pete3000

a slide hammer and some heat, have you tried cranking it over? Pete

When i ran my td5 speedo up i used an old school advance j3b sig gen, analogue speed control 🙂 I found the freq point where it would drop out after the speedo was round the needle around 130+ mph (plus a bit). As i got near the mileage i wanted i throttled the frequency back to 50mph then later 20mph. Pete

The 12v and 0v for the gauges come from the loom on pin 1 and 2 not the speedo. My point was the drive signal for these comes from the td5 speedo as a pwm signal. See http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/gauges_diagram.pdf The fuel and temp sender inputs go straight into the speedo. If you want to keep your resistance 300tdi water temp gauge you'd need to break the red sender wire into plug B pin 5 and coming out of plug B pin 9 as pwm shown and use the dotted red wire. Fuel sender goes into speedo plug B pin 3 and comes out as pwm onPlug B pin 7 to use the Td5 PWM gauge. There is also an output on plug B pin 1 to wire into the low fuel light. neither of the gauge drive circuits worked on mine but the speedo did.....

I did the td5 dash speedo conversion a while back, the temp and fuel gauge didn't work correctly and sat at half way as someone mentioned above. I concluded the drive from the speedo head despite being wired up for ROW spec was duff. The speedo works fine however. I believe the td5 gauges work on PWM drive as I couldn't get much movement by shorting to + or -. I got a vdo vision temp gauge and sender which is nicely accurate in degrees c. The fuel gauge is taken care of with the td5 gauge and a gauge wizard from Spyda. This can be calibrated for fuel gauges/senders and other senders/gauges. A bonus was the output for the fuel low light which you can calibrate to flash at an even lower level to warn you of an impending walk.

no issues with either, a dayco belt is a recommendation though, The general state of play can be assessed by the amount of dust and fluff in the timing cover along with the mileage between belt changes. There are two types of idler pulley in the kit, one with a step or spacer and one without. Edit: it's also worth fitting a new securing bolt, every few goes especially if somone has been keen with the loctite. Pete

If it's gone that far the chances are the PVC or rubber insulation has probably gone brittle. Time to put some fresh in?

Re-doing the ones you have is also worth while. Don't rely on a crimp, fill with solder and cover with some glue lined heatshrink. Pete

https://www.toadalarm.com/product/sterling-touch-immobiliser/ They used to be defacto standard, not sure how they rate these days, but should fit the bill. i.e cat 2 approved, free mobile fitting in uk. The only thing not mentioned is price

Many cars, search A127 alternator. Made under several brands Lucas, Magnetti Marelli, Denso etc etc. Guessing as it's on a Land Rover forum it's also found in several LR applications i.e Defender/Discovery/series.

i shortened mine with the miketomcat method above, recover the barbed fittings without scratching with a knife. To soften pipes, boil a kettle and get a mug. Then dip the end of pipe in for a minute and push onto the barb fitting. Pete

closer spaced coils at the top normally, collects less debris and allows you to get retainer straps in easier. My tuppence. Pete

I add a splash at a time until it no longer drags when you stir it in the cup. Don't forget to wash the setup out at the end with some neat thinners blown through the gun.

https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/201270-Rear-door-latch-amp-lock-problem May be a useful starting point.

Is it the original chassis or replaced, or had the dumb irons renewed? it may not have the vin where it should be.

If it's going to be a daily drive, I'd want essential comforts such as aircon and heated screens instead of electric windows, airbags and sunroofs. Also look at fuel consumption between say the td5 and the tdci. Does the tdci have tilt and rake adjustment on the steering wheels? Pete

I'd be tempted to say a sticking clutch release bearing or clutch fork. Is this something that's gradually got worse? The cheaper clutch release bearings are plastic and have a tendancy to melt if the bearing gets warm. See threads around the clutch fork punching through. It worth checking the master slave first though as others have said.

You'd have to weld 2 pieces in each to keep the hood support bracket in the middle? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266045472228 Or ask them to put a tape on these at £30 each

The cheaper one will fail sooner, but being Lucas aka "the prince of darkness", you can be rest assured they will both fail when they are required to work. Pete

I'd go with the stalk switch. the resting position is for dipped beam, if the flash and high beam work?

1010mm hole centres. Sorry for the delay, weather and work impeded progress.

They aren't the same, ALR7971 (110) x4 and ALR7967 (90) x2. John Craddock shows stock? may be able to get a tape on one tomorrow. Pete

Try removing the led side lights then putting them back gradually. Which side is the number plate lamps or dash telltale? If you can rule out the led lights then i'd be looking for an incorrect ground reference. If you have a multimeter you can switch the sidelights on with engine running and follow the voltage backward removing relays/fuses as you go. Pete

No idea on original sealant, you could try sikaflex 295uv marine adhesive/sealant. see application guide for more info. i.e fibreglass

If you want to use aftermarket or different marque gauges, I can't speak highly enough of the gaugewizard from spiyda. Allows you to adjust/calibrate gauge and has lamp output for 2 levels for low and nearly empty. Used one for my td5 fuel gauge when the speedo output wouldn't work. Pete

I wasn't aware that narrow track trailers had a factory tailgate? do you have pictures of the plate/tailgate? Pete