting up the disco to free the 200tdi and the 200tdi in full sunshine
already changed the alternator front plate, now cutting up a 40mm*80mm thick walled box section, drill holes and go look for
(but you're welcome, slow thread anyhows).
SIII 109, front leaf springs. Do the have a front and read end?
in Series Forum
Posted
haha, tried that but the bottom plate doen't really allow for a good measurement
Given the amount of knowledge here I was hoping someone would 'just know'.