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Sigh, going to look into doing a new one from scratch I guess... but since the Tomcat is going to be stock height suspension I won't need to do the D2 one for now.. It sure solves a lot of issues.

Damn I really want a C304 camper now.

Yikes, I'm aiming for 1300 or so fully dressed.

Does anyone know of a good comprehensive TD6 information site? We don't have them over here (Canada) but I'm strongly considering one for the Tomcat I'm currently building, I just have a few questions such as... does the ECU+engine harness get me ODBII (to clear the enviro-check here post 1998 you must have working ODB)... etc... Looking at the 3L as they appear fairly common and inexpensive used.

Anyone know if there are more affordable aftermarket steel belts for the BW TC available? So far the Ashcroft one is the best deal I've seen and it is still pretty pricey.

No kidding, it has me thinking that I should just put the blown 300 into the challenge truck and buy a used TD6 for the Tomcat.

Hrm; ok so TD6 for 1299 or that kit for almost as much...

Anyone made any progress in finding a modern 6-speed? I'm not putting it in a Defender but more of an off-road sports-car so close ratio and smooth shifting would really be nice.

Yes, however I do have some idea of what I'm doing. This engine will have a 4000rpm limiter, and be running in the 190-220hp range. Close ratio is what i'm looking for, final drive ratio will eventually be corrected with R&P swaps. I'm also running the D2 suspension set-up (more or less) at stock height and only running 33-34" OD tires.

So, pounding on it to get it out seems to way.

Yes, I understand that. However in this vehicle having one that is smooth shifting and hopefully a modern 6-speed would be preferable. Something where clutching to shift isn't absolutely needed for example.

OK, so the modification itself turns out to be trivial. However I'm having some issues getting the short top steering column out of the housing. I've got the clip out, but am a bit reluctant to just pound on the U-joint directly... is there some trick to getting it out?

Has anyone done a modification to get the full range of tilt available on a Disco2 steering column? There are a lot more teeth on the tilt lock than can be engaged with the factory set-up with what 1 degree of tilt? Why did they even bother except to be able to claim 'tilt steering'. I'm using the column in a Tomcat, so want to be able to actually get enough room to get in and out without needing a disconnect on the wheel.

Actually, not all 4 bolt are the same. The pattern seems to be the same but the D2 box output shaft is significantly larger than the earlier ones.

For some reason I wrote ISO when I meant SAE bellhousing; which I presume since it is a standard it should take a lot more transmission options. I just don't have much experience with which might fit. Presumably I could also just make an adapter plate too, and another for the TC mounting which is fine.. but which transmissions would be suitable in general?

Does anyone know what my transmission options are with a 300TDI? I know the HS2.8 has an 'ISO' bellhousing, any idea if the clutch housing on that will fit a 300 block? I'm going to be running a 300 with a BW and am looking for a smooth shifting transmission that will be more car-like than tractor like... you know, with working shift gates.. Being a bit stronger than an R380 would also be good, looking at something solid and able to handle say 200hp/300ft-lb though with a vehicle that is about 1200lbs lighter than a 90....

I'm wondering if anyone has specialised knowledge about steering arm spline patterns/sized etc? I have not been able to find much by searching, at least when it comes to Rovers. For most other 'trucks' a variety of drop arms are available to compensate for lifts and to correct the panhard to steering rod geometry issue that ensues. Specifically, does anyone know if the shaft/spline is a standard of some sort that would make it easy to just grab a modified arm intended for another vehicle for increased drop? If not, any other suggestions? If it matters in this case it is a D2 steering box.

and I am using D2 axles on a Tomcat.

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTSypcJlMLlvwjcVVaVRLxZzvfSlYt3tXl0PifuCG0DOcbcJqwmJw Like that.

Yep, totally. I am able to do it in a Defender too just by removing the tops of the shifter housing and using long bolts so within the space a Tomcat cage gives me it should not even require tilting things down and since I will already need custom props I could even look at putting in enough spline to allow it to be done with both in-situ which would be really cool. This particular build is my new DD, but the experimental stuff is hopefully going to make it into a Dakar Desert Warrior build in a couple years.

I am working on a RallyRAID type build and was wondering if anyone knows of any work done to make transmission / clutch service easier. What I was thinking was mounting the transmission and transfer case similar to how the 300tdi does it, but then build a mount that allows you to remove the lower bolts and then using a screw mechanism separate the transmission from the engine while keeping things aligned. I am thinking short-bellhousing R380 to gain the needed space while still allowing the engine to be mounted enough rear of the stock location to allow the front winch to be flush with a flat front bumper. Basically to allow quick clutch and component swaps when needed, and also provide a flat platform for removing the whole unit when needed more safely and quickly. Any other quick service ideas would be great. I am already looking at putting the panels on using flush dzeus fasteners.

Nothing? Would there be interest in castor correction kingpin bushings then? Not sure how many degrees of correction we can fit, but I am guessing 3 to 5 degrees. It would surely beat having to cut and weld.

Has anyone here done kingpin bushings that allow the castor/camber to be adjusted on the Disco 2 kingpin swivels yet? It seems to be a common approach on other kingpin axles and doesn't seem like a hard to fab part.

Has anyone here done kingpin bushings that allow the castor/camber to be adjusted on the Disco 2 kingpin swivels yet? It seems to be a common approach on other kingpin axles and doesn't seem like a hard to fab part.

Sigh, well that sucks.. guess I have to pull it, machine a delrin ring to replace the rubber one and weld on a better vent... thanks.