RichardAllen

Luke, Can you post the solidworks files in the CAD archive ? Regards Richard

You could always clamp a bit of wood behind the hole you want to enlarge and use the type of hole saw which has a pilot drill in the centre. Regards Richard (Know nothing about plasmas)

Ordered a copy from RGS, arrived next day - simply awesome

David Bowyer suggested "WINCH" either as a decal (eg Mudstuff sheet) or dymo tape, but I was after a symbol. Mostly because if there is no symbol, perhaps there ought to be.

I want to use a spare warning light on my 90's dash to show when the winch isolation switch is closed and the winch is therefore powered up. I have not been able to find a winch symbol, even from such authorities as Google and David Bowyer. So is there anyone out there who knows of a standard winch symbol ? Or can anyone come up with something better than my pretty poor effort: All contributions welcome. Regards Richard

I just happen to need one of these connectors too. Have you got the Autosparks part number ? Regards Richard

In a moment of distressing stupidity, I refilled the transfer box up through a blanking plug near the top of the casing on the passenger side. So it had about 4 pints too much. It is now drained down to the proper level, using the square drive filler plug. Thanks all.

Western, Just in case I did put the right struff in, Mine gets hot as in I don't get burnt if I touch it, but it is too hot to keep your hand on. Does that sound too hot to you, or might it be normal working temperature ? (The problem is I never flet how hot it got before I did the oil change ) Regards Richard

I'm sure I filled it up correctly because I had to buy the TORX socket for the filler plug specially. I am also pretty sure I put EP90 in, but I was using a 1l MTF bottle, with a long tube, so could have put MTF or even engine oil in it in error. I'll probably just drain and refill. I assume that a hot transfer box is distinctly not normal. Regards Richard

I recently did all the oils on my 300TDi and after my regular 30 mile motorway run, I notice a distinct smell of hot oil. The transfer box is too hot to hold my hand on, bit I don't notice any performance change. The hot oil smell may just be because the transfer box is now full, I put in the wrong oil by mistake, it always ran hot, but I did not notice, I have a problem, other please specify. Any suggestions ? Regards Richard

I put in a 2kW Ring inverter. Fine 18months of regular use (incl hot air paint stripper for shrinkwrap) later. Regards Richard

I did this job recently following : http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6943 I can vouch that the trick for the crankshaft bolt of wedging a breaker bar + 27mm socket on the chassis, closing the bonnet, and turning the engine over on the starter motor worked fine. Twice. About half way down Les' thread is a pic of the removal tool in question. Les could not get me the dimensions quickly, so I used long M8 bolts, and a piece of bar 8mm thick by 50mm wide that I had handy. I did the job with the radiator out, so cut the bar about half as long again as the pulley diameter, drilled the first hole in the bar and bolted it to the pulley. I then eyed up where the second hole should go, marked it and drilled a hole either side of the mark and filed the holes out to make a slot. The second bolt went straight in with a wide thick washer and it worked a treat. Regards Richard

Great idea, parts ordered. Thanks.

I have a 2000W RING Inverter in my truck. The small on/off switch has a LED to show when it's switched on, but it is out of the way and I would like to wire it up to my dash which has several spare warning light slots. The inverter has a remote control accessory, which I could use, but I would rather just take a 12v lead out of the inverter and wire it up to a spare dash warning lamp. Does anyone know if this can easily be done ? Clearly I do not want to be accidentally wiring my truck up to a 240v output ! All help gratefully received Regards Richard

Rick, Unfortunately I've sent it back now. I did briefly try to take thye wheel off to look at the bearing, but it was very tight, probably Loctited and I did not want to put it into the vice with a breaker bar, lnowing I was going to send it back anyway. I did woner if maybe they were using self-aligning bearings, but I looked on the SKF site, and this seemed to be more runout than you would expect from their standard range stuff. However, I am no bearing expert so may have missed something easily. Regards Richard

I was wondering about a previous owner, but he put no other mod's on the truck, and the connectors have black sleeving just like the LR ones on the heated rear screen warning lamp. So it looks genuine LR. I don't have any switch on the seat belts, or handbrake, and the wires through the back of the console are a b*****d to follow, so who knows ?. If I find out tomorrow I'll post it up for what it's worth.

Rick, Thanks, measured by eye against a ruler the 'runout' was over 0.5mm. Unfortunately I needed to return it and did not get my dial gauge on to do an accurate reading. However, there is much less play in the old one, so I am going to try graphite lubrication on the new belt. Regards Richard

My 1997 90 CSW has the warning lamp on the far left of the panel wired up with one green and one orange wire. It is the stand alone lamp not part of the multi connector. I have never seen it come on, it appears to have no symbol and I cannot find it on the circuit diagrams on my Rave. Has anyone any idea what it is connected to and what it is for ? All help gratefullly accepted. Regards Richard

Thanks for that Reiny. Julian, the brilliant pasrts man at my local dealership in Cheltenham fished a Land Rove roriginal out for me and reckoned there was no noticeable play in it. I hope to take mine up to compare sometime this weekend. In the meantime paddcoks have offered a refund, but confirmed 'we sell 100's and they are all like that. Hopefully I can get it to my workshop, put a dial gauge on it and measure the 'runout'. In the meantime, I have always found Les Henson's advice to be top notch, so the wobbly one is definitely not going into the vehicle.

The two wading plugs should not normally be fitted, see Owner's Handbook under "Wading", and you should find them in your toolkit. Regards Richard

Frankly, this wheel wobbles. It is not just sligthly feelable, my 2 tear old would notice it. Not good on a brand new OE part. I'll see what Paddocks say in the morning. Thanks for all the help.

There are loads of suppliers who get original equipment parts at lots less than the local stealership. I like Brit-car, which is easy to navugate if you have an electronic parts catralogue, also Rimmer Brothers. A lot of people use Paddocks, but I have had some duff stuff from them recently. As long as you go for original equipment OE, and not copies (Britpart rarely get good rpess on here) you should be OK and save £££'s. A tip lookiong underneath: you may find under the front of your truck you have a engine undertray. It has a useful little hatch with 5 bolts which allows you to get a ratchet just behind the radiator/fan and onto the crankshaft bolt for turning the engine over. It took me a while to spot it as it was covered in oil/dirt etc. Regards Richard

There are loads oif posts on here about this. I use a bluetooth GPS mouse, TC1100 tablet running GPSgate which lets me run Memory-Map (OS 25k) for off-road and PC Navigator (similar to TomTom) on-road. The tablet also has a keyboard for use as a normal laptop and has the RAVE manuals and LR parts catalogue on it. Also used for photograph backups etc etc Regards Richard

Bolt won't shift and as it's brand new I don't want to put a breaker bar on it. It feels very wrong to have so much play, so back it goes tomorrow. Thanks for the help Richard

I looked through several split charge options described on here, diodes, relays etc and then found this: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=16524 I bought a VSR and an Odyssey battery for winch, 2000W inverter, camping kit etc. It has worked just fine over the last year and a bit. Regards Richard