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rusty_wingnut

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Posts posted by rusty_wingnut

  1. Gents, I'm about to undertake a chassis swap and have bagged a whole 4 days to do it :lol::rolleyes:

    I've got access to a JCB digger or gantry crane for lifting the body off, so no real problems there, but where's best to lift the body from without damaging it?

    I'll be replacing the clutch, possibly my crunchy R380 and the A frame ball joint. The defender recently had new trailing arm to chassis bushes and radius arm to chassis bushes so no sweat there. What about wiring? I will most probably disconnect it (assuming there are connectors) between chassis and body? Brake hoses etc again easy enough.

    Anything I have missed? is it worthy fitting the chassis wiring loom on the outside of the new chassis in some armouring?

    Does anyone know how much the body weighs?

  2. Snap!

    I did these earlier in the week. Also thought the small bush (rear trailing arm type) was probably too stiff. Wasn't really worried about it feeling harsh but more the fact that things that vibrate a lot tend to have lots of stuff that comes loose and brackets that crack. So I went for two, slightly modified, A frame bush's either side.

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    Hope to get the rear chassis "ears" for either mount tacked on tomorrow after work then pull the motor back out and weld it up, along with some load spreading on the chassis. Then a pressure wash (as long as the washer has thawed out :angry: ) and a splash of paint.

    BTW, Also for a 4.2!

    Excellent Steve! please let me know how they fair, as my mate is unconvinced!

  3. cheers lads I didn't expect the kind comments. The tube was turned from solid billet to match each bush with a press fit. Took around 2hrs to make each tube. Then I strategically cut the mounts for a standard V8 and made the 6mm thick U pieces. I hope it works, the chap hasn't installed them yet :roll:

  4. followin on froma previous discussion Re, QTs mounts, I made some mounts for a V8 usin a larger dia radius arm bush in the hope these would still have the same strength as QTs but allowing for more deflection and hence less vibrations.

    Please excuse the fab, you guys are pro's :lol:

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    They are to restrain a friends 4.2, he's yet to try them.

  5. not quite the same calibre but i rescued a flatbed tranny with car ontop from Reigate hill yesterday, minor flooding and some of the land had made its way onto the road. Poor bugger's clutch had gone halfway up. Plod were their usual useless unhelping selves.

  6. age old answer: I rebuilt the engine.

    But it's not the rear crank, it had new breather pipes and its made no difference, rocker gasket has been done best part of 4 times.

    The three bolts along the rear edge of the sump, next to the bell housing are those causing issues. particular the one nearest to the passenger side. Said bolt seems to have it's apperture in the block fill with oil and then the hot oil runs down the thread and out? I have thought about making a bolt with a tapered thread :ph34r:

  7. they've only got to watch you to see which part of the workshop you use most to see where your tools are.

    I have heard of people trying to misguide thieves and most little pikeys are fooled but the pro's watch your place for days before the robbery, they check when you come and go, what your habits are etc.

    I used to work in a shop that sold tools so i spoke to lads with vans, some who had workshops etc. If you leave your tools in a van it's a nightmare, I heard of one van left on a site while the owner went for a drink, when he got back thieves had cut the side door out

    Units, normally thieves use bog windows, and I have heard of some coming through roofs. Gates no matter how beefy, can often be broken at where lock plates meet.

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