drkwack

Hi, not 100% sure but dont think the disco running gear is right width for the lt wt, the s111 would need major work on its chassis to accept coils, if I was doing this probably go disco chassis and running gear with s111 body, trouble is its still major project, best of luck either way.

best to change air filter to a free flow type as well to try and keep fuel/air mix right, me I went down the Twisted Performance route, intercooler,silicone pipes,stainless exhaust system air filter and pump tweak the sound would keep J Clarkson (top gear) happy and the get up and go surprises most car drivers, I am the one with the ear to ear grin when I hit the loud pedal.

Hi, recently done mine, floor and sills as well, find as many of the spot welds as possible and drill them out. Use spot weld removal drill bit, or flatten a 10mm drill bit but try to leave a pip to help centre drill, try not to go through both skins as you will have to fill them in, hardest part is removing section attached to wings. I used a thin cutting disk and carefully trimmed bit by bit checking against the replacement,as with most body repairs look twice cut once, the replacement section I got didnt have the end infill sections with it so I folded some up to close ends to mud etc, enjoy

Hi, Ive recently done mine, but I didnt go as far as to remove the panel, remove the inner mud shield/foam strip get a waxoyl set ,remove the wheel gives better access, spray up inside the arch .Lot less hassle and pain also the panel is a pain to get right.

Hi, only recently escaped from my garage doing the same thing, I used the stuff from Frost restorations, a surface prep ( acid based keep away from eyes, stings like hell) then their Por 15 paint then underseal then waxoyl if this rusts through sod it Im off to the pub, seriously get back to good clean metal then use the prodoucts of choice, take care and have fun.

Hi, I'm a welder by trade an recently used a Clarke turbo90 to do both sides of my disco's sills inner and outer as well as the rear floor,rear xmember and front full headlight panel, personally any welding plant used correctly will do the job, buy the best you can afford (sell or keep it when finished) practice lots before tackling the job, as people have said try to get the full size bottle type as they do last longer, my clarke went through 10 small bottles, I live in Castleford West Yorks if it helps.

Hi welcome to the best disco manual available, everybody knows something we all forgot and is only to happy to help, as for the door post get some warm waxoyl down asap, do all of the rear as well up under the wheel arches as they rot here and you dont know until water is every where in the rear load space, just to check if you have the 2 rear fold up seats out remove the panel behind and check the body for rust other wise enjoy your self in the meantime.

Hi, as everybody seems to think its a compression test next, to change rings the way I did it was drain oil, drop sump and drop each piston and con rod one at a time, I couldnt glaze bust the bores this way though, so if you want to do it properly , head off as well and glaze bust from top and replace pistons from top, unless Jim .knows an easy way

Hi, its the rear body x member, if you do decide to remove it and replace be careful as to where you cut the original off. The replacement I got goes out and under the rear wings, I also had to box the ends in as they would have remained a dirt trap, this panel also forms part of the flange for the rear floor panel to sit on, look twice cut once, have fun .

This might seem an odd call, but the disco also has a problem with the alpine light windows, they leak and rot around the rubber seal, check this isnt a problem area as well as this if left unchecked will take the rear floor sides just behind the wheelarches out.

Hi dont know how you have sealed them but we did my brother in laws by cleaning the rubber seal with white spirit then used a weather proof silicone closed the sunroofs up to date they havent leaked, well if they have he hasnt said anything

THANKS for replys. take it I dont fit the 90's transfer box.

Hi, in the process of finally getting my disco back together, its a 95 300, my question is:- would i get better gear ratio's by fitting a transfer box from my old 200 def 90. Having fitted 235.85x 16 insa turbo dakars and 2" suspension, or wont it alter road gearing or not fit or no benifit ??????

Hi, mine is a 95 300 es, the b---dy thing ended up needing rear floor, sills, both inner and outer both sides and rear body xmember. Like an Idiot I paid £2000 for it with a years test,(me thinks he new some hooky garage) so at that price by it.Best of luck and enjoy

HI, might be wrong but sounds like a cracked manifold, as it warms up the crack seals up, as already suggested start car get someone to block tail pipe end and quickly look around and listen for a huffing sound,

My turn to be stupid, but isn't there a load of vacuum pipes nd wires to remove as well or do you leave these in place??????

Hi to all, my 300 used to do most of these after a dirty weekend, so when I got the chance, - engine running put the hose pipe behind alternator and flush it out .WATCH your FINGERS, then used to spray WD40 through it never had any probs after this, best of luck.

done a quick recap, the alarm ecu is in the passenger footwell small box green in colour with "lucas 10 AS " on it hope this helps.

Hi, a lot of us have been down the same road, Bogmonster has done a listing months ago, try putting in a search for alarms on the forum, you will be surprised by what comes up. If I remember correctly the spider has'nt got a lot to do with the alarm ( some body will correct me if I'm wrong), you can get away with leaving the disco's alarm on and not using the original key fob this saves a lot of head scratching and throwing of hammers around the garage, best of luck

Hi, glad to hear you have sorted out your sedimentor, my local dealer (not main dealer) say,s the amount of trouble they can cause it is worth removing it, any ideas?

Hi, thanks to those who posted info on getting photos on here, this is one reason you should learn to weld properly, the MOT guy fell about laughing when this was found,it's one of the rear body mounts the other was just as bad. Moto if it lkkos like **** it IS,

Hi, put car into 5th gear big breaker bar and 27mm (I think) socket and grunt , worked on my brother in laws this weekend, when we changed his timing belt, then two stage tighten it back up when finished. Torque setting and a further 90 degrees,

Please bear with me on this, engines and body work do that all day long, get my photos on here !!!! sod it Im of to pub, could one of you please tell me how to do this seemingly easy task,much appreciated, will feel like a true member when I can share my rot box with u,all

Chin up, stiff upper lip nd al that carp, but seriously take your time if you dont NEED tha car back on the road, like a pillock I started poking around the rear body cross member ( just below door but before bumper) and found some more rust so hands into my now empty piggy bank ( well grand sons) bought the panel and set to, word of WARNING this panel involves some serious care in removing.LOOK 3 times and then cut, when I figure out how to post photos will put some on, best of luck, the pub opens soon, Im off.

HI, I have bought a system inc intercooler from Twisted Performance at Thirsk, also ran their system on my 200 defender, initialy went down the economy road. To make it run cleaner you need to get the fuel in and out smoothly and quickly, larger surface intercooler makes the fuel in dense, air in through performance air filter means more air proper burn of fuel, exhaust gases out quick nice note and helps scavenge cylinders,you dont have to use extra performance but it is nice. Charlie at Twisted has time to explain and answer any questions you have,give him a call or visit web site, you will be pleased.