pete3000
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Posts posted by pete3000
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Ohlins bear in mind the height of the wolf/tithonous cage may be different to the 90/10. This could result in the wolf pvc covers drooping lower on the tub below the rope cleats. The cleats are also in subtly different places and types, there are 2 quick release ropes cleats also particular to the wolf
Pete
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If you have taken the dash out and applied voltages as above, i'd go with the gauge. pin2 12v, stud 0v, remove the connector from terminal 1 (green/black) then view the gauge whilst shorting pin 1 to the gauge casing.
Obviously if the gauge drops when you remove the connector from pin1 then you could have a wiring short between the gauge and sender.
Pete
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I got it wrong pin 1 is the sender 2 is the supply, it didn't make a great deal of difference on my gauge, the meter started off the wrong way, if you short pin 1 to the case then the meter rises to full.If you have a multimeter you could just measure the resistance beween the black and green/black 250 Ohms is emptyish an 0 ohms is full. How much is a new/ebay gauge?
Pete
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have you got the 0v black connected to the bolt on the fuel gauge? the low fuel lamp is 12v fed and comes on when the sender goes to 0v end of wiper.
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0v is the bolt (not either terminal) 1 should be +12v switched green ign. 2 should be the return from the tank sender (green/black) with 0v on bolt, try 12v on terminal 1 and note reading then touch 12v to 2 with 1 still powered., note reading again.
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which wires at the sender did you cross? there should be a black which is earthed to chassis, the other sender wire green/black? and a low fuel lamp indicator grey/ white. If you cross the green and black the gauge should move. Remove green wire should show full.
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Looks like ERR3093 is another pulley which can be used. Common to 2.5NA 2.5TD and 200TDI ? My own experince with flingers is to buy new rather than try and remove. They are pressed on loosely, and if they are reused and spin, can be annoying at best. If you have the new and the old you'll give yourself a backup plan if the new one doesn't work out.
Looks like you need all three parts you list, is your old pulley no good? or is it just the damper which has given up?
The only other part i'd buy new if you are doing the job is a new crank bolt and timing case oil seal.
Pete
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depends what voltage the charger is or is capable of. If it's 48v only then no. If it can do 12v you could do a 12v battery/s at a time to see if you have a weaker battery.
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4 hours ago, Ed Poore said:
A standard LTO tape cartridge will hold 18TB uncompressed (45TB compressed), a stack of DVDs of similar physical space is 153GB. Probably not for everybody but when your backups have to be stored in a secure environment every little space matters.
Holy 45TB storage Batman, i guess if you need to store your "special interest" film collection?......
😎.
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9 minutes ago, reb78 said:
CDs have a shelf life? I would have thought any I create today or in the last 20 years would outlive me.
They do, they also can tarnish scratch and burn quite well. That's why i have at least 2 copies refreshed occasionally. The main hidden advantage of burn once media though is that they cannot be overwritten or altered by nasties or accidental means...... which is what i was aluding to above.
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On 10/3/2022 at 10:37 PM, BogMonster said:
Is this a problem likely to be more widely applicable than just QNAP devices?
I have various vital company documents that I simply cannot afford to use (and my email archive - same reason) which I back up every few weeks to a 2TB portable drive because I have always wondered how secure the NAS drives are and whether they are susceptible to hacking in from outside given they are effectively "always online". Security "professionals" get snobby about the concept of things being isolated via an air gap but if a hacker manages to get into my top drawer here then good luck to them! But there is a lot that is not backed up - mainly photos etc.
Should one block or do anything specific on a firewall to protect a NAS, or how do hackers get in to it, and what is the weak point? Mine isn't set up for remote access (rubbish internet connection) so I guess that is a start.
For docs and photos you absolutlely have to have, use CD-R's or DVD-R's. Once they are finalised they are read only. Then your only concern is disk physical damage or legacy of hardware (like ls120 or zip drives). Again 2 copies of the CD/DVD's should be made regularly , one in your possesion and one with a trusted relative or the bank. This can be useful in case of fire/theft for proving property ownership for insurance records. I have lost count of the number of stories of "all my photos were on that device when it was lost/stolen/stopped working". I'm usually able to help in the last case.
I don't trust cloud backups at all, or rely on a single copy on spinning disks or flash based storage all can fail.
Pete
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There are recent firmware updates for similar NAS script vulnerabilities which have been made available. I have an offline (not connected copy) of my NAS data. as SPendrey says 3 copies.
Your fast access (PC or primary NAS) a slower incremental store e.g QNAP or Truenas, then a removeable drive or media source. All are located apart. I gave up on QNAP commercially when I found the RAID5 array wasn't reporting disc errors until the system was rebooted (after a power failure and expiry of the UPS battery).At this point it decided the array was unrecoverable. A data recovery firm managed to get 90% back.
Most file backup or imaging software has the ability now to detect if large amounts of files are being updated or altered. Some leave a marker file which is a system file created by the backup software,if this is modified in the source the backup won't propagate to the destination.
Pete
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You can pick up the wolf plates for the safety chains for cheap on the bay, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303328882760
These make good spreader plates with some suitably rated bolts and double half nuts (for locking up)
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Have you changed anything since it worked well, or has it never worked? if not check you have a good vacuum at the servo valve.
On the other hand if it's never worked explore the setup of the system, I struggled for more than a year after doing a rear disc conversion. In the end i had a moment of inspiration and fitted a newer disc brake master cylinder from a late 300tdi (smaller cylinder diameter than 2.5nad and twin front ports) this allowed more pressure/less volume to the brakes and it now locks up if i stand on the brakes.
Pete
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Series 3 has push pull for difflock? are your gear levers colour coded? i.e red, yellow, black?
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Interesting, i see they mark the GW for RHS indicator telltale 3, so 10 LHS has to be GR which isn't marked.
The rest make sense with RW the gauge backlight feeds (fed/isolated by the panel light switch 2)
Ignition switched (fused) Greens to feed the various gauges/switches
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Have you checked the earth from the engine/block to your electrical, assuming you have as gauge moves? Mine started playing up when my earth was playing up.
The defender 300 sender on mine was green? AMR1425 (with td5 gauge conversion). Now scrapped out in favour of a proper VDO temp in deg C jobber.
You have AMR3321 which should be correct for 300tdi/analogue gauge.
Try a negative jump lead only between engine block and battery negative, see if reading on guage changes. After that i'd move to the black ring terminal on the bulkhead under the bonnet that should be the gauge/instrument earths.
It won't take much to upset it, also see if the fuel gauge is doing a similar thing?
Pete
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For those looking for a replacement washer bottle cap, a ford fiesta 2005-2008 blue cap fits a treat, simply drill a hole for the tubing £1.95 ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304336009416
The genuine wing bottles if you can source one are around £150.
Pete
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To update this some more, the new £38 P38 drag link complete with TRE's was cut to give a length 160mm shorter (1015mm between tre's). to retain the use of the p38 adjuster thingy and the left hand threaded tre. I bought a 20.5mm reduced shank drill and an M22 x1.5 taper and M22 x 1.5 2nd tap to recut the threads and avoid welding etc.
Pete
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Depends if the bar is tool steel, however try grind a flat spot on it, then get some decent cobalt drills and start with say a 3mm to get a centre, then work up to a larger size till you can use a drift again.
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Made a bit more progress on this now, used a 4.6 P38 pump which had the threaded hp connection rather than a banjo. It came with a cutoff pipe union so was able to confirm the thread and fitting is identical to a defender 300tdi pump. Useful as the defender pipe for this is £22 not £180. The only thing required to splice to a p38 hardline is a 8mm to 10mm hydraulic compression fitting at around £7. All the P38 hardline pipes are 10mm OD and the defender 300tdi 8mm OD.
£70 QME500190 steering joint linkage, mates up to the p38 steering box (needs a rub with a round file on the box to allow the pinch bolt to go through) then slips nicely up to the late series 3/early defender column. A piece of 25mmx25mm box around 80-100mm long section allows the bottom of the column bearing to sit nicely on the old bulkhead support plate.
One more ask...... (#Snagger) I have a new P38 drag link to cut down, assume I am cutting the (open) threaded end off then re-tapping 11/16 UNS RH tap? as the other end is welded up?
Pete
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pull the rear half of the loom with the connector loom which runs through the chassis to the rear, at least you'll know if the front half has the short.
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Most of the faults you list above though are the indicator horn and high beam, all of which are on the indicator stalk. Lights should appear on the dash switch which is fed with Brown, then switched red for side and blue for dipped/main. Depending on the stalk position. Head lights should have fuses for each side and for dipped and main beam.
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Was it originally ex military? the loom may have some extra features which need to be linked out or adapted. e.g 6 way light switch and convoy lights.
I did mine over 10 years ago and changed the fuse box to blades at the same time, 2.5 nad had glass fuses which are blow current rather than holding.
Pete
Drag link length for P38 power steering
in Series Forum
Posted
TRE threads are different to original 88/109 but the taper for the tre is the same.