rusty_wingnut
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Posts posted by rusty_wingnut
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BMX pii**pot helmets are light and comfy, cheap too at £15 a pop. as for legality.....
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Ouch, i just corrected mine last night. mine had 1/2" of toe in
it now has 3mm of toe out. One track rod end is stuck fast, I heated it and applied diesel oil and tried turning the TRE with a pair of stilsons but had no luck. Any tips other than keep heating it and see what happens?Judging by the amount of toe you get per turn of a TRE I reckon a quarter turn on the track rod would get me within the range LR reccomend.
it explains why my left hand tyre has worn down to the second wear mark and the right is still on the third
steering wheel needs re-aligning too -
i have a duceller on my shelf pulled off a working engine - no use to me, my land rovers are diesels!
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MDF don't splinter!
Handy Andy's Landy?
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having restored a 67 roadster, i think your comments on the handling are unfounded. my experience is with the earlier cars which are renowned for being better than the later, more power & better handling. With a good set of modern tyres they are good cars. You run out of grunt before grip. my car has been fitted with orig and spax shocks at the rear and both perform very well.
One problem i can see with the hybrid, is rot. not the best at corrosion prevention, so why go fitting it to an off road chassis?
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i wrote my objection a few weeks back. never driven it despite it being local. it's on the list TRO pending
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I have a 90/110 TD rad to go in the truck with the rebuild. There's a small problem, as I have moved the rad tight against the steering box it wont fit. The bottom hose wants to be where the steering box is!!
Its a reasonably simple job to alter it to have both hoses on the L/H side with a division in the end tank between the hoses (as a 300 tdi rad its running now) Would it reduce cooling efficiency at all? I cant see it would but im known to be wrong far too often so I thought id ask the opinions of others.
cheers.
Steve.
good with a soldering iron?
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thats the best place to meet. I gotta check with the dreaded missus, i'll get back to you.
dreaded missus said yes but then i remembered i have football training (ducks and hides
) Saturday is better for me... 
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There's a national park, with car park just past the bowl.
Good place to meet up. What time you looking at?
thats the best place to meet. I gotta check with the dreaded missus, i'll get back to you.
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i'm near Banstead old chap
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i know a few but wouldn't mind coming along....
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mine does it, i presume its due to the lack of a flexi joint in the exhaust....
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i've had an absolute ngihtmare bleeding my genuine part
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i guess they just got the last service bulletin
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i'll be there!
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core plugs
oil seals (crank and camshaft)
valve stem seals
p gasket
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theres a chap near me who may be able to help you. Pm me
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an obvious mistake i have noticed that is made often, is that between the cam pulley and the crank puller there can be some slack due to incorrectly positioning the belt.
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what do you meen by dragging? failing to disengage or slipping??
did you replace the two little () < that shape things on the end of the clutch fork
pressure plate was at fault on mine an slipped when i put me foot down also
how did your flywheel look glazed high spots??
dave
by dragging i mean its failing to disengage. two little clips went back on but weren't replaced with new. flywheel was glazed and had high spots so was swapped for one without (off original 300tdi)
as a bit of an update i've done about 20 or so miles since fitment, and apart from a loose heater hose the engine has been spectacular. performance isn't quite on par in the bottom end with my old 300 but the top end is vastly improved and it has a nice even pull with the turbo going. its lovely and smooth and is quiet at idle (by comparison).
most importantly the clutch is settling down and now all gears are selectable. the pedal feels like it has a little free play which i will take a look at. but is lighter than before. i think its a case of if its working then leave it.
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i hope so Les, I can't see a problem with the hydraulics and the clutch is fitted correctly, the pedal is right too
i'll keep you posted
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i've set the pedal height correctly as per this thread:
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...clutch+dragging
only thing i can think of is the spigot bearing is tight and thats turning the input shaft
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help folks
Over the last 2 days i've fitted a fresh 300tdi into my defender 90. i have fitted a 130 friction plate and used the same flywheel and pressure unit as before. only thing is now the clutch drags which means its crunchy going into 1st and 2nd and reverse is engine off
I have no clue, the plate was fitted the correct way round, i've dismantled and checked all hydraulics and bled. release bearing is sitting on the forks.
i've welded the arm as per Mr. Henson and it has the correct adjoining bar fitted to meet with the slave.
the biting point seems fairly normal about 1/3rd pedal travel. but it drags and i guess doesn't fully release.
the clutch maust had always been dragging as the truck would never go into reverse cleanly and only go into first cleanly if pushed slowly. i always thought the box was knackered.
i've only got tomorrow before it is needed for work.
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what does the rest of the engine number on a 300tdi mean?
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I am rebuilding a 300tdi to fit into my defender in the next month or so, whilst the engine is out i will be re-using the clutch from my old engine as this is nearly new and has been in for just a thousand miles.
I was to avoid a problem with the clutch release arm, so what are my options?
Britpart uprated?
Range Rover cast item?
Weld bits to it myself?
ideas chaps please....
it now has 3mm of toe out. One track rod end is stuck fast, I heated it and applied diesel oil and tried turning the TRE with a pair of stilsons but had no luck. Any tips other than keep heating it and see what happens?
) Saturday is better for me... 
Malthouse Lane, Pirbright Common - Write now or LOSE IT
in Getting out and about
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