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zim

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Posts posted by zim

    multi battery set up

    in International Forum

    Posted

    its my own personal preference on how many batterys i run really

    and at the minute i have one optima for each winch and one for starting

    i currently use the x charge which is very good i must say

    but at the mo it only isolates the starter battery from the winch batterys which are connected

    ideally i would like eacch battery to be seperate so can i use mutiple splt chargers

    fair enough. i was assuming you were trying to use lots of cheapo batteries instead of a couple good ones.

    now to through a spanner in the works, why do you want a split charge system ? if all your batteries are of the same age, type and condition they can be left connected together.

    i've run many multiple battery setups like this (20+ batteries), and see many many more - but always one type of battery is used per install whether they be optima, nsb, hawker etc.

    if you still wish to isolate them, just get another x charge system.

    G

    Noisy rear end (the disco)

    in Discovery Forum

    Posted

    I would replace the bump stops mate,they put them on there for a reason,the reason being the axel hits the chassie and it doesnt sound good.My discovery has HD +2 springs and it still touches the bump stops.

    If you're touching bumpstops whilst driving down a normal road your truck has issues :(

    G

    double winch hooks

    in International Forum

    Posted

    If I'm not mistaken, the red one posted by Zimsound is a Gunnebo hook.

    There have been instances during lifting operations that they have opened during use (possibly due to shock or impact) and the load dropped. Some companies refuse to use them in certain areas. (Okay on cranes, not on rig floors inside derrick structures)

    I was going to suggest that the consequence of a release during winching may be less than lifting but I guess that depends on the position of the vehicle (steep hill?). The potential for an impact or shock load is probably higher too...

    erm...now i'm no expert, but we've been told otherwise :huh: lol

    All of our crane pennants have this style hook on.... The headerball / main block are conventional, with these hanging below.

    G

    double winch hooks

    in International Forum

    Posted

    I may have to raid stores at work for some more hooks, i like the idea of double hooks :)

    Just out of interest, do any of you use the hook like the picture below, where you have to press the little tab on the back so you can open the hook :

    We use this style of hook from 1/2 t up to 15t.

    Clevis-Self-Locking-Hook.jpg

    Disco 2 box on a defender

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    OK, so you've said the purpose of this is to reduce steering input effort. Sounds like an excellent idea.

    Does the D2 have speed sensitive steering assistance? If so how do you plan to get around this on a Defender?

    I'm curious because I was discussing the use electric PAS pumps (small French car origin) the other day, and a problem that cropped up was how to control the degree of assist when you have no inputs from a speed sensor. For challenge use I can see this is not an issue, but for road use...

    I have no idea about the sensitive steering assistance that you mention, but you're only using the mechanial steering box from the D2 nothing else.

    The use of 106 / saxo power steering pumps have been discussed before, do a search. I'll stick to my belt driven pump ;)

    Thanks for the pics G , Is there any reason why the box is mounted above its original position , I was thinking of using the top original holes as they marry up to the box and chassis ,and welding a bracket below the chassis to marry up with the offset lower mountings of the steering box .

    How have you supported the panhard rod mount , as it was originaly supported from the box .

    Jase

    the box was too low if we used the top 2 bolts as this was our initial idea. before i forget, my chassis isn't a defender, i think it's 1" "shorter" than what you would have. i found this out when fitting my gigglepin rear arm brackets :blink:

    i haven't supported the panhard rod mount :( i've not yet worked this part out....might weld some sort of reinforcement bracket onto the chassis.

    Hope this helps

    Gord

    Zimbabwe is booked :)

    in Getting out and about

    Posted

    Just booked our flights to go out to zimbabwe for a week :) I was brought up there, but been over here for the last 6 / 7 years.

    We will be spending most of our time up near victoria falls :

    victoria6.jpg

    Should do some good travelling around the bush :)

    It'll be my girlfriends first time in Africa :lol:

    Gord

    Damm got a flat

    in International Forum

    Posted

    If you run with a different size tyre (regardless of whether the prop is in or not) the axle diff will take care of the difference, BUT! depending on the type of diff the wear on the cross pin for the gears (planets?) will be the main issue. They are not especially well lubricated from the diffs I have looked at (and the one that broke on the cross pin).

    How much it will affect anything I don't know, but if it is a substantial run then it will weaken the cross pin to some degree.

    If you do the run check the diff oil level, and if possible try to top it up or overfill to reduce or stop the extra wear.

    I don't know how much effect this will have on the centre diff, I would think that it would be less or none, but I have a mental failure on gears....

    if's a rear flat, just remove the shafts and prop then ;)

    Edit : but then you'll have 2 holes either side of the axel........ so would need some blank flanges as such.

    G

    Where to get steel hydraulic pipe from

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    Sorry - it's very off topic, but this was the only place that I could think of that people would be able to give me a decent answer. It's to make a cannon from. I will plug the end, weld trunions onto the side and then cast aluminium over the top in the correct shape (I've already made the pattern, and the foundry is waiting for me). Drill a touch hole, put it onto a shotgun certificate (hence over 24" long, less than 2" diameter) and then I can go and have some fun. Ever seen clay pigeons done with a cannon? No, me neither.

    woah ! that's probably the last thing i would have guessed :) :)

    back home we did a fair bit of black powder shooting which is along the same lines, but we bought the weapons :lol:

    G

    Disco 2 box on a defender

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    I went to a scrappy and found a set of D2 piping, cut them shorter then had hydraulic hose fittings put on the end.... I've then had more hydraulic hosing made to go to my zf74.

    I got the lower section of a D2 steering column, and split it in the crumple zone plates (not sure on their proper name - basically 2 3" x 2" plates which clamp together). I then did the same to a 90 column.... I then reassembled using the D2 bottom part.

    n667984881_1457691_3845.jpg

    n667984881_1457691_3845.jpg

    With location, i'll have to find a picture for you. But i added about 1 1/2" on top of my chassis leg so the top bolts would have somewhere to mount.

    n667984881_1464743_280.jpg

    Drag link.... this is the part i'm not soo sure on yet, but am not worried, as i'll be fitting hydro assist so making my own balljoint. I've currently just got a normal balljoint through it, so i can move it round the yard, but my drag link is fractionally too long.

    The banana shaped drop arm is a pain in the butt !!!!

    Oh... with the D2 box and the zf74, it is amazing light :D :D I know i've only got 33" tyres, but it is dead easy to turn them from side to side whilst stationary.

    G

    V8 remote oil filters and oil coolers?

    in International Forum

    Posted

    Steve,

    I used to run a normal mocal sandwich plate, but managed to smash this up with my diff.

    I then got a plate which goes where the old filter take off point is - bottom item on this page if i remember correctly - http://www.thinkauto.com/cgi-bin/sh000001....tml%23aPC1#aPC1

    You fit your pressure relief valve into this as well, making sure the bore is nice n smooth....

    Then as per a normal take off you have an input and a return, which you take to your filter somewhere in your engine bay.

    This takes up the least amount of space out of all the systems.

    I'll be going to the workshop in a bit, so will see if i can get a picture of it...

    Gord

    Edit, i've just reread your post...and it's actually about coolers....doh.... i don't run one on mine, but i'd find a way of a thermo switch...i'd put money on the guys from thinkauto having something to sort you out, very helpful, and as far as i know they manufacture the mocal stuff.

    Defender 90 R380 box

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    hello there.

    got prob with my 90, 300 tdi with 380 box fitted.

    transfer box failed, whinning due to lack of oil and have removed to reveal very little splines on output shaft. is a disco 300 gearbox the same and are there any mods needed if i fit one, complete with transfer box? (only cause they're cheaper)

    i know this will gear it up, which i am not fussed about as i use it mainly on roads without towing etc.

    thanks for help.

    sorry, it won't fit. the box is longer in the disco.

    Gordon

    work gloves

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    at work we have 3 options :

    1 - cotton gloves with millions of rubber dots on them, these are my favourite gloves as you can actually feel what you're doing with your fingers. the downside being the minute you touch mud / water / oil, your hands are soaked. still, i wear them, just use a good dose of swarfega at the end of each shift. i'm tempted to try latex gloves under them.....

    2 - plastic gloves, a bit clumersome, but great for working when you don't need to be accurate... i.e. big spanners, chain tongs, stilsons and they're spot on :)

    3 - leather gloves, these are pretty good, but the ones we get have a tight cuff, which annoys me when trying to put them on / take them off quickly...

    we've had some trial runs of thing rubbery / plasticcy gloves but most of them can't take too long when dealing with greasy jobs.

    if you want warm gloves, i use impact gloves or scaffolders leather gloves :)

    G

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