pete3000
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Posts posted by pete3000
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If it's not parallel then undoing the hardtop/windscreen rail, and the wing fixings? and pulling the top of the bulkhead forward with some ratchet straps? Once you are happy with the gaps then pull up tight with the footwell plates and the wings.
As a guide i went for 6-8mm gap all round the door. A good indication was to shove a couple of 8mm bolts in the hinge side of each door top and bottom, then tighten the hinges up. It was more obvious then if the waistline/seams and the bottom of the door lined up.
Pete
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If you are doing the other ends as well you may need to borrow Mike's "special dictionary". The bolts will likely be seized in the bushes and the arms, ask me how i know. It's easier to undo the three nuts/bolts on the plate to chassis for each side once you've split the ball joint end apart then do each side on the bench. New nuts and bolts required in all positions, use 8.8 for the 4x M10x45mm and 2x M10x55mm (M10 nylocs and form c washers) and the 2x suspension bolts are UNF?
2x NY612042 and 2x BH612321 (nut and bolt) Make sure the head of the bolt goes in from the centre of the chassis, with the nut in the small space on the outside of the chassis. It sounds obvious but if you assemble on the bench and bolt it up you won't be able to draw the pivot bolt out.
Pete
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Mine has superpro also, obviously chock the vehicle and put into difflock, only do 1 component at a a time, i.e either end of the axle 1 at a time then the A frame after or vice versa. Otherwise the only things holding the axle from wandering off are the shocks and the brake pipe. 🙂
From memory the castellated nut is a 30mm, which should come undone with a decent 1/2 inch T bar or good sized ratchet handle.
Pete
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You'll be wanting to add your A frame balljoint to the list as well soon. Gaiter/ Shield is split. Buy the whole assembly with new unf bolts, less hassle than trying to badger the old balljoint out.
Pete
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prop nuts/bolts are imperial 9/16" perhaps get some heat on the nuts if looking to renew, just be careful of diff seals etc.
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These any good?
might be worth getting one to try. Am i right in saying the bush is for the ABS sensor to hold it (friction fit) in the caliper/axle?
Pete
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.....or has someone done a sneaky egr delete/reroute of pipework? the disconnected bit doesn't look to be very clean, so not recent?
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Yes, pretty sure it is, item 16 is the short one which goes to the screen/vs footwell on top of the dash tray inside the cab.
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i ran into the same issue, mine was solidy attached/friction welded on?, so i just cut the outer off it in the lathe till it cleared the diff nose.
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I always replace both and the shouldered crank gear, I try and get bearmach or branded. It's the hassle factor of if you need it back on the road, or could wait a few days for a branded idler. The real work is having to replace it all if it's chocolate?
if you look at your unbranded are there any manufacturers marks to indicate quality?
Also there are early and late idlers, the later have the step washer as part of the boss so no need for washer as well. I'd always insist on a Dayco belt whatever.
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From putting mine back together its an M6x25mm bolt and stainless penny washer for this so you only need a 7mm drill at the front then as western says join it up to a slot. If you drill 3mm clear forward of the hole on each side that should give you the 10mm nudge you are after? The seatbox is slotted side to side to give wiggle sideways.
Where i drilled holes for clips etc i've used the satin black rustoleum spray can to cover any bare metal, itworks a treat at getting into little corners and pockets in the chassis also.
Pete
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Well the MOT was the biggest acheivement yesterday, which went well without any advisories. The brakes are much improved. It's all the little jobs to sort out now. Today sees the steering wheel and the anti slosh sorted on the fuel gauge. From breaking it all down last Feb it has gone back together ata steady pace. Next will be reinstating the 24v system and the paint job.
Pete
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you can adjust the gaps, but it would mean undoing the sill rail rear bolts where the return bracket turns through 90 degrees from the sill rail up to the rear of seatbox area. These are also slotted. However this will change your door gaps so caution required.
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Thanks Ralph, sorted the issue, had the wheel off. Turns out i'd got the cancelling slots vertical which is correct, but the small indent/arrow was pointing to the right (wiper side switches). It should be pointing to the left (indicator stalk). Recentred the slots to the left/vertical and fitted the wheel to match the road wheels and all is good again. The only job for a much warmer day is to spin the column locking point to 12 oclock, which means. beaking the uj apart once parked up.
Pete
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Mine are for the front of the seatbox, is yours a Richards Chassis?
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I think it depends on the year of TD5 Ross, best idea is to have a look at the tub and see if you have nut plates with rivets or rivnuts. Better still is if you have any pre dissasembly photos or witness marks on the tub?
You may get some adjustment in the strip though if the holes into the crossmember are slotted?
Pete
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1 hour ago, paime said:
Inching towards completion now - got the ABS sensors in last night and refitted the transmission tunnel, matitng and gear levers which means i now have my interior back. I've also bled the brakes and clutch which, interestingly enough has cured my squeeky clutch pedal. I used one of those one way valve bleeding systems which cost £5 and it was a piece of cake, would definitely recommend it.
I've now got to finish off aligning the body and i've been putting it off because it seems like a nightmare job. The bulkhead is about an inch back from the outriggers which is too far and i think the whole body needs to shift forward by about 10mm. What i'm struggling to understand is how that can happen as the front of the seat box is aligned to the chassis connections and there's no room for adjustment there. Is there a way to adjust the seatbox/floors in relation to the tub and bulkhead i.e. is there a way to alter the distance between A and B posts?
My bulkhead to outrigger gap only has 1 M10/M12? washer in between each side bolt. It was 3 washers on the old chassis. but your pic on page 8 looks like a massive gap.
Is the rear tub sat back inside on the rear crossmember plates as far as it will go, i.e just 2-3mm past flush with the face? Is the td5 crossmember angle plate adjustable for this, as the 300tdi is a fixed datum.
Can't remember now if the td5 has a cover plate on the rear crossmember or if it's just the military wolf.
Pete
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Thanks for the replies, i haven't had the box apart or the drop arm off so those will be fine. Similarly the drag link han't changed length so i'm happy that far. It's the splines from the steering box out to the column and it's position and the steering wheel index position on the column i'm more worried about. Ralph says his locks around the 60 degree point so i'' have a look at that.
Pete
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Does anyone have any info to hand on the best way to set the alignment between steering box splines/uj's, the steering column with steering lock cutout, and finally the steering wheel. All have been seperated for the rebuild but not convinced they are behaving properly.
I got back home after MOT and noted the steering wheel is pointing at the 2 o' clock position when box is centred/wheels straight and level, the cancelling of the indicators is biased (maybe because of the wheel. However should the column lock (with the key out) in a certain position?
Pete
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Thanks for the update Cluaran, yes common techniques indeed. You learned new ways of trying things that can be applied in the future. I got shot of my 07 plate passat for a similar reason, albeit at the other end of the car. The rear suspension drop arm bushes use a similar alloy into steel with a rubber core setup. I was quoted £500 to renew them as they needed the tracking adjusting as it would wear a rear tyre out every 6000 miles. Several garages tried to losen them on the ramp to ajust the caster/camber???? before saying £500. With weighing up the turbo wanted doing also due to a sticking wastegate and the £2k value of the car i chopped it in.
Experience is knowing when to have a good go and when to give it to someone else.
Pete
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i was going to say a blocked, waxed up fuel filter. depending on how cold it is with the snow it could be the fuel waxing up and blocking the filter/sedimenter.
Pete
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I'd take the chassis rail brackets off altogether (remove any shims if fitted) and get the long outrigger bolts in first. Dont forget to support the weight.
Pete
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Are there any better than the blue bag specials of NTC3650/ESR3172, i put 3 new ones on my 110 rebuild around 2-3months ago along with a new exhaust and worried they wont even last till the MOT, 2of 3 are spilt already. Anyone have any longer lasting part recommendations?
Pete
Rear diff “issues”
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted