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rusty_wingnut

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Posts posted by rusty_wingnut

  1. i have some rear bench seats for a 90, that i'd like to fit to mine. I have nothing but both frames and the padding. My question is what do i need to fit this kit?

    I was just thinking drill the tub and bolt them in, but I have no seatbelts for them, should there be a spreader plate maybe? :unsure:

    help!

  2. I got my hi lift around 6months ago and as far as i can tell two things are important.

    1 - make sure the jack is as vertical as possible on flat ground else the vehicle will fall off the jack.

    2-don't wrap hands around the black drilled boom.

    forgive me if i've missed something obvious but it is quite a safe item IMO. I've used it to jack up porta-cabins :D

  3. I've got Saharas on my 90, wearing ok but quicker than i'd like. (i do 2road miles a day, weekly, and anything upto 200 and more at weekends)

    I also greenlane them at least once a month. They are a very good off road tyre with excellent road handling. it's the sort of tyre, where you point and squirt with no need to think. Out performed some poorly driven special tracks last weekend on a steep descent.

  4. Cheap option it is - cost us the equivalent of £100 for the engineers to remove the valve seat (no 1 of course), send it away to be welded and put the seat back in afterwards. A new head seems to be in the region of R32k here, which is about £2000, it seems only the stealers™ stock them and their prices are silly. So our only alternative was a second hand head which could be cracked anyway, or about to.

    Oh and the owner has done almost 10k kms in a few weeks since the job and is happy.

    If you are worried about -20°, that is what antifreeze is for. We suffer more in the other direction in the summer, most Tdi and TD5 heads are cracked by overheating after hoses blow or the head gasket goes.

    I must say I was a bit sceptical about the welding, but we offered the choice to the owner (with no warranty on the head) and he took it. At that price, so would I :)

    The engineers told us they regularly weld BMW heads especially, plus all sort of other cars and motorbikes.

    Sensible option, majority of weld repairs I've seen last well.

  5. Cheers for the info chaps. guess I need a tin of black paint and some wet and dry :D

    I have already done the welding required for an MOT this time round but i can forsee in a couple of years it will need a new rear cross. (which I can do, but am becoming lazy these days)

    I will probably stick with mine - afterall a 300tdi has to be more valuable than a converted g plate? And it didn't seem capable of pulling away from my 300 on the road :rolleyes:

  6. my 135k 300tdi 90 for a 1989 3.5 V8 90.

    My 90 has and will require chassis welding, but does have a fresh cambelt, new CVs, new rad, new head lamps, slightly crunchy r380, insa saharas on black mods, and a mud dash.

    the V8 90 is an ex 2.5 petrol, fitted with a 80k 3.5 V8, lpg equip on board but setup is not connected to engine yet, it has a solid chassis with no obvious holes, slightly knackered lt230, lt85/95 box, needs a new rad, is resprayed black with alloys and insa turbos (as new as my saharas, roughly 1000miles on them), it has rock sliders and some spot lamps.

    it looks nice and certainly is more presentable than my 90. both cabs are as naff as each other really.

    i don't do many road miles during the week, roughly 2 a day. My 300 does have issues that may prove costly in the long run, so would I be a wise chappy to swap for something with more go thats a bit better looking but slightly older, and risk the V8 issues? I don't go wading but do green lane a bit.

    any advice appreciated. :lol:

  7. So i'm looking to fit some before they go bang. I've never done this job on a coiler, so i 'll have a hunt in the archive and find a guide. My question is, can anyone reccomend a particular brand of CV, or somewhere to buy from? My truck has 235 tyres so i guess a standard duty will suffice.

    1996 defender 90.

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