Ridgeback

Thanks for the info guys. I had another go last night and ended up drilling out and using a helicoil. The stud seemed welded in and I did not want to risk a broken extractor . Got to get torque wrench now because mine starts at 60nm and the book shows they are 25nm . Building back up should be the easy part .

Hello I am trying to get my 90 ready for a weeks camping trip leaving on Sunday and so far it's not going well. I have just had to remove the manifold and now have 2 stuck snapped studs to get out . The first one I started to drill it out and then it suddenly spun its self in further as I was drilling, resulting in a snapped drill bit left in. That one is not such a problem becaus it's further in then I need for the new stud. I would still like to remove this so I have ordered a larger left hand drill in the hope it will grip and wind out. The other stud is stuck solid. It seems harder and not so easy to drill out so I was going to try a left hand drill on it tomorrow. should I heat the stud and around the head first ? It's a big lump of ali so won't be easy to heat. Would it be ok to run it with the turbo and manifold off the get things warm again then add more heat with the gas burner ? I don't like the idea of snapping a stud extractor in there if it does not want to move . Was thinking of drilling it out and re tap or fit an insert . Never fitted one but it looks simple to do? The other problem is the induction hose will collapse under load causing total loss of power and lots of black smoke. It's running stage 2 map and IC. It also has a snorkel that won't be helping . I have looked at 90 deg Ali pipe bends available from demon tweeks and was thinking of replacing the end bit of rubber pipe that goes to the turbo, then using samco pipes to join both ends . The problem is then what to do with the breather pipe? I looked at an oil catch tank but I am sure they are still meant to vent back into the air intake? The best solution I can think of is to weld a tube to the new 90deg bend pipe to connect a vent pipe. However I don't have access to welding kit anymore and need a solution for this weekend. Any ideas on a quick fix. Possibly putting something into the rubber pipe to stop it collapsing . I can then find an engineering place to make a proper fix when I get back Matt

Could it be oil in the loom. Mine did a few odd things before I changed the loom Remove the red plug from the ECU, mine was dripping with oil. All fine now after changing it.

Thanks guys I will have ago tomorrow night if the weather holds

I have water getting in at the corners of the bulkhead and It's turning everything to rust . It looks like its the seal between the bulkhead and windscreen frame. Does the roof need to come off or can the frame be lifted a little by removing the hinges and a new seal pushed in? It's also (water) getting in via the windscreen seal so I have a new one ready to replace it with. Is this a job that's easy to do with some string and a willing assistant or should I take it to the pro's to do? My mate had his done by auto glass and he said they broke they first screen trying to replace it. Was this bad luck or are they easy to end up with broken glass ? Matt

With LEDs you really do get what you pay for. I run the UK lighting division for a large electronics company and we work with all the top names in LEDs. Lots of the low cost stuff is using low quality LEDs with very low CRI (as per the post from Simon above). They also tend to be very blue, this is because the cooler white , low CRI LEDs offer more flux (lumen output) for less money . The driver electronics (power supply), optics and heatsink are all areas that make the difference between a good product or a bad one regardless of what LED is used. On the plus side even the low quality stuff should last 10,000+ hrs and that's a long time in defender driving hrs. A good thing with LEDs is the ability to use optics to focus the usable light to get maximum light extraction in the place you want it. High CRI LEDs are now becoming available and the cost is coming down . LED performance is always getting better and now parts are available at performance above 150 lumens per watt . Light output is measured in lumens not watts. A poor quality 50w LED spot light might kick out less light vs a high quality 25w LED spot. Matt

I am doing this to my td5 at the moment . I am using one from a range rover td6 (the BMW 3L engine) it's the GT2256v . This is not a bolt on turbo. I am having a manifold flange made, building a 90deg exhaust bend to link the turbo to standard down pipe. I think I will need to make up new oil feed and return pipes and it's looking like the exhaust will need mods to. I have been told that Jeremy fearn had very good results from this turbo . He then tuned the 90 to 257bhp (it did have other mods) and this was tested on the rollers . It's not going to be easy and I am sure I will have to play about with things but It can be done. You can also use the bigger turbo fitted to some of the early e60 530d BMWs but I am not after total power. Looking at the cost of the standard VNT options from the turning companies, I am saving a little (total cost will be about £450) but for me it's more about playing around and making it work.

Edit iPhone posted twice

The ECU between early and late versions is different . The early ones are not flash programable like the later versions. I have been talking to a few of the tuning companies about getting my td5 mapped and asked about upgrading to the later ECU. They can flash the later ECU with the early files but I don't think you can go the other way. I have also been told the ECU between defender and disco is a little different, I think it was the fuel would read backwards, it would however run the engine. If your getting a later engine, I would just make sure you have the matching ECU. Might be worth talking to someone like Gary from Alive tuning or Ian from IRB developments to confirm.

Does anyone know what the one shot grease is? I have about 20L of lithium grease, can I use it or is the one shot stuff different ?

I would put some heat on the bolt first . Almost alway works when I can't get something to move . You might need to replace any seal effected by the heat after .

Depends on what version you have got. The early defender seals are rubber and glue into the bulkhead , the later version is a foam type and is stuck on the flap. My td5 had the later ones but it would still let water and air in so I purchased the early versions and they have fixed the problem.

I don't think the 200 has a electric pump, it's driven off the engine cam. This could need replacing but I would try the basics mentioned above first . Also the fuel filter could be blocked. My old 200tdi had an air leak in the pipe work and this caused it to do the same as yours.

Just driven past billing and it does not look good after even more rain today. The river and the boat lake look like they will flood if we see any more rain. Without 2 weeks of sun, I can't see how the show can happen.

The resin stuff is really good, I have used hilti cem fix when I worked in the entertainment industry, we used it for putting security bolts into walls and concrete ceilings that would act as a safety point to clip to when working at hight. They all got load tested and we never had one fail .

I have a 90 but the same goes for other landrovers, I hate leaving it anywhere because they are not hard to nick if you know what your doing. I have taken to leaving my iPhone hidden inside because it can be tracked on google maps. This got me thinking about looking for a tracker. Has anyone seen and/or used any of the trackers on eBay costing around £40-80 each. They all look like they come from the same china manufacturer. The DIY trackers don't need a monthly subscription and text or call you if your landrover moves. They can then be tracked on google maps . Regards Matt

I really would not bother starting it, if it ran when removed , has been stored in a dry location and still turns over ok, then it should be fine. I fitted a 200tdi that had been sat in a damp barn for 10 years. I took the head off to have a look but it started no problem.

I know a defender is never going to be hard to get into, but you would need to smash or remove some glass. I just want to be able to stop anyone walking past from getting in with such little effort.

The system Xeng has looks like the best option I have seen if you want the best of both on road and off road , thinking of getting one myself once I have all the other little jobs sorted and my DIY VNT big turbo up and running

Hi I am trying to get my landrover in better shape and have started making a list of items to fix and parts to purchase . The door locks open with any key that fits the in the lock. My last 90 was the same but it's value was less and it was only used for pay and play days. I want to keep this one so looking at trackers but I want to be able to lock the doors . It's a 2000 w plate td5 (300tdi type dash) Question 1 Do any of them lock and work with only the correct key or are they all like it? Question 2 A lock barrel set is under £15 but will have britpart on the bag, is the landrover OEM part any better Other options Some how blank off the 2 front doors and fit central locking then fit something externally to the rear door and keep a standard barrel on the back so I have a way of getting in should the Central locking pack up. Thanks guys

Thanks for the info, think I will go with the wiggle it option then.

Thanks guys Going to clean up all the stuff that's also growing in the current window runners before putting the new stuff in . Do the frames have to be removed to get the glass out ?

Hello I am going over my 90 fixing some of the little bits that I have never got round to doing and this included fixing the rear sliding window rattles. Does anyone know if the felt channel is available and who might sell some. I use the windows so can't just seal them up to fix the problem. Thanks

Thanks again for your help, might even get it all off without any broken trim! I plan to take the dash out and also soundproof the bulkhead and under the seat boxes. If I can make it a little less like a tractor, the fun prevention officer might drive it when I want driving back from the pub

Thanks guys Sorry Ralph, did see your post above, just was not sure how to remove the trim still. All clear now . I will have another go at it, my roof lining is saging and I need to take the sides off to fit the mud stuff bulkhead bar, thought I would stick some sound proofing behind the trim once it's all off . Regards Matt