Boro

The later ones did have plastic tanks yes but a) the filler is in a different location, b) im not so sure its a straight fit and not prepared to spend lots of money to find out it doesnt fit (and im not cutting or welding my galvernized chassis) and finally c) if i go for a custom tank i can increase the capacity, this was the pump/sender unit i was thinking of using http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/10045/PRC9409-IN-TANK-FUEL-PUMP-SENDER-UNIT-V8.html?search=%20PRC8499&page=1

My 71 range rover is fitted with a 4.2 v8 from and lse and used a single vent efi fuel tank from a post 86 range rover, as the fuel tank has had it and im not impressed with the aftermarket tanks in terms of quality etc and the cost of a genuine tank is silly money i am looking into having a custom tank in stainless steel, to keep it all as simple as possible i was thinking it may be an idea to use a later fuel pump with combined sender rather than two seperate units, has anyone else here used the later sender and pump assembly in an early vehicle or know whether the gauge will read correctly if i do so

Whilst searching for a company that either sold or could make a stainless steel fuel tank for a range rover classic i came across this http://www.reedx.net/landrover/mods/fueltank/index.htm its a long shot i know but is the owner of the vehicle those pictures are of on here or does anyone know either who the owner is or who made that tank or where i can get one similar, thanks

I went for a steel tank and cradle in the end as im pushed for time and couldnt chance a plastic tank not fitting, the replacements are supposedly bearmach parts (no names on them though) but the cradle just isnt right for the tank and would need work to get it to fit, tried the cradle from the old tank which fits ok but theres a gap between the cradle and tank at the front and the rear on the vertical sections, does this really matter? the old tank was clearly a replacement and was spotless but when built new they had spot welded the cradle to the tank and sealed the tank to the cradle before coating it in paint meaning the bare metal section the cradle covererd was able to just rust away new tank will get a good covering of waxoyl before i fit the cradle

Does anyone happen to know whether the later plastic tanks will bolt straight in to earlier vehicles? i realise the pump and sender arrangement is different, just wondering whether its worth fitting a plastic tank rather than steel

Its not behind the glovebox itself, if you remove the lower trim in the passenger footwell (the black card one hiding the heaters fan) there is a fold down steel cradle with some electrics on, should be on there nearest the bulkhead from memory

Have you checked the central locking ecu, its in the passenger footwell under the dash but can get damp and give troubles

thanks for the offer but i will be going for a new tank

Thats a different tank to mine, after studying many pictures of fuel tanks comparing them to mine i fancy this is the one i need http://www.numcat.ru/landrover/p/38/48812/

Im trying to work out which fuel tank i need for my 71 rangerover which is fitted with a 4.2 efi engine as the current tank is leaking, paddocks list only one tank to 1985 which is part number 575601 what i want to know is there any difference between the carb and injection tanks? do i need a later tank to match the injection system? thanks

The 265's are close but dont catch even when fully loaded and a loaded trailer on the back, its got a pair of mad airbag helpers on the rear though (previous owner) which probably explains that, wheels and hubs where both nice and clean, will be a few days until im well enough to have another look but i do wonder if maybe the hub design changed in the 80's when landrover brought in alloy wheels as i know that the haynes manual said about changing wheel stud and hub assemblies to fit alloys

It seemed to clear the flanges alright with plenty of room (i had the centre cap out and a torch to hand) but i will have another look when i have shaken this damn cold

You should be able to buy the hoses from www.lrseries.com alternatively if you buy fuel filter NTC5958 (early range rover classic efi iirc) that filter has 8mm stubs for standard fuel hose to push on

I bought my 71 classic fitted with steel modulars shod with 265 70 16 tyres which although they have grown on my i would like to swap over for the set of freestyle wheels and tyres from my old discovery, i recently trial fitted one of the wheels but it wouldnt seat properly on the hub even after cleaning up the spigot area of the hub of all traces of paint and rust its just slightly too tight, has anyone here fitted freestyle wheels to an early range rover classic and can tell me what is involved in getting them to fit properly (i dont want to run spacers i would sooner have the hubs machined) i am aware i will need to chance my wheel studs for the correct type for alloy wheels so the hubs will need to come off anyway (also need to chance the discs at the same time)

You can get them for early cars as my 71 has them, a quick google reveals these http://www.polybush.co.uk/shop/view/21_To_1986/5_Kit_3_-_Land_Rover_Range_Rover_%28To_1986%29 but im sure theres many others

I have removed two in recent months, the first i spent many hours on before i realised the trick the second took all of 10 minutes then, undo the nut until its flush with the end of the threaded shaft, get yourself a decent puller (i bought a 10 ton hydraulic puller for about £60 on ebay) get the puller on the arm and done up tight, gently heat the arm with a blowtorch whilst holding the puller with one hand (mind where you put your fingers) try and keep the flame off the shaft and on the arm and after a few minutes the arm should come off, i managed to get the arms off without damaging any seals, if your worried about damaging seals then as said by others carefully cut a slot in the arm

I have been giving the coolant some more thought, the coolant leak wasnt apparent until after i tightened the coolant reservoir cap as i noticed it was loose and was hissing (not losing coolant from the cap though), only had this vehicle a few months so dont really know the history, could be the previous owner left the cap a little loose knowing that when done up tight the coolant would leak... test kits on ebay are £43, i know i shouldnt but if it is headgasket and the heads need to come off (see no point doing just one for the effort in stripping etc) what aftermarket head and cam options are there for the 4.2

No the engine doesnt overheat temp gauge needle sits where it should, did a 50 mile trip last week and the coolant level didnt drop, it had crossed my mind that a head gasket could be suspect but if it is its very early stages, may see if i can grab a block test kit and test it

Can probably be found cheaper still but http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/mass-airflow-sensor-9902-bosch-mhk100800g-p-4032.html

My 1971 rangerover is fitted with a 4.2 v8 from an lse, it appears to be leaking oil from the valley gasket (oil sat on the gasket and dripping down the front of the engine) as well as losing coolant from somewhere around the manifold as theres coolant on the valley gasket as well, i have been putting this job off for a number of reasons the main one being jobs like this normally spiral (i could find i need to replace the tappets and cam whilst im in there) but realy need to sort it out now, theres two types of end seals listed for the clamps that hold down the valley gasket how do i tell which my engine needs? is the composite valley gasket better than the pressed tin one? neither the oil temp or oil pressure gauges work which may be a result of missing senders or wiring im not sure but where should the two senders be located on the engine? would be nice to get these working so i can keep an eye on things, do the v8 engines have a drain plus for the coolant? the coolant loss seems strange its not losing a lot of coolant and if you take the cap of several days after last running the engine the system still has pressure or maybe its vacuum due to the leak, im going to replace the thermostat and housing gasket whilst im in there along with changing the oil and filter and coolant but is there anything else i should be doing at the same time?

I dont know where you are as you dont say but i have a complete non airbag dash here if its of any use to you

This is the low pressure stuff they supplied http://www.centuryhose-ltd.com/25-bar-multi-purpose-as.html

I did eventually find a uk source of the m16 adapter but not the m14 so have ordered some from the states, fingers crossed they arrive quickly, the hose i bought from the local hydraulic place (and they knew it was for pas) for the return and the reservoir to pump is oil/air/fuel hose are you saying red 90 driver this is not up to atf?

Good find mav thanks and shipping is very very reasonable i will see what they can do, cant even contact the other two ebay sellers of them as they seem to have blocked questions from outside of the us

Will try a few hgv places tomorrow i already have a load of emails out waiting for replies, agent nomad i cannot see this particular type of adapter in their catalogue, landy v8 again those arent what im looking for i want them with a male o ring flare fitting one end, zardos tried that no one locally is able to do male o ring flares, yes i could cobble something together but the point of this excercise was to get some adapters which will allow me to run hydraulic hoses that any hydraulic place can make rather than something very custom which if it failed somewhere abroad would leave me with a big headache...