xychix
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Posts posted by xychix
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In and outlet manifold and diesel pipes got off VERY easy. doubt if any of those was tighter than 30nm...
Question, is the butterfly valve in the inlet soly for brake vacuum or does it serve any other purpose?
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please don't tell me there's no need to go the extra mile 🤪
got everything I'm familiar with out of the way. All of this I've touched before (apart from radiotor but as the front already had lost 3 out of 4 bolts it was easy removed as a complete unit.
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Well YOLO,
Started tearing of the front wings, will try and get everything in the front in better shape. Might take 2 years
Keep u all posted! -
The only test I did regarding glowplugs is starting and forgetting to glow
which usually results in a nostarter when it's a tad colder
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Did not touch the pump at all. bet it's been in the current position for at-least the last 10 years.
Advancing the timing as in loosen 4 injector pipes (both sides) then loosen the 3 bolts holding the pump down, turning it a tad clockwise.
redo it all and drive it? -
@Bigj66 so first of would be to dump a load of injector cleaner in the fuel filter? and the rest of it in the tank? Or would that do no good to an old engine like this.
From what I hear from you is:- head off and refurbish that, as I'd expect the valves to be out of the head to replace valve stem oil seals....
- injector is a job from the outside I'd expect
- time chain + setting timing also isn't a light procedure.
Keep in mind the only engine I've pulled the head of in my life is a Hatz e79
(it did survive and still runs!)
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Well as @Neil110 said play with pump timing and @Romahomepete advides a new chain I'd rather get some better diagnosis before starting my first 'under the hood' job other than the easy (but i'm quite ok with electrics) hella up28 pump for vacuum.
I decided to use the corona lockdown (france) to get this party started. I'm now uploading a video that hopefully helps the pro's here to further diagnose the problem.
Ofcourse on film the smoke looks way less, but I can still smell the oil/diesel mixture as I'm typing this.
Please have a look at this:
I'll try and post back some video's on whatever work I'm going to do after this hoping it might help others.
If the conclusion is "This is quite normal" I'll have an issue at next MOT
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On 3/7/2020 at 10:47 AM, Dibbs1 said:
Is there a chance that I too could have a copy of your wiring diagram?
there's an assumption I made a wiring diagram....
let me check..
nope.
I'll dive in the car and draw one up.
In my car there is a switch behind brake pedal, that carries a positive lead and a switched positive lead to illuminate stop lights.I tapped into the switched positive lead (turns 12V when brake pedal is touched).
used this lead to activate a relay, offcourse the other leg of the relay steering part is to ground.
Now we have a steered relay with 2 open legs. 1 will be connected to a 30A fuse and then behind that to 12V+, either battery terminal or other strong + wire.
The other end of the relay is now switched positive (up to 30A), run that wire to the + of the hella pump and the - to earth.
Don't have a scanner at hand to draw this out. If I can find the energy tonight I'll find some online tool to make schematics.
For now I'll be making a short recording on my smoking diesel in order to ask the experts where to open up stuff (never opened any parts other than air filter in engine bay before, other topic on that later) -
10 years past, things have changed somewhat but I'm still not converting my Series III to electric for ±6K euro's
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well all, as can be seen from the last post I've been away for a while.
First of,. all my carp... as in EVERYTING to the last spanner, got stolen.By now I have my basics back together, only now we're running a retired Hatz E79 for a generator meaning I'm already covered in oil before touching the landy....
Hope to have a better gen before summer.Will be back at the site end of this month, will do a 4 days offroad trip with some friends but will take the Hilux for that
Hope to get the pump set better and will try and flush some injector cleaner trough. These seem the easy ones. Next up the list should likely be the timing chain. Is there a clear procedure on checking that for slack?
Pretty sure my pedal steers the full throttle of the pump. At 60 It's screaming so hard that even the cows run away.
Maybe compare Revs / KM;'s with someone just to make sure that the landy wasn't given shorter high gear box for the travels it's likely done in Africa? -
got it sorted, thanks. With this info I knew what to search for!
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Thanks lo-fi,
It's basically my own learning curve, these are the u-bolts that I placed myself 4 years ago
Meaning the 210 km's I drove in those 4 years were with a bad positioned axle. I'll try and get it in the right location and tighten it up, thanks for the insight.
they had me do:
- New u joints on front propshaft
- tightening of a nut in steering stuff
- replace 1 flexible brake hose
- the u-bults on left rear
And there is a pollution challenge as per other thread but I've found a way to get that sorted for my MOT (in france CT) and fix that in the upcoming 5 years. -
I've seem to have some play in between the rear leafpack and the axle, in that space lives a bracket protecting brakelines which now has play, which in turn is a MOT failure in France.
By lifting the car on the leaf, slackening the 4 bolts that are holding the leafs to the axle I see some 'nob' (might be a bolt head) in that space on top of the leafpack (might be the nut holding all leafs together)
- is that supposed to be there?
- is there a slot in the bottom of the axle that should give space for that 'nob', if so jiggling the axle back and forward should have it 'fall' in place.
don't feel like dismantling this all to see what it looks like, hoping someone already knows what this should look like -
Will sure keep u all posted. As I'm also having friends over, planning a week with the family, getting 7.5 m3 of beton for a terras and having to put a PU floor in my living room it might take a few weeks
again, tnx for all the knowledge!
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Just now, steve b said:
As Gazzar said no oil in the air filter and low oil level may help , I do think you will get the most difference from setting the pump timing .
It is highly unlikely it is correct given the age of the Land Rover . When it's right it should sound crisp but not loud diesel knock .( there is a proper procedure to do this detailed in the factory manual involving flywheel marks and removing the small steel cover on the side of the pump body to access the pump timing marks )
Do you have full throttle travel from the pedal to the pump arm ? 60kph is not fast enough even for a 2 1/4 diesel , one other thing , does it have the brake servo vacuum flap on the inlet manifold near the air intake hose ? If it does it needs to work properly as set wrong it can close the air intake at full throttle
cheers
Steve b
Thanks all for al this info, feel like a newbie again getting 'closer' to engine work.
Steve, the vacuum flap is tied on open position as I've installed a Hella UP28 electric vacuumpump to assist with braking. Works like a charm (more info on that in a previous post of mine here).
Timing is likely the thing, given even me (as newbie) has found and reset plenty of 'bad repairs' in all sections of this car. (will check the pedal movement first though as thats the easy bit). -
31 minutes ago, rtbarton said:
Does it smoke downhill on overrun?
yes, and quite a bit to my supprise. I expected no load = no smoke..
And (like with the test), when stationary and no gear. A smash on the pedal would easily paint your dog 100% black. -
2 minutes ago, rtbarton said:
You could always fit a modern engine
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mr_sam/
Seriously though, is the smoke black or blue? If it's black you're looking at the fuel system, loads of good advice above. If it's blue then you're looking at pistons, rings, bores valve guides.
I'm not a fan of magic potions but an oil additive may get you through the test.
in my opinion it's black, don't feel/smells like I'm burning engine oil. (have seen those driving around France and think I'd recognise that smell by now)
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1 hour ago, steve b said:
Do you have smoke when driving as it is ?
Check all the obvious - clean diesel filter , clean oil at correct level in the air filter , tappet clearances correct . Maybe some injector clean in the tank , not something I bother with but others certainly do .
Last but by no means least is the injector pump timing good ? the 2 1/4 diesel suffers from retarded timing due to wear in the skew gear that drives it from the camshaft , when bad enough it shows as blue smoke/haze when driving . To advance timing turn the pump body clockwise (loosen inj. pipes first) . Mark the original position first .
hope this is useful
Steve b
yep thats helpful. As i've had my hands on the chassis, bearings etc I have no other engine experience as to replace filters.
Should have feeler gauges around here somewhere. And how to to pump timing? just advance a little and see if there's less smoke?
Car always smokes, when up hill or high speed downhill I always hope noone is watching.... that's the worst.Top speed 60 kp/h at flat road only a mild smoke.
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In France there are regulations also demanding a 'pollution test' for all vehicles from 1980 and up. (Older vehicles aren't subjected to emission tests)
And yes my 1979 Series III was first put on a license plate in 1980 - February.
The measurement was so bad the machine failed, he clamped the sensor not in but just outside the exhaust and measured 1.5M (2.5M allowed for 1980+ diesel vehicles with no turbo)What can I do to drastically reduce the smoke out of my old n tired 2,25 di? Was really hoping to keep it on the road! Once this round is passed next CT would be in 5 years.
regards.
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keep on going.
I'm 5 years in (going for my first MOT in france, CT next thursday!)I managed to get the tub of, or basically everything behind the front seats and work on the back, before placing it back on with new wiring.
Managed to do a disc brake conversion.
When I make MOT there's front half electrics that need replacement even though I managed to get it all working and fused. And my engine is tired as @#$%^
And likely all new rubbers/bushings (on springs and steering and... all) would improve my ride. That's for the next 5 years
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-double posted, rotten 4G connection-
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well, with a fuel consumption of 1L per 5,6 km (16 UK MPG) I guess some more performance would have been nice.
Downhill it does go 70km/h revving its head of in 4th. -
Keep us posted on what you find. my 2.25 is smokey, drinks and tops out at 60 km/h (37,5 mph) in 4th gear (yes high range).
It's on my longlist -
2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Pretty sure the lights aren't fused, ask me how I found that out
100% sure the mainbeam and high isn't fused in my SIII 109" (1979)
not sure about brake lights.
according to this sceme number 62&63 are fused!
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which usually results in a nostarter when it's a tad colder
(it did survive and still runs!)
Fitting a up28 hella braka vacuum, a great succes!
in Series Forum
Posted
ues thats the one!, mine came without the bracket but that was an easy fix with some sheet metal.
mine is hovering above the dipstick to the other side of the panel where the vacuum tank lives.
Considering removing the vacuum tank an going on 'live' vacuum (unbuffered)