boaterboy

I have no need to do this and hopefully never will - but I came across V8 Freak's description purely by chance & being curious and want to say what a fantastic explanation! Most comprehensive words & excellent pics, too.

No doubt wise words, bear. Thank you.

Thank you for that, bear. It looks like a multi-pin connector? Will get to the car later to see. Do I need to identify a single lead (ie for the clutch) or can I just disconnect the connector complete, please?

Please could you help me identify the clutch wire to which you refer, supaimpy?

Thank you for your most speedy and very useful reply, bear. Much appreciated.

The a/c on my D2 has failed and requires a new condenser (leaking) - too costly for me to replace at the moment! The cabin heater and a/c dashboard controls are integrated. Is it ok for me to continue using the heater, please? Do I need to or can I isolate the a/c in any way? If it is ok to continue using the heater will any damage occur to the a/c system? Very many thanks for any help & advice, in anticipation.

Thank you, Blanco, for your reply which gave me a good start and to you, bear, for the actual parts drawing. Excuse my ignorance but is the knuckle part no 1 in the drawing? Also, any recommendations wrt the best supplier / manufacturer of the ball joints, please?

I've been told that a ball joint dust cover at the lower end of the front suspension on my D2 TD5 is deteriorating. Please could someone help me identify what & where this part is? Also, is it a safety critical item and how easy would it be to replace? Thank you very much in anticiation of your help.

Thank you Blanco and BogMaster for your input. Very much appreciated and your advice gets me off to a good start.

Please could somebody recommend a reasonable make of tyre for my TD5? Size 255/65R16 Road use only. 3-4k miles per annum maximum To be generally available, ie easily purchased make. Also, would two new tyres on one axle only be a problem for the transmission / differentials due to differing circumference front / rear (say)? Thank you for your help in anticipation, very much appreciated.

No probs. Out of interest, I wonder if is it permitted to remove a headlamp washer assembly on a post-2009 vehicle and hence not have anything to fail on the Mot?

Thank you for that, Bowie69. Hadn't come across that before, something I've learned today.

Ally V8 - Which part(s) of the above conversation was edited, please?

sierrafery - very many thanks for explaining the circuit and the test tip. I appreciated it. BogMaster - I liked your approach to the problem! However, having an aversion to something fitted which is not working plus having the vehicle from new and my trying to keep is 'as original' as possible (a odd trait of mine!) I think I will try to fix and should I fail then I will adopt you approach. Very many thanks, anyway.

Thank you for your speedy reply, dave88sw. I'll certainly set up a test as you outline. I do know that the headlight washers should work every third time that the windscreen washers operate. So I guess that, if power is available at the pump, then the bulb will only light once in every three occasions? Would you know if it is the BCU which controls the one in three action? Also, where is the relay located should I need to find it, later? Thank you for your help, it's very much appreciated.

I am trying to identify why the headlight washers on my Discovery 2 will not work. What I do know is that having removed the outlet pipe on the pump and operated the system no water is pumped out - although every third cycle the headlights dim very slightly (when operating on the battery only) indicating some current draw? Screen (front & rear) washers operate correctly. My electrical knowledge is extremely limited but I do see that the circuit incorporates - BCU - pump relay - pump Whilst I have neither the knowledge nor the equipment to do the tests would anyone know if it would be possible for someone with the know-how and test gear to identify which of the above components has failed? I would hate to buy a new pump only to find that something else in the circuit had failed. Thank you for your advice which will be gratefully received.

Has anyone used a DRAUTO pump (part no. DMC100560G) in place of the more expensive genuine LR pump (part no. DMC100560) and, if so, with what results?

Many thanks, again, sierrafery. Very much appreciated.

Meant to ask you, sierrafery, would you know if the headlamp washer pump just clips into the reservoir, please? Think I'll remove and clean around whilst replacing the T-piece / non-return valve.

Thank you so much for that info., sierrafery, very much appreciated. Looks like an easy fix (for once!).

For some seemingly inexplicable reason the headlamp washers on my vehicle have just started to leak (without being switched on) to the extent that the water reservoir is drained dry over quite a short period of time. As far as I can see from the diagram in the LR manual there is no one-way valve in system which may prevent this happening? Should there be one? Any other thoughts as to the cause would be gratefully received.

Thank you, miggit & sierrafery, for your input. Yes, you are absolutely correct, sierrafery, the vehicle does have SPE, I'm not sure how I could have been thinking otherwise. I assume that the driver door only unlocking as a first stage is a safety feature to ensure no uninvited entry to the passenger side when unlocking the driver's door? I will certainly do as suggested. I can open the passenger door manually from inside. The odd thing is that with all doors unlocked it is then possible to lock them all, including the passenger door, using the key button. Thank you, again.

The door locks on my vehicle usually operate in the standard way, ie first press on the key button unlocks the two front doors, the second press unlocks the three remaining doors. In the last few days the first press on the key button only unlocks the off-side front door, ie not the near-side front door. The second press on the key unlocks the three remaining doors but still not the near-side front door. Any thoughts on how to cure, please?

Sorry, Cchase, just back having been away for a period and only just seen your question. No 'before' pics, I'm afraid, but 'after' still looks good.

The plastic wheel arch surrounds on my D2 were looking decidedly tired, grey, faded in the sun, etc. I tried various proprietary products which did not do the job. I've now used a good quality black shoe polish, paste in a tin type, not liquid, applied with a stiff brush. I used a thin sheet of card around the edge of the arch to prevent polish getting on the paintwork. Early days but much improved and looking good.