boaterboy

Apologies for asking what might seem like a 'nothing' question. I've dismantled the headlamp washer system. Included in the system is a 'Y' coupling, ie 1 pipe on one side and 2 on the other. I know the single pipe goes to one of the headlamp jets but I can't establish which of the others is connected to (i) the washer bottle/pump and (ii) the other jet. The 'Y' coupling would seem to incorporate a valve because I can't blow through it. Any help would be appreciated, I don't want to assemble the whole thing and then find the washers don't work. Incidentally, I can't find any reference to the pipe layout in the Discovery manual.

The insides of my headlamps (the assembly containing two reflectors, a direction indicator and a sidelight) have condensation and are looking dirty. Is it possible to remove the outer (plastic?) covering/shield from the reflectors, etc. in order to cleaning the inside and reseal? Any help would be very much appreciated. Thank you.

Thank you, Shackleton, for your most speedy and very useful reply. I appreciated it.

I have to admit that I have only recently seen reference to a fuel sedimentor in relation to my TD5. Is it a fuel filter? What attention does it need, please? And, at what frequency?

Removed the rear bumper according to your instructions, dave88sw. Exactly as you said, very straightforward. Very many thanks.

Yes, knowledgeable folks on the forum kept referring to a switch in the clutch hydraulic system, either on the master cylinder or the hydraulic pipe itself. I couldn't find a switch and then I came across a plug on a cable, taped up and nicely tucked away out of sight..................

That's very reassuring, dave88sw, and I thank you for your most speedy reply. I'll tackle the job over the next couple of days.

I'm planning to have my vehicle undersealed. To ensure as thorough a job as possible is done I'd like to remove the front and rear bumpers to expose a maximum amount of chassis. I've removed the front bumper on a number of occasions without difficulty. Any tips, please, with regard to removing the rear bumper. Degree of difficulty, are all the fixings readily accessible, are the lights (fog, reversing) easily removed, can I legally drive without the fog lights connected, etc., etc.? All contributions gratefully received. Thank you in anticipation.

The cruise control on my Discovery 2 TD5 ceased working - and, at the same time, the rev die-back on changing up from reasonably high revs in the lower gears ceased. It transpired that on changing the clutch master cylinder the main dealer had omitted to replace the switch on the master cylinder (and taped up the end of the connecting cable, for good measure) which resulted in the cruise control not working (the switch immobilises the cruise control when the clutch pedal is depressed) and the revs did not die back because the switch operates a fuel cut-off which reduces the revs on an upward change. It was only a lot of research on this forum which enabled me to go back to the dealer myself with the solution and avoid paying him £800 for the supply and fitting of a new engine ECU - which he had diagnosed as the solution rather than it being a fault caused by the serious omission on the part of his mechanic. So, in short, have a look at the clutch master cylinder switch and connection.

I experienced exactly the same symptoms. Fortunately, it wasn't a rodent that was the source. It was a rectangular piece of foam rubber that appears to have fallen off a vent flap. Judging by the 'clunk' whenever the fan is switched off the foam also acted as a damper on the flap.

......and your question is?

Hello CW, I reconnected the rev counter / hourmeter (V-P Siemens VDO) yesterday - but no joy. I'll dismantle the instrument again and try and test the ribbon cable in the manner you suggest, Meanwhile, I've also put a post on a marine forum. I'll keep you posted!

Hello, again, CwazyWabbit & Western, I've now removed the tachometer/hourmeter and dismantled it. A couple of points to augment the pdf instructions for anyone else doing the same, mine is without the larger, black, outer ring shown in the initial pdf photographs. The plastic lens is held in position by means of a soft plastic ring featuring circumferential 'sealing' rings. Working round the edge of the lens, I gradually eased the lens out using a sharp blade taking care not to allow it to slip. The two threaded, brass studs have to be removed (I used a pair of long nosed pliers because I didn't have a box spanner small enough) which frees up the inner workings within the outer case and they can then be removed through the front of the case. Resist trying to push the lens out using the inner workings by removing the brass studs first as this could lead to damaging the instrument needle. I discovered that the three screws to which you refer, CW, hold the inner workings together. Having removed the outer casing of the instrument, as far as I could see there is absolutely no corrosion of any sort - everything looks like new, including the ribbon cable. Of course, I've no means of checking the internal condition of any of the components. I did carefully remove the end of the ribbon cable from the white plastic connecting block using a pair of long nosed pliers - having first eased out the very small clamping plate which holds the cable in position in the block (there is a snap fixing at each end). I cleaned up the cable end using a cotton bud dipped in methylated spirits. Quite a lot of black residue was removed which (fingers very much crossed!) I hope was the cause of poor electrical contact and, hence, no digits. I aim to refit the instrument asap and will let you know of my success or otherwise! Should I not get the required result, rather than cut the inside of the otherwise fully operational instrument around and risk damaging it, I'm inclined to fit a remote hourmeter (£15 from my local chandlery) wired into the ignition circuit. I'll keep you posted, thank you, both, again for your help. I found your messages most useful.

Thank you CwazyWabbit & Western. Some really good stuff in your messages. I need now to get to the boat to remove instrument which won't be for a couple of days in this weather. But I'll be sure to get in touch again asap. Meanwhile, thank you very much for your help. I really appreciate it.

Hello CwazyWabbit Thank you for your help. Photos attached (I hope!)

Mr CwazyWabbit - please can you help me? I generally get help from the Discovery forum but in having a general 'mooch' about I came across this Defender topic. Apologies for raising a marine instrument problem but it looks to be very similar. The rev counter on my boat incorporates an hourmeter with the engine hours run shown digitally. Some while ago the digits disappeared, to reappear for a few moments before disappearing again - it now looks as if they've gone for good. It was suggested to me that the problem was caused by damp but putting the instrument in the airing cupboard has not cured the problem. I wonder if the problem is caused by a broken cable - to which you refer? Although badged Volvo-Penta the markings on the back of the instrument show Siemens VDO - I could send photos but I don't know how to attach them to this topic. I'd be most grateful for any help you could give me.

Is it from the switch on the clutch master cylinder / clutch hydraulic pipe? If so, it's possible that the symptoms are (i) the cruise control won't be working and (ii) the revs won't drop (or only very slowly) having revved the engine to change up a gear.

ps Are the plastic wheel arches easily removed?

All Lots of very good tips. Many thanks for your help, very much appreciated. Happy New Year!

Some very good tips, there. Thank you all.

Thank you, landroversforever. Sorry, I'm not sure what 'plastic primer' is? Presumably a special primer which is designed to adhere to plastic and, if so, where can I source it, please? Halfords (say)?

The black plastic wheel arches on my 2002 Discovery 2 have gone 'grey' and, in places, rough as a result of being attacked by sunlight. Is there anything I can paint on them to restore the finish? Any information would be gratefully received.

The fabric headlining is starting to fall away / sag (on the concave parts) on my Discovery 2. Is there any way of re-attaching it to the main headlining material? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Meant to add a couple of questions to my last note re. my '52 TD5 - (i) I no longer have water soaking the roof lining in general - only water dripping down off the 'release' button on the winding handle of the manual front sunroof! Any thoughts on where that could be coming from, please? (ii) In one or two places the roof lining fabric seems to breaking away from the headliner moulding itself, generally on the concave areas. Has anyone else experienced this, please? If so, how does one stick it back?

When I removed the headlining in my '52 TD5 to establish the cause of the leak in the roof I, too, found the plastic pipes had broken off the corner mouldings. I reasoned that the cause of them breaking was the headlining pressing on the drain pipes. From a bit of thin stainless steel sheet I cut some strips, bent them to make a protective 'shield' and Araldited them to the roof pressing.