rusty_wingnut
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Posts posted by rusty_wingnut
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There are a lot of folk South of London, myself included. I can highly recommend a garage on the South coast if you fancy a trip to the seaside?
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20 hours ago, dantastic said:
That's a very good idea! I can screw the template to the panel as I'm getting rid of it anyway. I have a router so this might be the best option!
Of course it is, it's one of my own 😏
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Make a wooden jig of the window, clamp on to the side of 90, use a plunge router to cut the aluminium, with a guide bush against the jig. Perfect windows everytime and nice neat cut.
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it's a weekend job on a 90, should be even quicker with a hi cap
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I ran 700 but with a low boost and it highlighted cooling issues
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I am about to throw all my Britpart filters in the scrap! Thanks for the post
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air leak on the manifolds?
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I might bring the Series 1 down to spectate
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awesome work - well done
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I helped a chap put a 200tdi in a Rover P4. It was originally a 2.25 petrol, so we pulled the lump put the 200 in, and made up the exhaust. It was getting ridiculous MPG - 45mpg sounds about right. It went to Italy and back. He then sold it to a bloke who started welding it up, and I think he's sold it now as well.
It was quick, it had a RRC diff in it IIRC, but it handled like an absolute pig.
I would suggest the SD1 idea is a good one - they're bloody awful cars to look at though!
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indeed, with a free disc and bracket, and an easy source for a caliper you think someone would jump at the chance....
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Take a look at this site, I think you will find the m90 is a possible unit and fitted to some well know digger transmission brakes!
http://www.hayesbrake.com/markets/agconstruction/products/?tab=2
the 310M looks remarkably like the series caliper, that X-Eng use........
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I believe the Series disc has a larger inner OD and different bolt pattern. I had planned to bore the centre out and redrill it.
You may well be able to use a different type of caliper from something cheap, the Series caliper is not the JCB item I think?
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In my vast array of left over Land Rover rubbish, I happen to have a Defender X disc and the X-Eng bracket you bolt to the back of a Series transfer case to mount the caliper.... Might you be able to knock something up?
As it's the time of year for generosity etc, (and knowing what it is like to be a student) you can have these pieces if you can arrange a relay?
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If you use a proper marine epoxy powder coat it will be fine.
my chassis was galv'd, then had a light coat of cold zinc and then had an epoxy powder coat. It got scratched around the radius arms but never chipped off in big chunks.
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It wasn't exactly responsive, but a friend's FL2 coped with my 110 on a car trailer driving Southampton to Micheldever.
that sounds interesting! I thought they could only tow 2ton, I'd imagine you were over that!
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I've towed my loaded sankey, it's a bit of an odd sight, but the FL2 seems to cope well under acceleration, the power is not a problem. Weight wise it all seems fairly stable.
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The MG manifolds are designed to hug the block as tight as possible, this stops the need for chopping lumps of the chassis rail out when you undertake a V8 conversion.
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I guess without reading the whole lot the audience must decide themselves but the Freel2 forume as lead to believe the camshaft failures were due to water in fuel.
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P38 headers work with a minor adjustment I believe?
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the camshaft problem is only in areas where a large amount of water can be present in fuel - not a problem in the majority of western Europe.
The oil change is tricky, the filter is a nightmare to get to, on the Transit you can easily get a wrench on from below and remove the filter from below. but on the FL2 you are advised to use a 27mm gear wrench, however I managed with a traditional 1/2" wrench and 27mm socket, then I had to remove the filter from above, and unplug the fans and loosena jubilee clip on the intercooler pipe.
Knowing what I know now it is easy and I wouldn't hesitate to do another, I think people make a big deal out of it first time round. They're a good motor and seem tough, mine is OK off road and has managed a few green lanes. space wise there is loads and we've coped with 5 people and luggage. It's a far cry from my old 90, and altohugh it won't tough the 90 off road it outperforms it every where else.
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I've a late 07 auto, and it's bloody marvellous. around 40mpg on a run and very refined. Just don't try and do an oil change on it!!
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Whilst a good series one engine may perform well enough. Finding or building a good one these days is not that easy or cheap. And just like the later 6 cylinder F head engines, a good one doesn't stay good for very long compared to a 2.25 petrol engine, camshafts/followers and exhaust valves being the main culprits on the 2 litre lumps
I've not heard of exhaust valves failing. The valve gear can be a weak point, but the rockers are available and so are camshafts. None of which is expensive or difficult to replace. I've not had problems with things wearing out despite a lot of high rpm work. I think a lot of folk fall down because they don't check oil ways and assume the engine will be fine. oiling is critical on any engine but the oil ways on a 2ltr can gum up and it worth checking it is all clear - especially on an engine you've not run for a while.
I stick by my engine build, I've had not a single problem and I am happy with how it pulls. It will pull my old 109 from a standstill in 3rd gear on 7.50 tyres. the 200 was incredible but shook the car to death and I already had a tdi defender which is a far better application for a tdi motor. the 2.25 was rubbish and would never run well and was awfully heavy. For me I didn't want to drive around in a parts bin special, I wanted the motor as it was intended, albeit with a little more performance in line with period techniques.
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I would suggest the original equipment is by far the best suited to the vehicle, I've been full circle with mine and now would not swap away from my 2ltr. I've had; 2.5TD, 200tdi and the 2.25 petrol. the 2ltr is the best motor in a series 1, and a good one will perform well enough.
If you want a 2a/3 then buy one but if you want a Series 1 then keep it as original as possible and you won't be dissapointed - not least if you come to sell it! It is wise to join the Series 1 club and forum where you will get a lot of real world experience in restoring Series 1s and you may well be surprised to find the parts are not as expensive as you think.
Track/Plunge/Circular saw buying woes.
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Parkside saw, Festool rail.