pete3000
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Posts posted by pete3000
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1 hour ago, missingsid said:
I have a tacho adapter fitted, not perfect (it is not accurate at low revs) but that may be the EDIS/ Megajoolt not your kit. It saved me buying new and enabled me to match old speedo and tacho so I'm happy.
The speedo worked fine but the clever pwm fuel gauge and temp readout didn't. I used the guage wizard to sort the fuel gauge and indicator. Then i replaced the temp gauge with a new and more accurate VDO vision sender and gauge.
Pete
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On 2/8/2022 at 3:39 PM, Spiyda said:
I'm not trying to advertise, just make sure people dont buy the wrong product.
I just saw the links to one of our products in this post, and I think a better option would be our High power low fuel module module
https://spiyda.com/12-24v-low-fuel-warning-light-module.html
It grounds its output to turn on a warning lamp.
It is capable of operating a light bulb and is more configurable, whereas the one in the post can only operate a small LED and I don't think will operate the built in lamp
the high power module it even comes in an ABS box !
Chris of Spiyda Ltd.
I've got one of your Gauge wizards Chris, cracking bit of kit. Sorted out the issue with my faulty td5 speedo conversion not being able to drive the td5 fuel gauge or the low fuel light warning (which was on even with 1/2tank). Now i have a working low fuel light (with anti slosh) and a "brown" flashing fuel light.
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Pioneer maybe, the don't list Series but say they are custom made.
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Thanks Snagger, yes just trying to solve the HP line connection, it seems the 4.6 pump which has the 3 bolt holes and will take the 200tdi pulley is 95% of the way there, just need to see if i can find a hose with the 14/16mm banjo for the box and the o-ring/olive connection at the other or splice something up. The easier pump hydraulic wise looked to be the 2.5/4.0 but the pulley is fixed with an alen bolt/nut. It's just finding the path of least resistance/cost.
Pete
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Thanks when looking at P38 pumps there are some with banjo fittings and some with the steel pipe/o-ring straight out similar to oil cooler etc. Are the two interchangeable via the adapter boss?
Pete
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Have just received a new shiny chassis for the SWB Lightweight rebuild, had the P38 PS plate welded on at time of build. Keeping the original 2.25l 3 bearing petrol engine as its original to the release docs etc. Which steering pump will best drop onto the engine and where? P38 Pipes and reservoir have come with the box but wondering if i can swap the multi v pulley off a p38 pump and use e.g a defender 200 tdi waterpump pulley or something similar not a problem if it needs minor fettling/turning.
Also Planning to remove the idler assembly to fit a 200tdi 12v alternator.
TIA
Pete
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If you needed a reason to own one, it'll teach you loads whilst draining your bank account/wallet. 🙂
Pete
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you can use a tomtom or other gps to calibrate it on the way to the mot......
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I changed the one in the radiator at the same time, same part IIRC. Sort of jobs that should be done from the factory, like the useless porous pink P gasket on the water pump rear face. Or the water hose which runs over the alternator /ider area and rubs through the coolant hose coming off the thermostat/heater.
Pete
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I'd Replace Grill, radiator and headlight/s. The rest will straighten/add character.
Looking at it though i'd concentrate on the top of the bulkhead rust patches next 🙂
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FRC7329 Discs are correct for the wider spaced bearing rear stub axle FRC8540 (not the 300tdi) these are what i used along with the calipers Western mentions, these require the 6mm caliper spacer
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I found my td5 gauge converrsion had some messed up logic in the speedo, neither the temp gauge or fuel gauge worked correctly. I replaced the temp gauge with a vdo vision with matching 1/8 npt sender. The fuel gauge was adapted with the td5 gauge and a pcb gizmo called a gauge wizard. This is fully adjustable for any tank/sender/gauge and gives a low fuel light and a further flashing fuel indicator in lieu of a brown led. 🙂
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Which stub axles did you use? here is a quick list of what i bought, might not be 100%
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The fuse is there to protect the wiring which should be sized for the load connected to it. How thick is the wire feeding the rear screen?
15A should be plenty, are you sure the loom isn't chafed through in the chassis?
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western, most of the photos are broken?
I wouldn't waste money on the nut splitters, they likely wont go on in the limited space you have in the propshaft UJ. if it were me i'd drill from the side on the flats or grind then off then replace from the rear once you have the drum off. Try not to damage the uj flange/spider.
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lift pumps are cheap enough to change and forget £20?, could save that on a litre of fuel 🌚
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I just drew round the caliper bracket, then cut 2 out of 6mm plate
https://www.lrdirect.com/ftc3306-brake-calmper-bracket-90
Looking at my notes i did change the servo (although it isn't any bigger) and the pedal assembly as the bolts for the servo housing won't line up either 🙂, looks like £70 for a salvage unit around 2 years ago.
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some pics here, not mine. LR013168?
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One further thing to add is if you swap the drum brakes for discs, swap the master cylinder for a 300tdi (smaller piston area) type, the older drum/disc master i persisted with for so long was the cause of the low effort even when standing on the pedal. Now it's easier to lock the wheels. I upgraded the front discs to vented with the wider calipers, all in it adds real stopping power now.
Pete
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if you have the prop off measure across flats with a cheapo digital caliper, or use a divider to transfer onto a steel rule?
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bolts, longer for the caliper brackets +6mm for the spacer. I used some hd drive flanges with the nut caps on to allow the oil from the axle to the stub to lubricate.
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8 hours ago, Hawklord said:
I removed the sill and the tank dropped out 😊
Thanks all for the advice given.
no problem, it wasn't even my 90 i volunteered to help with. Mind you similar levels of fun can be had trying to remove and fit older 110 tanks without removing the sender/pickup first
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that's cheating, lol.
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I've done this job, it's a pig. remove or loosen the sill bolts and the upright bolts x2 into the seatbox. The other "fun part" is re attaching the filler and breather pipes through the wheelarch.
Pete
24v Wolf Alternator in 12v truck?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Spoiler alert that isn't a wolf alternator, more likely a series with the 589039 part number. Lucas CAV 60 Amp.