boaterboy

Thank you for that, I'll try again pumping grease in. Presumably, one seal will 'give' before the others and having released the pressure in the u/j none of the other seals will 'leak'? No off-road type use so hopefully double carden joint will have a long life? Vehicle currently at 120k miles. Why aren't grease nipples fitted from new, I wonder? Solely cost?

In the end, I unscrewed the grease nipples and cleared by pumping grease through - but having refitted I still couldn't get any grease into the U/Js. Guess they must be full already. Didn't want to overdo it for fear of bursting any seals.

It's occurred to me that reason that I can't get any grease into the grease nipple(s) is because the tiny ball(s) at the end of the grease nipple(s) is corroded in? I wonder if a very gentle tap would free it up?

Thank you, teabag, for your advice. I've now done this and below are my findings in case they should help anyone. Front prop shaft - Front U/J - grease nipple already fitted but unable to grease, reluctant to apply too much pressure for fear of bursting seal(s) Sliding joint - grub screw fitted, inserted grease nipple and able to pump in grease. 'Double' rear U/Js - no grease nipple(s) fitted or grub screw(s) to allow for fitting of grease nipple(s). So, greasing not possible. Rear prop shaft - Front U/J - grease nipple already fitted but unable to grease, reluctant to apply too much pressure for fear of bursting seal(s) Sliding joint - grease nipple already fitted, able to pump in grease until seen. Rear U/J - rubber do-nut type, therefore no greasing required.

Thank you, bear, for your tip. I've now done this and shown my findings on my topic Discovery2 TD5 - U/Js & Prop Shafts Greasing?

I'm re-posting this as my earlier topic title gave no lead as to my question! I've spotted grease nipples on the U/Js & Prop Shafts on my vehicle. Is greasing these items a regular maintenance job? And, if so, what be the frequency of carrying it out and what grease should be used, please?

Whilst familiarising myself with the underside of my vehicle I saw grease nipples on the U/Js and prop shafts. Is greasing these items a regular maintenance job? If so, what would be the frequency & the grease to use, please?

Thank you, bear, for taking the trouble to send the link. It will be extremely useful and I appreciated your doing so.

Thank you, Maverik. I'm pleased to see it's not too expensive.

Thank you, Bear, for your very speedy reply. Would you know if this is a costly component, please?

Firstly, please excuse my lack of knowledge wrt component names. My TD5 is leaking (small, regular drip) fuel from high up on the rear of the engine about in line with the bell housing. The leak is only present when the engine is running. Someone more knowledgeable than me says it is from a unit/component at the end of a fuel feed pipe on the driver / offside of the engine. Apparently, the pipe runs along the side of the engine at about cylinder head level and the leak is likely to be coming from a position to the rear of the engine - which would tie in with the drip being off the bottom of the bell housing. Can someone please help me identify more precisely the root of the problem in order that I can get it fixed? Thank you so much in anticipation.

I shall be following all of the good advice given to me by you all. Thank you so much.

I really appreciated your photo & instructions, JohnnoK. Thank you very much.

I was very interested to read your comments, Blanco. Thank you for your reply. How difficult / long a job is it to replace the loom. please?

First let me say that whilst I have a Discovery2 TD5 I have no great knowledge of the engine and may even use the incorrect component descriptions in the following. However, I was given the below tip by someone who is knowledgeable. I apologise if the issue has already been dealt with on this forum, if so, please take it in the way it is intended, ie to perhaps save someone the cost of a new ECU - quite expensive I understand. I was told that oil from the engine could by capillary action find its way along the wiring loom into the two multi-pin connectors on the ECU (situated immediately behind the battery), that should that be the case it would not be evident from a casual glance and if present could lead to ECU failure. Apparently the 'other' end of the multi-wire loom enters the engine at some point. I found it easy to remove the ECU (one self tapping screw) and the loom was of sufficient length to allow the ECU to be removed. I was absolutely staggered to find both connectors awash with oil and the tray below, likewise. I was advised to use brake cleaner aerosol spray to dilute the oil on all parts of the connectors sufficient for it to drain away and then to let the residue of the brake cleaner evaporate. I've reassembled the lot and all seems well. A lucky escape?

Thank you for your thoughts, Bear. Appreciated your note re. breathers. From your experience, are any of the seal(s) in any of the units more prone to failure than others?

I've got an oil leak in my TD5 transmission at 117k miles. Although I can see where the drip is on the floor I'm having a job tracing the source. I thought I might start by checking oil levels in each of the units, ie gearbox (manual), transfer box, front differential, to see if there has been a drop in level thereby indicating the source. Does anyone have a better way of finding the source, please? Also, I'm not sure how much oil I may have lost whilst underway, should I find a drop in oil level in one of the units how much of a drop in level is possible before serious damage is done?

Thank you Glue and Western for your added comments. In fact, the light has not flashed again over the last 6 weeks since I noticed it first.

Thank you western and bear for your speedy and helpful replies, very much appreciated. It sounds as if it's not a safety critical issue.

The subject warning light very occasionally flashes momentarily. The handbook talks about excessive amounts of water in the fuel. A new fuel filter was fitted about 13k miles ago. Is the warning light flashing a cause for concern? What can be done about it, ie could it be for reason(s) other than excessive water in the fuel? Any advice would be gratefully received.

Thank you for your attention to my question, Nonimouse and JUKE179r. Much appreciated.

Good tip, ballcock. Very many thanks.

Apologies for such a basic question to such a knowledgeable forum. Please could someone advise where best to get a spare wheel cover for a Discovery. Vinyl preferred, no fancy print / picture, plain would be ok, a reasonable life expectancy, genuine LR not required. Some of the ones for sale on eBay look just too cheap to be any good. Very many thanks in anticipation.

The connectors between the tray and the drain pipes referred to by JohnnoK are plastic injection mouldings, the tubes of which I have found to fracture (probably due to the pressure of the roof liner on them) thereby letting water onto roof lining instead of going down the drain pipes. I Araldited the tubes back in place and then Araldited some stainless steel sheet guards to the roof pressing itself to prevent the roof liner touching the plastic mouldings when it was replaced. It cured the leak around the front edge of the liner but I still get water leaking down the shaft of the front winding handle from time to time. Lots on this forum about leaking roofs!

Or, can I just remove fuse number 6, 10 amps, air conditioning (see attached - I hope it transmits - never posted a scan before!) to isolate the compressor clutch instead of unplugging the clutch wire as suggested above? Scan taken from Discovery handbook. Thank you for your ongoing help, all. It's very much appreciated.