boaterboy

Thanks for all that, Pawl12. It's not easy to deflect the belt between pulleys. The belt seems pretty taut. As I mentioned before, with a ring spanner on the bolt head of the tensioner it is possible to move it (at right angles to the crankshaft). From what I read elsewhere I get the impression it should require a lot of force to move the pulley against the tensioner spring? The engine came up to 100k miles only two days ago. As best that I can judge the tensioner pulley 'bounces' about 3-4mm from one extreme to the other. Looking at the other pulleys they all seem to be running true - a knackered pulley bearing or bent pulley elsewhere would be easy to spot with the engine running, ie the pulley would be running out of true?

Thank you for that, Bowie69. Looking at diagrams of the tensioner in trying to understand how it could have failed, it appears that the pulley is mounted at the end of a casting which incorporates either a clock type spring or a rubber moulding providing a torsional resistance? Do you know which? If the latter, presumably the compound could have gone soft? Have you any experience of driving with a 'soft' tensioner and, if so, what is the potential for causing damage? I just need to travel 50-60 miles before being able to get it fixed and don't want to worsen the situation. Thank you for your ongoing help, very much appreciated.

When viewed from above with the engine on my vehicle running it is evident that the pulley 'bounces', ie in and out at right angles to the crankshaft. With a spanner on the bolt it is possible to move the pulley from side to side, again at right angles to the crankshaft. Is all of the above in order, please? Thank you for your help.

Thank you all for your help. Really appreciated. Some really excellent leads which I will try.

This isn't a joke question! When I turn off the engine there is a momentary, quite noticeable 'chirrup' sound from the engine compartment! No trapped bird(s) as far as I can see! Can anyone throw any light on what it might be, please? All jokes will remain the property of the originator!

dave88sw - thank you for your help in identifying the pipe, your full explanation was a great help in understanding its function. Thanks for the offer of pics, but none needed. steve_a - a great tip for removing the kink, thank you for that.

Re. anti-syphon gauze - I've had the vehicle from new (2002) and no such device was fitted on delivery.

I think this question of mine may well have got lost in the middle of another of my queries. Alongside the fuel filler pipe, which runs from the filler cap to the tank, are 2 other pipes, both of which lead up into the bodywork near to the off-side rear mudguard. The 3 pipes are held/linked together by what looks like a plastic moulded section. The pipe I'm interested in learning the function of appears to be plastic, is about 10mm outside diameter and disappears over the top of the fuel tank. Towards the filler cap end of the pipe it has incorporated in it a plastic 'moulding' with a square, red piece inset. One of the reasons for my interest in this pipe is that it is looped round to the extent that it is kinked - and whatever its purpose (fluid, vapour, air transfer) nothing will be flowing through it. Any help will be very much appreciated. Thank you.

Thank you all, some very useful advice, much appreciated. Just one other question. Two pipes run alongside the main filler hose when viewed from underneath the vehicle. All three are linked together (by means of a section of plastic moulding?) before they disappear up alongside the bodywork. One of the hoses, plastic(?), approx. 10mm outside diameter, is looped round and totally kinked before going over the top of the tank at the other end to the bodywork. What is this pipe for, please? And, what is likely to be the impact of the kink in the hose? To help identify the hose in question, I can see, in line with the hose, what looks like a block with a red, square insert.

About 60 litres as best that I can judge, so too heavy to manage easily. A good thought of yours, Scotts90, re. going directly into the tank. The pipe & jubilee clips are easily accessed from underneath, I see, so will give what you suggest a try. Thank you.

Has anyone managed to drain a Discovery 2, TD5 fuel tank via the filler cap, please? I've tried without success. It appears that the filler pipe enters the tank horizontally and near the top, meaning the drain hose being used sits above the level of the fuel in the tank and doesn't drop down. I was reluctant to be too forceful with the drain hose in case it interfered with the fuel gauge sender unit. If what I say above is correct, how does one drain the tank prior to removal, please?

Apologies, teabag, I'm not understanding you. By leaving the fuse in position are you saying the relay will operate, but will not transfer power to the pump because the pump is disconnected/unplugged? Can I do damage by leaving the fuse in position?

A good tip about the fog light switch, Matt. Thank you for that. Apologies if I sound a bit thick, but as I've disconnected/unplugged the headlamp washer pump (at the bottle) do I still need to remove the fuse?

Thank you all for the very good advice, as usual.

It sounds like it's ok to leave off the driving/fog lights. The headlamps are not self-levelling - only adjustable manually, western. Also, there's no wipe facility on the headlamps only a spray every 3 or 4 sprays of the windscreen when the headlamps are switched on. What are HID headlights, Tanuki, please?

I have, on my Discovery 2, '52 reg, done the following: (i) temporarily removed completely the two driving/fog lights and (ii) removed the headlamp washers and disconnected the headlamp washer pump (the windscreen & rear screen washers are unaffected). Will my doing the above result in an MoT failure, please?

Brilliant! Thank you, Les.

Thank you for all of that, Scotts90. A great help. I particularly take your point about having as empty a tank as possible!

Please can anyone direct me to the method of removing the fuel tank in the subject vehicle? Also, I'd be grateful for comment on the degree of difficulty of such a job, likely pitfalls, length of time to do, etc.. Thank you very much for your help, in anticipation.

Thanks to all your advice I've now been able to remove the carpet holding strip inside the rear door. If I can add a couple of comments myself. The strip covering the retaining screws is very flexible and lifting it in the centre quickly revealed each end and hence removal was easy. The main strip (with the ribbed sections) is more substantial in cross section and requires more effort to bend with the added chance of it snapping. I was unable to remove one end first since its overall length meant that even moving it fully to one side (under the side panels) the other end was not exposed. I decided to move it back to a central position and with everything 'crossed' and fearing the strip breaking I carefully lifted the centre until both ends became visible and I was able to remove it. I will shorten the main strip before putting it back, it needs to be no longer than is just sufficient for the ends to be hidden under the side panels, and this will mean it doesn't have to be bent so much when replacing. I would add that I removed the strip on a warm day when the plastic strip was less prone to snapping, in freezing conditions I might not have been so lucky. Finally, my having now been able to lift the carpet, there was thankfully no evidence of the floor rusting but, since I must have the rusted off-side chassis member welded, I am now in a position to put a heat reflecting mat between the carpet and the floor to prevent any scorching of the former during the welding process. But, I guess that's another story! Thank you again.

Thank you so much for this info. dave88sw. I really appreciated your speedy reply.

In spite of the advice of James & Anglo-Frenchman, I have been unable to remove the strip referred to which hides the carpet retaining screws. There would appear to be two ribbed strips running across the vehicle, each about 30mm wide. They disappear under the side panels. There are also the load retaining rings (one each side) which would have to be removed. Is my vehicle a later model than expected? It's a 52 reg. Does anyone know if interior work is included in the Discovery manual? Again, any help is appreciated.

Thank you so much, James NZ and Anglo-Frenchman, for your info. I really appreciated it.

I think it's time to remove the rear carpet in my Discovery 2 to see what's happening under there with regard to any possible rust. I can't work out how to remove the fittings around the edge - in particular, the strip which runs across the back inside the rear door which clamps the carpet firmly to the floor. Any help would be gratefully received. Thank you.

Thank you, Les, I'll follow your advice.