boaterboy

A great link and tips, bear. Very many thanks. Much appreciated

Thank you for your input, as well, Escape. Is any harm going to come to the engine should I use the car with faulty injector washers? I cannot do the job myself and it could be sometime until I can get someone to do the job for me.

Thank you so much for your very speedy reply, bear. Please can you explain the purge cycle? How will I identify it?

My vehicle has always started immediately. Until, the other day when it took several seconds (approx 30) / tries (approx 4) on the key to start following which it ran perfectly. This morning I turned the ignition key, left it for a few seconds before starting and it started perfectly. I have been told that somewhere in the fuel line is a valve which can fail allowing fuel to backflow into the tank and drain the system thereby meaning it takes time for the system to refill. Is this correct, please? If so, please could somebody give me the best way forward? Can the valve be replaced? Does it mean a new pump? Can I rely on the vehicle starting after leaving the ignition switched on for a few seconds? I understand it's an electric fuel pump which may be ok even if the valve has failed? I am grateful for any help given.

Thank you Nonimouse and bear for your most speedy & comprehensive replies. Very much appreciated.

Does one pump in the reservoir serve to wash the headlamps & the two screens, please? Or, are there two pumps?

Thank you Maverik and Chicken Drumstick for your considered replies They have given me somewhere to start and I appreciated your taking the time.

Bump??

I would really appreciate some advice on how to establish the reasonable value of my Discovery 2. A 2002 7-seater, I have owned it from new, 123k miles, never off-roaded. I have a full service history, oil & filter changes every year, the body & chassis are in good condition, the latter being professionally cleaned & undersealed (not Waxoyl) about 7 years ago, excellent tyres. It has a 12 month MoT with two minor defects & and a number of advisories shown. The headlining has sagged in a couple of places and it requires a new a/c compressor. I imagine it would suit an enthusiast who has the time & faciities and could turn it into a first class vehicle. Any thoughts and advice would be appreciated.

Apologies. I wasn''t trying to be clever. I thought that perhaps the code [8.4.1 (a)(i)] was taken from a LR manual and identified exactly where the leak was. It seems that is not the case. Thank you all for taking the time to reply to my uninformed question, I will ask the MoT station as Anderzander suggests.

I don't know where it is to take / post a photo!

The MoT certificate for my TD5 Series 2 Discovery shows an Advisory - Oil leak, but not excessive [8.4.1 (a) (i)] Please could somebody identify where the leak is for me, please? Thank you, in anticipation.

I haven't done any work on the system but for a period there was a distinct hiss immediately on moving the steering wheel from one side to the other. The noise sounded like air being forced through an orifice in a valve (say). I suppose for air one could read fluid?

Bear - the PAS fluid level is ok and the fluid looks to be 'churning' around the reservoir. When I saw this happening I was a bit concerned but since your comment I take it that this is an indication that the fluid is circulating and all is in order? The fluid is pretty hot when felt through the reservoir wall - I assume this is in order? elbekko - no the power steering feels as normal. Very oddly, the hissing has now disappeared. It was there for the duration of a trip of about 5 miles and then it went away. I did try moving the steering wheel from one extreme to the other in an attempt to remove the hiss. Is it possible for air to have got into the system somewhere and was being forced through a valve in the system? I'm sorry but I don't know the exact configuration of the hydraulic system to know whether or not that last comment makes sense. Many thanks to you both for taking the time to reply. I appreciated it.

When I move the steering wheel from side to side I can hear a 'hiss' at each change of direction. It occurs when the vehicle is stationary and when in motion. Please could somebody help me understand what might be the cause and how to remove it? The noise has only started very recently. Thank you for any help in anticipation.

Very many thanks for your most informative follow-up, Pawl12. Very much appreciated.

First of all, Pawl12, I would like to apologise for my very late reply to your most considered answer to my question. I have been without a means of communication for a while. My TD5 is a 52 plate which, I suppose, is at the middle of the Disco2 series production run. The exhaust system definitely has three boxes, from what you say the front one will be a cat. I'll try and make a few enquiries wrt the likelihood of the vehicle failing an MoT due to a switch from three to two boxes, ie omittng the cat. Do you know how significant the cat is in reducing emissions? I will aim for two boxes, if legal, in order to reduce the cost and then go for one of the better material combinations that you outline. Thank you so much for your most comprehensive reply, I really appreciated it.

Please could I have some help regarding the replacement of the exhaust system on my TD5 Discovery. I see ones advertised made in stainless steel and others in mild steel. I assume those in stainless would last longer but is the additional cost justified? How long would each be expected to last? Is there any variation in supplier quality when considering each material? Also, the one currently fitted to my vehicle has 3 boxes. I guess the first one (nearest the engine) is a catalytic converter? However, I've seen systems advertised which only have 2 boxes. Is it the catalytic converter which has been omitted? And, if so, is it legal to replace the 3 box system with a 2 box one? Sorry for so many questions, but I'll be extremely grateful for some help in understanding the pluses & minuses of the options.

Thank you so much for your most considered reply to my query, Blanco. I really appreciate your taking the time for such a thorough response.

The maintenance check sheet that I refer to calls for 'Flush diesel intercooler element' every 48k miles. What is this, please? How is it carried out, please? Thank you for your help, in anticipation.

Thank you for your thoughts, missingsid. I could stuff something between the silencer box & the chassis in order to test the theory but I am concerned that the silencer box will get hot and could pose a fire risk?

In spite of your advice Blanco I still can't trace the source of the knock. However (and please don't think this a daft thought!), could it be as simple as the silencer system knocking against the chassis? My thinking is as follows - 2mm gap between the front box & the nearside of chassis, silencer system mounted on rubber hangers, silencer system fairly weighty, vehicle goes round fairly tight RH bend at low speed, engine vibrates / rocks on mountings, centrifugal force throws silencer system to the nearside - which causes front silencer box to knock on chassis. The knock is neither there on LH bends nor straight ahead at any reasonable speed - although some trace (very occasionally) whilst moving away at low revs - latter caused by engine movement on mounts? I can certainly produce a similar sounding knock by pushing / kicking the silencer box against the chassis. I've tried adjusting / moving the system hangers without success. Maybe the rubber hangers have gone 'soft' resulting in excess movement? I don't know how to keep the silencer box away from the chassis to test my theory - the silencer box will get too hot, I guess, for me to stuff anything between the box & chassis. Has anyone experienced the above, please?

Thank you so much, Blanco, for your most comprehensive reply. I really appreciated it.

Thank you for your reply, Blanco. With a worn CV on one side would not the effect/noise be felt on turning in the opposite direction, too? And, to some degree when going straight ahead? Finally, (sorry, for yet another question!) can wear in a CV be readily felt by jacking the car up (say)?

I'd be grateful for any thoughts on the reason for the subject problem. It occurs only when turning right and mostly on fairly tight turns and at low speed, eg roundabouts. The noise can be 'felt' in the cabin and it appears to come from the centre to rear of the vehicle. Thank you for any help given.