rusty_wingnut
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Posts posted by rusty_wingnut
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check the cam followers....
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Hi Mick,
Like I said at the time the best place to find out about the vehicle would be the Series 1 club's website.
You will find that things may not look up to scratch or inadequate but I will say that the brakes on my Series 1 are better than any other series i've driven - simply because they are as intended and put together right.
I would suggest you should try and be as faithful as possible - as from my past experience, modifying it will make it worse.
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I am not using the Fidle as it goes, currently I've only wired the system for the sparks side. Good to know - thanks for the help
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Excellent! Nice one Fridge
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I've read it's possible to control an electric fan with megasquirt and the relay board. I am looking for an idiots guide or some pointers on this. Cheers
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Is it possible to wire in a lambda to see carb tune?
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110 back box - been there done it
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I guess I should update - initially I have gone for sparks only. EDIS 4 is wired in with a really simple loom for a single coil. The trigger wheel went on a diet as did the front pulley and with cyl1 at TDC the missing tooth is 9 ahead of the sensor. I've found a suitable spark map and uploaded that.
Yet to try it yet as the engine is out of the shell
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Seems like a single throttle body is the way to go for this - for ease of install, and let's face it - a single throttle body and controlled sparks will be a big improvement over two out of balance SUs and a 40yr old distributor!
(I have fitted a hairy cam, better exhaust and a big valve head for reference)
Has anybody experience of mounting throttle bodies? Should I pick one from a similar size engine and BHP then work it onto a manifold, and then how does one go about getting a single injector to work?
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The fella I know of has an 88, with a tuned 2.25 and it is lovely. It places well because it is reliable. It's bog standard bar having better shocks.
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^Not at all there is a guy competing with a 2.25p swb series and it does place well.
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Might also be worth speaking to Rusty_Wingnut about the one he has for sale http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=75828
Indeed it would - sounds like it suits what you are after Alan.....
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Lent my trailer out - it came back with scrubbed tyres from reversing with the lock on
Lent my welder out and it came back with FA gas and all the tips and nozzles gone.
Was asked to lend my Series 1 - and luckily didn't lend it - knowing who it was the thing would of been on the red line a fair bit, though the engine is barely run in.
So my advice is don't bother because you will end up disappointed!!!
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I must admit I am running 235 85s @ 35psi and have the blue speedo drive gear in the transfer box.
To answer Daan, when you trace a 300tdi's intake pipework, the route goes down to a drain point (?) bolted near the brake bias valve on the driver's footwell in the engine bay. When you unbolt this plastic gizmo it has a very small bore size, so I replaced the entire pipe run with 3" bore flexi directly from the airbox out to the wing - my reason being she can breathe a bit free-er.
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Having just completed a jaunt to Liege and back this weekend with my free-er intake and a 1.2 transfer, I dare say the cruising speeds aren't much different to a 1.4. I find I can reach 72mph at what feels like a decent throttle margain but give me an incline and it's down to 65mph. Around town 1st was a little tough when loaded on some of the hillier starts.
I got 280miles from a full tank in the 90.
I can only summise that trying to push the brick shape of a Defender through wind at anything over 65mph is going to hurt the economy. I wonder if the Ibex has less frontal area and a better windscreen rake angle?
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Are there different types? I have got a funny reading temp gauge!
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I find to make a 1.2 work in a standard 300tdi you need to rework the intake pipework, removing that poxy plastic restrictor!
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buy my V8?!
*coat, door etc
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I think I also need to tell Megatune that the car has 4 cylinders now rather than 8.
Reading around it seems vehicles with Siamese ports are more tricky to 'squirt, so I may run the sparks side first and move on to the fuel side later.
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I spoke to him Friday last week and he was busy DIYing it up, was meant to ge tover at the weekend but I got busy and never made it.
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Spanner size ain't the problem - I was talking about thread size as I had lost the nut. An ordinary M14 nut doesn't fit and neither does a typical 5/8UNF. For some reason they've used Metroc fine threads on shock absorbers!!!!
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They are thread size m14 x 1.5 - same as a spark plug!!!
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What the bloody hell is it?! Usual 5/8 UNF doesn't fit
Yours - well Mildly miffed off
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Chaps bit of advice required - I have got one of Nigels V8 megasquirt kits that was installed and ran a RV8. I wish to now use this system for an MGB engine, the 4cyl B series. (I don't want another V8 - don't go there!)
My question is what do I need to change to make this work? I know I need an EDIS 4 and to rework the injector loom to a new setup. Obviously it will need a specific MG map on the ECU. But is there anything I've missed?
Rebuilding 2.5TD
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I modified my TD with this sort of arrangement. I had to weld a tube into the sump but it's not hard.