xychix
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Posts posted by xychix
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Think I found it.
One of the adusters would turn round and round without setting the pad.
After removal of the drum it appears that if the blocks 'lean' outside the aren't touched by the adjusters... Could that be the issue? Is there a way to ensure pads stay in place (or is that what the drum would / should do?) -
I have LWB rims lying around will measure the with.
Did that they are 17.2 cm outside to outside
the have stamped 5.5F 16 33 in them.
I clearly measured the wrong distance as that boils down to 6,77 inch -
12 hours ago, Red90 said:
Make sure the shoes are on the right way. It is easy to get them mixed up and then the adjusters do not work properly.
http://alre.club/Forum/index.php?topic=1253.msg8344#msg8344
The other possible problem is the pads backing off. That can happen with warped discs, or loose hub bearings.
They've not be n off over the last years. only thing that MIGHT have happened is that the drums from the front ended up on the back as I treated them all as equal.
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20 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
xychix - I think you mean electrolytic capacitors? The gauges don't need it, they react so slowly as the original regulator works by switching the voltage on/off every second or two (very slow).
in that case I'd go for a LM7810 for sure. some soldering, hotglue and a tape around the legs. piece of copper as heatsink to the back and mount to firewall
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Would need 2 elco's (consensators... if that is proper english) before and after is to flatten out ripples and a good mounting point with some cooling (alu + ground would be fine)
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The one from Lo-fi is likely a 7810 + 2 elco's.
the fixation point IS the ground so make sure it is mounted to a proper ground! Preferrably a ground that will also displace some heat.
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4 hours ago, Red90 said:
That normally means the drums are not adjusted properly.
I set all blocks against the drum (until I could hear mild grinding) and set them back a little. 2 adjusters per side.
I'll set all the bocks agains the drums to see if that takes up the slack. If so I'll set them a tiny tiny tad back and it should be done. -
Just drove ~5 ish km's and the brakes stayed at a nice 34 Celcius (*about the environment temperature at the moment).
Problem is I need 1,5 strokes to get proper brakes, once its proper it is more than adequate due to the front disks doing their job.
If I clamp the rear hose I get a solid pedal on ~0.5 stroke as it should be.
Did do proper 2 man bleeding on both ends closing the nipple while under pressure.
Either there's still some air in the lines or at another point where is't hard to get out.
Will check what MOT demands are here, if 2 strokes is allowed I'll get it trough my 5 year MOT first before messing with stuff.
Good thing is it doesn't run warm anymore so I can start driving again, which is better for moral and for the car. -
Can you do a bench check on this stabilizer? isn't is just a rotten ground wire with some resistance?
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Solid state would be a relais... don't think that would do any good (unless you have it pulse at a high speed to is spits out.... 10??? volts).
What is the spec on that?
An adjustable output voltage regulator would be my approach. Set it to the correct voltage (believe it was 10v) and seal it...
example https://www.banggood.com/DC-DC-Boost-Buck-Adjustable-Step-Up-Step-Down-Automatic-Converter-XL6009-Module-p-1087346.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CNSomething based on LM7810 would also be good enough if the max draw is ~1.5A (preferrably draw WAY less as the leftover is dispensated as heat).
example: https://www.ebay.com/p/10v-DC-Voltage-Regulator-Module-Board-Based-on-7810/918099164?iid=191225808693
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YEAH it drives, it doesn't bind and it brakes HARD in 2 strokes on the pedal.
I guess with some more bleeding and adjusting rear brake shoes it should stop in 1 stroke.
alterations away from original (regarding brakes):- seperated front and rear circuit (no faulty sensor in between)
- NRC9529 in stead of 109 master (no adapter plates)
- zeus front disc kit
- hella UP28 vacuum pump and tied open the butterfly valve in air intake (pump is from breakers, some volvo.. believe XC70) -
2 hours ago, Arjan said:
Sounds good - perhaps HerLadyship can help with the brakes ?
haha yeah she can, I've got a proper bleed kit only thing is to close the drain at the right moment (or pump the brakes).
We'll get that sorted. Even is the misses is doing her own stuff there's 2 little princesses around here that love to help!Decided to NOT go and do all electrics and also save the master / slave clutch cilinders for later. We need to drive! The rest can wait. Get my 5 year mot next year and then the next wave of improvements.
Did do some repairs on the electrical lines and pulled some hard shell hoses over the loom as parts of it where really crappy road side hacks...
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got the battery back in and wired my up28 vacuum. Brake pressure now feels nice, can still push it to the bottom on the first round but there's likely some air left as I did a quick bleed on my own.
Hopefully I'll have front wheels back on tomorrow so I can lift one rear wheel to check binding after braking. -
3 hours ago, Gazzar said:
Leave it for now? When I'm building up axles I'll report how I get on. Over on the slow lightweight thread.
Merci.
G.
for sure!
If i end up with non binding brakes that pass the french MOT (CT) I'm just fine.If it's cold, I'll grab the Hilux
If it's hot, I'll grab the Hilux
If it's far, I'll grab the Hilux
If it's heavy, I'll grab the Hilux
If it's important, I'll grab the Hilux
If I want to relax and enjoy, I'll take the 109 (I think)
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4 hours ago, Arjan said:
I have several Series Rims here you can try to see if the fit - and several rims I know will clear the ZEUS as I have them (ZEUS) on all 4 corners.
In that case we must have difference series rims
. my old rims didn't fit with the calipers at all...
I'm happy running wolves. -
1 hour ago, Snagger said:
I doubt it. The front brakes should always apply more braking than the rear, or you'll end up backwards in a ditch on slippery surfaces.
There are various types of Defender master. Do you have one of the earlier chunky silver ones for front discs and rear drums, or the later thin black steel ones for discs on all corners?
The earlier one.
NRC9529 mated to the series servo without further adjustments.running a pipe straight to the back (from the hole closest to servo) and running a pipe to a T-piece which splits to front wheels. (from the hole away of the servo)
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I've now bled my brakes with the new defender 90 master. I have pressure to about halfway (I believe this is mainly rear) en then the front gets pressurised and the pedal is hard quite fast then. (without any vacuum).
Is it correct that these defender 90 masters fist send a certain amount to the rear drums and only then start to really operate the front?
Al my flares (never did this before) seem to hold so far!
A spacers would have to be almost as thick as the outer hub (drive flange). Meaning the inner ring of the rim would have to be flat with the 6 bolts holding the drive flange on.
I'm afraid you'd loose more looks on that as you would on getting wolf rims...
If there is a good workshop day I might be able to make some wooden fillers to the point where I can measure the thickness of the spacer for it not to touch the caliper. At the moment it's 39c in the shade....... -
18 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
One cm. Bugger. I may have to re think the use of standard rims. I will try a spacer first, then go down the wolf route, I suppose.
Thank you for testing this for me. I appreciate it.
G.
If you're so persistent on sticking with the standard rims I'll make you some photo's later today. It sure isn't a trick of angle grinding a tiny bit off. You might make it with 2 cm spacers. I'll also measure the 'thread left' on the inside of the rim at the point where it touches.
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On 5/7/2018 at 6:17 PM, Gazzar said:
Out of curiosity, did you try a standard wheel on after the conversion? I'm curious as to how much it would foul by.
G.
it fools, big-time!
You'd have to grind ~1 cm of the back of the calliper to make it fit over which leaves essentially no calliper! -
Well most important for me is my new defender 90 master... I'll dig around on google images to find some more intel.
But if you're there anyways its always welkom.(which reminds me that someone asked how much an original rim would foul the zeus kit... thats an easy check right now to do for me)
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22 hours ago, Snagger said:
109 master has the servo end for the front brakes and the "front" end of the cylinder for the rear brakes. The lines normally cross over beneath the PDWA shuttle unit.
Thanks! that clarifies the 'bigger hole' on the servo side.
As I'm switching to an early defender 90 with the bigger hole further from the servo my current observation is that the 'bigger hole' is ment to pressurize the front brakes. -
32 minutes ago, Red90 said:
You do know, that you can buy the plastic reservoir on its own, right?
Front is farthest from the servo.
couldn't find them for the defender 90. Well past that point now
Once this is all up and running I hope I don't need those parts ever again 
Ah clear, front = front, rear = rear.
I believe it's the same on the 109 master. Reason for asking, on the 109 the 'rear' hole is a bigger size while on de defender 90 the front is a 12mm (10mm for the rear, or closest to the servo). -
ok the story continues
I've gotten my 90 defender master cylinder and 12mm an 10mm brake pipe fittings that should do the trick.
I've gotten my 2nd 90 defender master cylinder (cheap ass brand) just to salvage the plastic fluid container..... 👻🤕
I've got 10meters of 3/16" pipe (CuNiFer) 2 flare tools (the china one was 'lost' in transport but did arrive the day before we drove to our location where my series lives.)
mixed set of fittings (metric and imperial) ... thank god for that as I just discovered my new SIII 109 brake hoses to the rear axle are imperial (likely same for my 2 hoses to the front wheels)I've got 2 T-splitters so I can have a front and rear seperated circuit and get rid of the sensor / valve / whatever that's in between the cricuits.
I've also got my hands on a pressure reduction valve so I can dial down the pressure on the rear pipes if that would be needed (however I hope the defender 90 master will already differentiate for the front discs and rear drums).
only 1 question at the moment... which hole on the master cilinder for a defender 90 is for the front circuit and which is for the rear... -
18 hours ago, Bigj66 said:
How easy was the UP28 to fit? Thinking of getting an electric vacuum pump for my Capri.
piece of cake.
connected it to the rear light wired (so it runs when you hit the brakes) and folded a bracket from a piece of sheet metal.
pull the hose from the air inlet and connect it to the up28.
Then properly open the butterfly valve in the inlet and close the opening with a cap or something similar (i used a thick bolt and duct-tape for now)
. my old rims didn't fit with the calipers at all...
Rear drum brake binding after front disc conversion
in Series Forum
Posted · Edited by xychix
source: http://alre.club/Forum/index.php?topic=1253.msg8344#msg8344
shows that:
1: the springs run BEHIND the shoes and note on the outside of the shoes?
2: the top holes are used, my top spring is in the wider holes just below those..
I'll try and build it according to this...
Does anyone have a more detailed breakdown of the rear brakes?
There is a little pin (almost looks like a cut of nail to me) on both sides in between the cylinder and the pads.....
Digging more: it appears my front left pad is mounted on the front right... *(and hopefully the other way around or someone really messed up the parts on this one)
New lesson learned: these 'tabs' that lean against the wheel thet sets the blocks to the drum can be hit out with a hammer and set back in from the other side (the side with the ring seems a tad shorter and thereby more prone to missing the wheel that sets the block.
Fiddling now for a bit and getting the last spring hook in from behind the pad seems a nightmare!! ah and the start was easy because I had the lower spring mounted a hole lower... with the lower spring in the correct holes I can't get even both bottom ends on.....