ajh

Well, the new doors are indeed 'better' and will fit fine. As you've seen they're fairly expensive compared to repairing the old ones so it depends on what your use of the vehicle is really. Here in Canada Defenders are so rare I want my first 110 to be 'perfect' so I'm going to lengths that in the UK would be seen as pretty nuts but I am limited to buying vehicles 15 years old or older. 99% of the time if the frame is in decent shape, repair and re-skinning with the new galvanized steel skins will be the right choice. So, anyone out there who hasn't properly rust-proofed inside their doors go do it now... other than this my 1992 was in decent shape, by 15 year old standards and the doors are by far the most expensive to replace.

The best one would be a Mechlok on the clutch (or brake but read their site on the legality of this), a battery disconnect switch (or two) , and something like the Overland Hardware locks and hasps for when you're away from the vehicle. Sadly the first two don't discourage someone breaking into the vehicle, just prevent it from leaving once they do. The locks are obvious and might discourage someone and the Overland Hardware design isn't going to catch on things and looks stylish vs the other ones you'll see out there.

Got a link? The ones I've seen so far in that price range have been aluminum doors and not galvanized steel. From what they have listed on their main site that seems a lot lower, they've got lift up handle doors for 300 and 600 (not sure why left and right are different, but who knows). I wish I'd known how bad the doors really were while I was there, I'm not opposed to a repaired door with a fresh skin either but searching for parts from here has been a bit of a pain.

Only a couple problems with that, on the 2 2nd row doors the frames were basically gone, enough left to keep shape and only the window-frame was intact, the others were better and possibly worth fixing but I'm in Ottawa, so shipping is a bit of a pain and the final result is for a show vehicle so they need to be perfect (it is also a working Expedition vehicle) and a daily driver with salted roads, etc, so the complete doors for about 300 each plus shipping (oddly from Florida) from the 2007 model rev, are a better deal even cost wise. I could ship over a new set from the UK with my chassis leaving in about 2 months, but it means finding some complete since all the internals change too so what I can save from these isn't much use.

True, but a source of new-take-offs would be better, I found one in the US but shipping adds another $300 or so to the $1200USD per set (and he only has front doors right now). Still those are complete and much better than the dealer cost on everything.

I'm wondering if anyone has suggestions on how to find a set of new complete doors, 2007 or newer for a 5-door CSW. All the OEM doors are still the old-style with alu on steel and I'd like to avoid the new doors having the same fate as the old ones. I have a container leaving the UK in about 2 months so have until then to find some.

Well, all things considered you could nail a dead rabbit to a Defender dash and it would be more attractive than before so I'm all for people trying out things... though wood, won't it rot with all the water dripping down onto it?

I'm partial to these, but the new galvanized skin doors are also pretty appealing considering what the ones on the 110 looked like when I pulled them off and opened them up.... Any good places to get complete doors at a reasonable price? The way things are going it is looking like just the chassis and doors are going to easily exceed the purchase price of the vehicle.

One thing I found odd is how the front doors and the 2nd row doors are built differently. I do like the idea though, guess I just need to commit to it one way or the other.

I would like to hear opinions on which would be a better choice, Series III doors or late model Defender doors if one has to replace all 4 side doors, and why you think so?

Do your brakes actually do anything or just glow red and smoke?

Have you fitted a swing-away tire carrier yet? Some of them come with hi-lift jack mounts integrated and I think this is the way I'm going to go with it, but having a way to keep it dry and clean will be a priority too since here there's always snow, ice, and salt to worry about. I agree that carrying it inside would be nice but I've got other plans for interior space.

If you do this, add some large diameter vent tubes up to somewhere dry and the drains at low points. There's a fair volume of air inside a chassis and no matter what you do you won't get all the holes so heating/cooling will suck moist air in and this will give it an 'easier' path in and out. I'd also do the waxoyl on the inside as this will help block any pinholes and help ensure the 'breathing' happens from the dry area instead.

Uhm, please don't do that. You need to figure out what the maximum current draw is for the device, what the wire length from the battery to the device is, and then install wire directly using a suitable rated relay and switch to control power to it. There will be some math involved, ask a friendly electrical engineer to help you, you may be surprised to find out how thick you need to go and I suspect fixing the original problem would be a better and easier solution.q

Usually the people who say they don't notice have fitted significantly over-sized tires so they get roll just from the tires flexing like mad. I'm a big believer in anti-rollbars (and quick disconnects) but also acknowledge that most of the ones fitted are too soft as well and the fact they're not tunable (well some are but none for Land Rovers I've seen yet) makes it hard to balance them with the spring/shock stiffness. It seems people just assume they should handle poorly and accept it.

While probably the hardest to find website these guys make the ones you want. http://www.overlandhardware.com/protect.html Yes, they're more expensive but they do look good.

The two tricks would be to brace between the footwells by bolting a bar from sill to sill and to make sure that they do not quench cool the finished product, taking a hot bulkhead and dunking it into a cold liquid is going to cause problems, if you let it air-cool there is significantly less chance of warping.

All good information, anyone know where the best Defender bolt-list would be? I"m re-doing my 110 and will be using things like bonded washers (rubber on stainless) and nylon collared washers (to separate alu and ss from whatever they're bolted to, etc) and it would be nice to have a list so I can order in bulk at least roughly... not that I don't plan on doing a 90 and a 101 later

Is there a consensus on a good detailed Defender restoration manual or general one that addresses the kinds of issues one is likely to encounter during the process? In my case it is a 1992 200tdi 110 and I am more concerned about the non-mechanical aspects like dissassembly/panel repair/known issues etc. I know a lot can be found generally by forum combing but I was hoping for something coherent on dead tree that I can just go cover to cover with. P.S. Any other good on/off road vehicle fabrication/engineering books out there? Or even other recommended reading? Already read the RAVE for my D2 cover to cover but there isn't one for the 92, not that it will matter once it has the changes planned. Much appreciated

A common thing to use as bedliner spray, it may not be the cheapest but gives a nice finish and lasts forever.

I managed to whip something up using some off the shelf air fittings, an adapter in the 1/4in air-fitting and some jb weld with the original exhaust (minus screen) works fine and cost about $10.