boaterboy

Thank you, sierrafery. That answers that, much appreciated.

The multi-pin socket at the back of my vehicle's headlamp unit is mounted in a 'plug' type component which can be loosened by turning it through about 30 degrees. However, the 'plug' cannot then be removed, it seems only possible to push it inwards into the main body of the headlamp unit. What is the purpose of this 'plug', please? I discovered it whilst trying to get to the source of a 'clicking' sound in the off-side headlamp which appears to relate to a failed headlamp adjustment device. Any help relating to this problem would be very much appreciated.

Well, certainly they were clear until quite recently. I had the roof lining out about 12 months ago, cleaned the drain tubes and fixed the 'junction' boxes onto which the drain tubes join - they had broken loose and I bonded them back on. But your points are taken, teabag & Bowie69, and I suppose it's the roof lining to come out, again, and check the drain tubes are clear. I don't think they can be cleared in situ without removing the headling?

So if that means that the winder spindle is the lowest point (because that is where water is exiting) shouldn't there be an o-ring seal on it to stop water dripping into the cockpit?

Having seemingly fixed any water leakage around the sunroofs of my vehicle by removing the headlining and fixing the drain channels/pipes (no more soaking headlining is evident), I now have a leak down the spindle of the front sunroof winder (the sunroofs are manually operated) - water drips onto the centre console. However, there is not a leak on the rear sunroof spindle. Has anyone else experienced this problem, please? And, if so, how is it fixed, please? Is there an O-ring seal anywhere on the spindle assembly that could have worn?

Thank you, western.

Thanks for that, bear. In fact, I repaired the valve by separating the two parts of the body with a sharp knife and cleaning the diaphragm (I must get out more now the Summer's here!). But, I did break six of the plastic pins. Do you have any idea where they can be sourced, please?

Thank you for that, western.

Bear, presumably the 'card' to which you refer is the vinyl covered door panel? One other question, before I damage the panel is it removed by means of a blade between it and the door surround, please?

Thank you, bear, for such a speedy & comprehensive reply. I'll certainly do as you say.

Sorry, dstevenson, for my oversight. Reading your topic again I see that indeed your cruise control has failed. Therefore, almost certainly, the answer to your problem is a new pressure switch on the clutch hydraulic line - but check electrical connection, too, in case of a break there.

I experienced revs not dropping when changing up on my 2002 TD5 and eventually tracked it down to the pressure switch on the clutch hydraulic system having been left off as a result of shoddy workmanship by a mechanic when I had a new clutch master cylinder replaced. Has your cruise control also failed, as indeed, mine had? Depressing the clutch pedal with cruise control in operation disengages the cruise control (as does depressing the brake pedal). Missing clutch pressure switch / faulty clutch pressure switch = no cut off of fuel supply, therefore no drop in revs & no cruise control.

The windscreen wipers & washers and the rear screen wiper all work on my vehicle. The headlamp washers are disconnected pending the completion of some front end work. The rear screen washer has failed, however. Does anyone have any idea as to the reason why, please? In case it's the water supply tube what is the route of this through the vehicle, please? Any help will be gratefully appreciated.

A good point, steve_a. Thank you for that. As a starter, I have cleaned the O rings up and put a thin smear of Vaseline on them to aid sealing. I'll see how I get on and let you know.

There is condensation in one of the headlights on my vehicle. The headlights are of the later design, ie headlights x 2, indicator, sidelight, side reflector, all contained in one unit behind a transparent plastic 'screen'. My question is, has anyone dismantled a headlight assembly of this type and, in particular, to the stage where they have removed the 'screen' to which I refer, please? I'd like to clean the inside surface of the screen and re-seal it to the main body of the assembly. I've taken the unit off the vehicle and, as ever with these things, it is held together by a lot of plastic spring clips. I'm reluctant to start the disassembly in case I break any of the clips and find eventually that I can't remove screen, anyway. Incidentally, I found a short-term way of getting rid of the condensation. Having removed the headlight unit, I removed the bulbs from their mounts and blew warm air (low temperature, low fan speed) from a hair dryer into one of the holes left by the removed bulbs - the warm damp air being expelled through the other until all condensation was removed.

and.........

I'm afraid plug hex found to be damaged. Does anyone have any other thoughts, please? Is it possible to file two flats on the plug and use a spanner?

ps It's a manual, but I'm sure dave88sw's tip re. auto boxes is most useful for owners of such vehicles.

Very many thanks to you all for your most speedy and reassuring replies. In mentioning 'the leading edge of the front doors' I was aiming to position where I was witnessing the drips, I should have added 'when viewed from the side of the vehicle'. In fact, the position lines up pretty much exactly with the drain pipes to which bear referred and, in fact, drips from each side of the gearbox were evident and today I found the pipes. I ran the a/c again and, whilst no condensate dripped out, the air through the vents inside the vehicle was pretty chilly - which would not have been the case should the system have drained empty due to a leak? I am wondering if, because I've had the system regassed, the system is now very much more efficient (warm air through the vents was previously the norm) and much more condensate is being produced - sufficient to be noticed, whereas previously this was not the case. So, fingers crossed that I'm not faced with the more serious problem that I anticipated - and, thank you all, again.

Today I noticed a 'drip' from under my car about in line with the leading edge of the front doors. It is neither oil nor engine coolant, which leads me to believe it is the a/c system leaking. In addition, when the ventilation system is in Economy mode, ie with the a/c switched off, the leak stops. I've just had the system re-gassed and a pressure test reported no leaks - whether the pressure test has burst the system at some point? I need to get into / under the vehicle to try and determine exactly where the leak point is but, as a first stage, I wonder whether anyone has any similar experience and/or can give me an idea of how accessible the various components are? Are any of the components up behind the dashboard, for example? And, if so, is a complete strip out required? Help and advice of any sort would be very much appreciated at this early stage.

Thank you, sierrafery. Very much appreciated.

What precisely is the shape & size of the 'recess' in the plug, please? I don't want to damage the plug in trying to remove it.

Thank you for that tip and the link, sierrafery. I will definitely try the stuff. I did hear that the 'plug' and the body were made of incompatible materials which is the reason they 'stick' together? Any truth in that, would you know?

What experience has anyone had with removing/changing the ACE filter, please? As far as I know the maintenance schedule calls for every 6 years / 72k miles. First time round needed a (very) long bar to shift it. The time to do it for the second time has arrived but even that won't work. Please help! Very many thanks in anticipation.

Thank you, teabag. I had been unable to find such a diagram. As additional help, should anyone need it, the two 'in-line' pipes on the connector feed the washer jets and the single one goes to the washer pump.