rick
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Posts posted by rick
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and what is the g/box ??
Is it an R380 moded with an extra cog, or is it out of a transit (or something else) ?
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and I hope the trip (or at least a substantial portion) was tax deductible, Paul.
Looks like you had fun.
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right Ok where do i start
Rego
Rego is road tax. But the differance in Aus it that this will inculde 3rd party insurance called CTP. This is bought from the Queensland transport.
Rego goes on amount of pots in the engine. In other words a V8 is more expensive than a Tdi. You then get fully comp if you want like you would in the Uk
When you buy a car in Aus you will have to pay 2% of the purchase price to the Goverment when you put the car into your name. This is all cars new and old. Also to buy and sell a car it has to have a roadworth (MOT, but a joke compaired to it, most Aussie have a fit when you tell them what they do to our cars in the uk when they MOT them) But once you have bought a car and got rego on it . You will never ever need to get another Roadworthy (MOT) ever again while you own the car .
so no MOT every year. But this is Queensland rules.You will need a home address to put the car into same as you would need to do in the Uk. (remeber Aus once belonged to us, so alot of the laws are the same as in the uk as we gave them to them
.)if choosing to live in another state, rego rules are different, eg. in most of the other states a yearly rego check/vehicle inspection is mandatory. In NSW this includes a vehicle brake test and the CTP insurance component is separate to your rego and by private insurance companies, so you can shop around for the best quote. As my 'fender came from the NT, I couldn't just transfer rego, I had to obtain a major inspection from a specialist inspector (known here as a blue slip) before I could register it.
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Have drained the ATF and refilled with the 5W20 full synthetic which so far seems to be have helped a bit when cold.
Cheers,
5w-20 engine oil ??
what about MTF 94 or Castrol Syntrans ? real manual gearbox fluids ? or just learn to double de-clutch like the rest of us, no need for stinking synchros then
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can't see them selling too many here when Ford have downsized the engine and Toyota have just released a new 70 series with a common rail intercooled 4.5 litre V8 turbo diesel. 151kw (202HP) 430 Nm (320 lb/ft ?) which peaks at 1200RPM and has a dead flat torque curve all the way to 3200RPM.
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Jim, one of the blokes on the AULRO forum has a Land Rover garage in Tasmania and he confirmes what Les and Stephen said, that in his experience the Valeos tend to disintegrate whereas the B&B's eventually just wear out. Having said that, one Valeo he swapped out had 230,000km on it and the plate still had plenty of meat on it. It was only changed as they were in there replacing the rear main seal.
As a consequence of the type of centre failures he's seen with some Valeo's, he only supplies and fits B&B's.
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of course if you fit an RTC3511 hub seal and remove the axle tube seal you will have no spline wear thanks to the diff oil lubing things. Just like an eighties 110.
That's all everyone does here after fitting Maxi axles.
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John, big problem with the Clevo is that it and it's bits aren't really available anywhere except here. IIRC it was only made in the US for a couple of years before production switched to Oz. Even DeTomaso sourced their engines from Ford Oz.
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Maxi Drive make different thickness intermediate thrust washers to enable extra engagement depth of the high range engagement dogs. (4mm vs 3mm)
Could be handy in a high torque application.
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remember that most aftermarket springs are a heavier rate than stock, yet usually the same free height or shorter (depending on rate)
Better to work out how much the front end sags with the winch/bar and get some springs the same rate but longer than stock. This keeps your ride and off road articulation.
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Q. What do Geraint Jones and Michael Jackson have in common?
A. They both wear gloves for no apparent reason
Q. What is the height of optimism?
A. An English batsman applying sunscreen.
Q. What does Ashley Giles put in his hands to make sure the next ball almost always takes a wicket?
A. A bat.
Q. What would Glen McGrath be if he was an Englishman?
A. An all-rounder.
Q. What advantage do Kevin Pieterson, Andrew Strauss and Geraint Jones have over the rest of their team-mates?
A. At least they can say they're not really English.
Q. What is the English version of a hat-trick?
A. Three runs in three balls.
Q. What do you call an Englishman with 100 runs against his name?
A. A bowler.
Q. What is the most proficient form of footwork displayed by English batsmen?
A. The walk back to the pavilion.
Q. Who has the easiest job in the English squad?
A. The guy who removes the red ball marks from the bats.
Q. Why is Andrew Flintoff the unluckiest English player?
A. Because he was born in England .
Q. What does "Ashes" stand for?
A. Another Sad Horrific English Series.
Q. What's the English version of LBW?
A. Lost, Beaten, Walloped.
Q. Who spends the most time on the crease of anyone in the English team?
A. The person who ironed the cricket whites
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Yes, well you ARE Australian!
Les.
care to discuss the cricket, Les ??
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as GBMUD suggested, a Safari snorkel picks up the OE hose, which is 2,3/8" (61mm) ID (or convesely, the snorkel has a 2,3/8" OD spiggot)
I reckon this is too restrictive and chopped it further back where it is 3" OD so that I could replace the entire hose between the wing and air cleaner with an 80mm ID hose.
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IIRC my 200Tdi's factory fitted Valeo plate did around 140,000 miles before it gave up, so I'll be more than happy if this Valeo [fitted last weekend] goes the same distance
I'm just about to click over 205,000km with the OE clutch, and I hope it keeps going for sometime yet.
(have I just put the mocca on myself ??
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one of the fella's on OL and AULRO, Justin, has a Land Rover garage and prefers B & B plates to Valeo, as he reckons the Valeo ones break up after time. He says they wear very well, just tend to fall apart, although to be fair some of his customers have gone well over 200,000km with the original clutch (both B & B and Valeo)
He uually fits 130 plates.
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you gents need to read and distribute this
Reason Foundation free minds and free markets--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Commentary
Reason.org
July 19, 2006
Have You Hugged a Hummer Today?
Hybrid vehicles' overall energy costs exceed those of comparable non-hybrids
By Shikha Dalmia
Ford Motor Company did itself a huge favor recently by backing away from its pledge to bump-up its hybrid production ten-fold in four years. But, as it turns out, the company might have done the planet a whale of a favor too.
Just last fall, CEO Bill Ford was valiantly promising in a mega-million dollar ad campaign that the company would never, ever turn away from its hybrid pledge because these vehicles were central to the company's reputation as an "innovator and environmental steward."
Never mind that at the time Ford was losing $2,000 to $3,000 for every hybrid it sold because consumers won't pay the entire $6,000 extra that it costs to produce a hybrid over its gas-powered counterpart. Never mind also that in the real world -- outside of the Environmental Protection Agency's tax-payer funded testing sites -- hybrids don't deliver anywhere close to the gas mileage that the agency attributes to them, as auto-writer Richard Burr reported in the Weekly Standard.
Bill Ford had given his word on hybrids and you could take that to the bank (ruptcy court). But hybrids have received such a thrashing in the market lately that even Ford was forced to take-off his green eye-shades and read the red-ink on the wall.
According to Art Spinella, the uber-auto analyst and President of CNW Marketing Research, hybrid sales every month this year have been down compared to the same time last year. Even sales of the Toyota Prius – the darling of the greens – have dropped significantly. The only segment besides taxis where hybrids are still holding steady – taxpayers will be happy to note -- is the car fleets maintained by the government.
What's particularly interesting is that individual consumers are defying all expectations and turning their backs on hybrids at a time when gas prices are soaring. (The average U.S. retail price of gas spiked to a record high of $3.01 last September following hurricane Katrina, and just last week it hit its second highest price ever at nearly $3.00.) Nor is the reason all that mysterious. Spinella's customer satisfaction surveys show that 62 percent of hybrid owners are dissatisfied with the fuel-economy performance of their cars given what they have paid for them.
This means that when gas prices go up, these people don't rush out to buy more hybrids. "They buy a Chevy Aveo," says Spinella. "It delivers the same fuel economy as a Prius, but at half the price."
Consumer interest might revive if the cost of hybrids goes down substantially – or the cost of fuel goes up and stays up for a long period of time, Spinella believes. Until then, however, the hybrid market is unlikely to come out of the deep freeze, a reality that even Ford had to finally acknowledge.
But despite all these drawbacks, hybrids are at least better for the environment than say….. a Hummer, right? Nope.
Spinella spent two years on the most comprehensive study to date – dubbed "Dust to Dust" -- collecting data on the energy necessary to plan, build, sell, drive and dispose of a car from the initial conception to scrappage. He even included in the study such minutia as plant-to-dealer fuel costs of each vehicle, employee driving distances, and electricity usage per pound of material. All this data was then boiled down to an "energy cost per mile" figure for each car (see here and here).
Comparing this data, the study concludes that overall hybrids cost more in terms of overall energy consumed than comparable non-hybrid vehicles. But even more surprising, smaller hybrids' energy costs are greater than many large, non-hybrid SUVs.
For instance, the dust-to-dust energy cost of the bunny-sized Honda Civic hybrid is $3.238 per mile. This is quite a bit more than the $1.949 per mile that the elephantine Hummer costs. The energy cots of SUVs such as the Tahoe, Escalade, and Navigator are similarly far less than the Civic hybrid.
As for Ford cars, a Ford Escape hybrid costs $3.2 per mile – about a third more than the regular Escape. But on the whole, ironically enough, the dust-to-dust costs of many of the Ford non-hybrids – Fusion, Milan, Zephyr – are not only lower than comparable Japanese hybrids – Prius, Accord -- but also non-hybrids – Seville, Civic.
Spinella's finding that a Hummer on the whole consumes less energy than a hybrid than even some smaller hybrids and non-hybrids has infuriated environmentalists. And on its face it does seem implausible that a gas-guzzling monster like a Hummer that employs several times more raw material than a little Prius' could be so much less energy-intensive. But by and large the dust-to-dust energy costs in Spinella's study correlate with the fanciness of the car – not its size or fuel economy -- with the Rolls Royces and Bentleys consuming gobs of energy and Mazda 3s, Saturns and Taurus consuming relatively minuscule amounts.
As for Hummers, Spinella explains, the life of these cars averaged across various models is over 300,000 miles. By contrast, Prius' life – according to Toyota's own numbers – is 100,000 miles. Furthermore, Hummer is a far less sophisticated vehicle. Its engine obviously does not have an electric and gas component as a hybrid's does so it takes much less time and energy to manufacture. What's more, its main raw ingredient is low-cost steel, not the exotic light-weights that are exceedingly difficult to make – and dispose. But the biggest reason why a Hummer's energy use is so low is that it shares many components with other vehicles and therefore its design and development energy costs are spread across many cars.
It is not possible to do this with a specialty product like hybrid. All in all, Spinella insists, the energy costs of disposing a Hummer are 60 percent less than an average hybrid's and its design and development costs are 80 percent less.
One of the most perverse things about U.S. consumers buying hybrids is that while this might reduce air pollution in their own cities, they increase pollution – and energy consumption -- in Japan and other Asian countries where these cars are predominantly manufactured. "In effect, they are exporting pollution and energy consumption," Spinella says.
But while the environment has dodged Ford's hybrid foray, Toyota has shown no planetary concerns. It is going full throttle ahead with its plan of putting one million hybrids on the road by the end of the decade. Nor is there much hope that it will back-off in the near future given that it has already sunk $2 billion just in hybrid-related research and development, Spinella points out. Ironically Ford and some of the other car makers' exit from the hybrid segment means that Toyota will be able to consolidate its domination in it even more.
Thus the only hope of prodding Toyota to get out of the hybrid business would be if its customers jumped off the Prius bandwagon and embraced non-hybrids – even Hummers -- instead.
Now here's a catchy slogan for the next Save the Earth campaign: Have you hugged a Hummer today?
Shikha Dalmia is a senior policy analyst at Reason Foundation. An archive of her work is here and Reason's environment research and commentary is here.
complete article can be found here http://cnwmr.com/nss-folder/automotiveenergy/
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No, they need to sit in an oil bath for cooling. AFAIK The bearings are pressure lubricated, with the lid off and when warm they'll fling oil a good couple of feet radius all over the place. The oil runs down the inside of the housing for cooling and some of the mist gets sucked into the pump.
naa, those little suckers are only splash feed
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I'm going to do that when my zorst goes. It should decrease back-pressure, get the turbo to spin up faster and all for a small increase in noise (I hope). But my zorst is still good at 11years and 150k miles. That's the trouble with living on the highveld
ps. earlier this year we fitted a turbo (from Oz) to a Nissan 4.2 six fitted to a SIIB 110" fc. We had the exhaust system made with NO silencers, and it was still quieter than the original.
But apparently it is illegal in the UK to not have a silencer at all. I suppose you could make a fake one to fool the feds.
Jim, I doubt if you'd feel any difference in swapping out the muffler as it's a straight through, perforated tube centre box on a 300Tdi, and is a larger ID than the exhaust pipe.
FWIW, the 3" system on mine was unbearably loud sans muffler or resonator. SWMBO reckons she could hear me 5km away and the drone at 100km/h was dreadful so installed a 12" resonator right at the rear of the system. Much better.
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No - free air.
hmm, dunno then.
A cap start motor will start fine under load, it's the little ones used in domestic frig/freezers that are gutless.
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<snip>
Don't know about NZ but Aus you have to off road just to get to most places
:lol: yep, each day I leave the house it's an adventure. -
I like experimental tech! Keep it up.
Going down a similar but alternative track, wouldn't a rotary aircon compressor like a Sanden from a range rover be fairly quiet if driven by a belt from a 240v electric motor?
Regards,
Diff
this is how some of the heavy duty refrigerant recovery units work. Javac use a Sanden compressor driven off a 240V motor, with an oil separator in the discharge line feeding the oil back to the compressor.
And FWIW, Sanden's are a positive displacement compressor (current ones are mostly 7 cylinder) activated by a swashplate. The model # is the giveaway. eg. SD7H15 = 7 cylinder, approx 150cc.
The only downside is that the oil they use OE is PAG (polyalkylglycol) which is horrifically hygroscopic and not really compatible with anything else. I think that the old OE mineral oil was either an ISO 46 or 68 oil, around 7-8 cSt @ 100*C.
Endless Air use a Sanden with (supposedly) grease in the sump. Not sure what they've done to make that work.
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That's what stops the motor, but why does it only start tripping after being disconnected from the rest of the fridge for a couple of days?
It trips due to overcurrent, this induced by the motor running sluggishly which is caused by the oil being contaminated? At this point the compressor still has its original oil in. The effect is much greater with the thicker oil and lower temperature.
In a fridge that has been switched off for a while there would be no cold suction vapour anyway, but would the fridge still have difficulty starting?
Is it trying to start against a 'head' ??
these little motors have bugger all starting torque and require pretty much zero pressure differential between suction and discharge at start-up otherwise they stall, another nail in the coffin for air compressor use.
In a refrigerator/freezer, a capllary is used as the expansion device which effectively unloads the compressor on the off cycle, enabling start up.
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has anyone logged any numbers (air in, out vs ambient) for the after market I/C's to compare to OE ??
How efficient (how close to ambient) can they get vs pressure drop ??
very curious to see fair dinkum numbers.
Also remember that after being cooled nicely by the I/C, the air hit's an inlet plennum that is superheated nicely by the exhaust manifold and turbo below it. Some insulation there would be a good idea.
FWIW, Tdi's seem to respond well to good exhaust mods, at least on a long 130 system. Quicker spool up and ability to use more revs easily.
The biggest surprise was my 3" mandrel bent system dropped max EGT's over 20*C on my test hill. Gives more room for manouvering with pump (and in concert with I/C) mods
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That bit Rick mentioned about the oil being hygroscopic could explain the phenonomen whereby the motor switches on and off fine after first removing it from the fridge* but after a day or so it has difficulty starting - contaminated oil!
* NB Tree Huggers - the fridge I'm experimenting on got damaged whilst lifting it off the back of a lorry and no gasses were released into the atmosphere whilst it was in my posession.
more than likely overheating and tripping out the thermal overload due to no cold suction vapour. This is usually a simple 'klixon' type bi-metal arrangement, arranged alongside the relay.
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Moving to Oz - Some questions please
in International Forum
Posted
doesn't surprise me at all Ali, generally rules and regulations, licences, fees, taxes (eg stamp duty) etc are much higher here than Qld or the other states.