ballcock
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Posts posted by ballcock
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I would hang the doors first then fit the parts. Make sure you fit the latches first, if you are fitting new runners mark the frames where the self tappers go in and use the old runners as cutting templates. Take your time they aren't difficult just fiddly.
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Where possible I use two hammers im;pacting on opposite sides, all you need is a slight deflection in the cone for it to come apart. I have never used that type of splitter I used to use the fork type you hit in between but these ruin the rubbers.
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I would strip the old engine first and see what actually needs replaceing.
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Have you checked the chassis to make sure it's square? Check the rear axle is parallel to the chassis with a straight edge along the wheel rims. Has it got a lift kit as this will move the front axle to one side if not using an adjustable panhard rod?
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I replaced the lock on mine after some scum nicked keys from my lock up, I was able to get a pair of locks with matching keys from some one on Ebay. If you are buying a new lock it might be worth considering buying a set of locks with matching keys to use on other things on the truck save having to have multiple keys for various locks.
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4 minutes ago, Red90 said:
I'm sorry but you are wrong. I've been designing complex control systems for decades and building and designing testing facilities. Controlling on the engine temperature is the correct way and prevents swings in engine temperature leading to shock. This is how every car with an electric fan built in the world works.
As I say a can of worms, I have my opinion and you are entitled to yours.
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On 3/25/2019 at 7:01 PM, Red90 said:
That is people setting up the fan control wrong. They use the radiator outlet temperature as the control. You want to use the inlet line as it is the engine temperature you are controlling, not the radiator. With the control in the right place, there are no temperature swings beyond what is normally seen with a thermostat.
You certainly need a good fan in certain situations. Off road is most situation, it is needed. Any long climbs that are not at motorway speed. Basically any situation that you use it for what it was intended....
This is a different can of worms. The fan only needs to run if the radiator is not doing its job. That is how the viscous unit works, so the temp control should be on the return or low level on the radiator. a better system would be a two stage temp control with either two fans or high and low speeds. Let the fight begin.
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12 hours ago, Ishanand said:
Hello ,
My vehicle is back on the road. Took it for a long run this weekend. On the way back another driver pulled up alongside and told me that the rear of the vehicle was off from the front. I am sorry but I just cannot describe this properly. When I got home I took a look underneath and noticed that the lower link on the right back was a bent a bit. I have not taken the vehicle to be aligned as yet. Note when I got into the accident last year the rear ball joint assembly was damaged and had to be replaced.
Here is a pic of my vehicle.
The term used is normally "crabbing" when the rear wheels do not follow the line of the front. If your trailing arm is bent it will cause this as it pulls the rear axle out of alignment with chassis. a replacement will hopefully correct it, but it would be worth checking the chassis for twist. easiest way to this would be to measure diagonally from four points on the chassis extremities and ensure they are equal. I believe there is a post on the forum describing this check somewhere.
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4 hours ago, Farmerfred said:
Forgive me if I am wrong but I believe that if you have a 110 with more than 7 seats you are required to have a PSV license to be able to drive it because it puts it in the class of a minibus. Something else to be considered.
No, but newer licence holders are limited to the number of seats. As an old git I can still drive a twelve seater, as long as it's not for hire or reward. My 110 is a daily driver, I find it perfectly adequate in modern driving conditions. comfortable enough with reasonable fuel consumption. My Disco 1 V8 on the other hand is running on heavy duty springs feels every bump and drinks like a fish.
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I thought the pump shaft had a woodruff key to align it on the shaft but having just checked a spare pump I have, there is a key slot on the shaft but not on the pulley adaptor so theoretically it would be possible to do as you suggest. Personally for the effort required and the risk of getting it wrong I would pull the case cover and do it properly. The extra effort to remove the pump to fit the boost ring whilst the timing is being sorted is minimal. Just realised 300 tdi mines a 200tdi.
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Having stripped the cartridge out. i decided to buy a new standard unit. Ordered Thursday, arrived Friday, fitted Sunday less than £100. All up and running nicely.
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6 hours ago, cackshifter said:
Or, you could always throw money at it linky .
All that bling and none of it on show.
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32 minutes ago, Green200tdi said:
so the 110 is in sick bay at present awaiting two belts power steering and alternator i find it amazing im unable to get these two belts just because i don't have a registration number,
do people remember going to there local car shop on the hi street and he knew without a computer what part you needed for your car?
This is why I try to get a part number first.
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I had tried a 1/2" AF but it was as loose as a 13mm , I then tried an old 1/2" AF ring spanner which fitted perfectly I snapped one bolt undid 2 but the last has rounded off so I shall cut the head off as I only want the cartridge. 1/2" AF should be 12.7mm but the tolerances on some are just too much. Will take more care dismantling the Defender one. Still haven't decided whether to get a new hybrid unit.
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9 hours ago, ianmayco68 said:
Forgot all about this thread , how bad is it ballcock? As this was for an uprated chra cost £275 from turbo rebuild off eBay. But my opinion for what it’s worth , if you’re buying a new turbo then I’d go for a vnt one , as there’s not much in the price, if you’re fitting a new chra and doing it yourself then yes , turbo spools up quicker and gives more lower down .
Unfortunately it needs replacing, although I have a turbo off a Discovery 200 TDi it's the wrong orientation. If having to strip two apart to make a serviceable unit. I just wondered if it would be more beneficial to bite the bullet and buy a new cartridge. As a side question what size are the bolts holding the cartridge to the exhaust side as they seem to be a little shy of 13mm but a bit bigger than 12mm?
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Reviving an old thread as my turbo has just thrown it's toys out, what was the consensus on these hybrid turbos, are they worth fitting or no extra benefit?
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Try the gauze off a stainless steel sieve.
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Can you hear the fuel pump run when you turn the ignition on? I have had two that the supply to the pump is problematic due to the connector in the passenger foot well getting corroded by water ingress. The plug which is tucked up on the side of the passenger foot well needs to be pulled apart and apply some contact cleaner, connect and disconnect the plug a few times to improve contact.
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2 hours ago, Sharp said:
Thanks for the suggestions, had a chance to look at it yesterday and it just turned out to be the fuse for the controller. I must have touched the wires together and blown it while I was swapping over.
Glad to hear it's sorted.
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On the early Webasto's the only difference between the petrol and diesel versions was the gauze the fuel burnt on I'm not sure about the newer versions. If you get a parts manual you may see which parts are common to both. I personally would have a diesel unit with a second tank which allows you to run the heater on red diesel or heating oil. I have just picked up a newer unit to replace my old one but this needs a canbus signal to operate it came out of a VW. So I am looking for a timer or telestart at the right price.
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As said, take them out clean them up and refit with a non-setting sealant similar to that used on caravan windows. Allows for the different expansion rates.
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1 minute ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Is that an actual Webasto controller as I'm sure I've seen those modules from eBay china for about a fiver
No that's just a stand alone timer you can buy similar to run almost anything.
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If your clock is powering up then it's getting a suitable supply which means either the switch isn't operating or the crimps aren't quite right. use a multi meter and check input voltage and also the voltage output at the terminals. The light on the clock probably only lets you know that the heater should be on. if you haven't got a multi meter then use the old bulb holder method.
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I have no experience with the T-max pump, but if it is similar to my Ring pump ensure that if you change the fitting it is permanently open. The pump must not be isolated as there is no safety valve system.
Anyone Know Where The Disco 1 'Windscreen Leak' Hole Is?
in Discovery Forum
Posted
If your Discovery is anything like one of mine it could be anywhere, I have removed the windscreen and found numerous places around the edge where it has rusted through. The worst places were along the top on the passenger side and the bottom corner on the drivers side where about three sections meet on the top of the A post bend. This area can be checked by removing the front wings and you can then also see how much of the lower A post is solid.