zim
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Posts posted by zim
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i had a problem when i fitted servo brakes onto a series the one time. from what i recall i had to use the bigger fittings, with a small pipe ( 3/8 not 1/4).
however i can't remember the size of fittings / pipework on a series clutch, i'm sure they normaly use 1/4" tubing though.
here is an attachment of the parts page if it helps you.
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thats a nice looking truck
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i'll measure one at the workshop for you later
Gord
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Evening,
I was wondering, i've got a pair of rear hubs from a 10 splined axel. Is it possible to put these onto a 24 spline'd axel stub axel ? The difference i've found is that the 10spline stub axel is a bit longer, and uses a lock ring which takes up this space.
Are there stub axels which will take 24spline shafts, but take my 10 spline'd hubs ?
Will FTC1740, which is from a later defender LA930456 onwards, which has 24 splines......Will these stub axels fit my hubs ?
Cheers
Gord
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I met them at a show recently and queried how long they would last with mud and grit - the answer was not long, followed by a full warranty.....which i was then told didn't cover the joints because they'd never make money if they replaced every one that broke due to mud and dirt.....great for what we do then
i wondered what the warranty was like, but saying that i wonder how long they'd last if you kept them nicely greased.
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looks like a copy of the qt services one but at a much better price .
i'd also be interested to know if anyone has one and how they got on with it
a friend got one at the peterborough show, hence me asking about them. compared to the normal A frame joint the movement is A LOT more
Gord
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Evening,
Just wondering if anyone's used the A frame joint that muddy bottom are doing ?
Cost £120
http://www.muddybottom4x4.com/node/91
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Just wondering if anyone can point me in the direction of some breakers in and around manchester.
I'm after a few bits n bobs, to help me mate together different parts on my hybrid ! i.e. a set of disco 2 power steering pipes with the little clamp that goes into the PAS box !
Gord
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make sure you take the cap off the reservior.
big waterpump pliers, but use them carefully so you don't damage parts.
G
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Gents,
I know you can buy these new, but i also know that they come on some vehicles. But short of looking under every merc van i see could someone tell me which models of cars / vans actually have them ?
Do any audi's ?
I've tried searching the net, but i keep on getting vague answers.
Failing that, what is the actual number on the back of them because i'm guessing zf74 is a bit short.
Oh, and do they all run 'backwards' ?
thanks
Gordon
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Galvernised steel pipe is what you want to use if you want to go steel, does have its advantages over plastic, depending on the size of your compressor i would go for around 20mm internal diameter, dont forget to add in drain points and make sure the run has a fall, i got all my bits from fwb (google them to see if theres one near you) they cut the pipe to my specs and threaded it so all i had to do was screw it all together and fit it in place
cutting / threading isn't a problem, as we can do that
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Afternoon,
I am sick of rubber hoses being draped across the workshop for us to use airtools so fancy fitting hardlines around it.
So what type of steel pipe should i use ? And approximately what sort of price is it ?
At work here we use some pretty heavy duty stuff, and have wide choice of different rated pressure fittings....
Thanks
Gordon
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I have checked and tightened earths and I am now seeing 13.5v accross the battery is this ok? I thought it should be more like 14-14.5 thanks in advance chaps.
One other small issue(could be quite big actually) my water pump developed a leak and I overheated last month.
Water pump changed and refitted but I am concered all is not well as temp guage sits between half and three quaters and the coolant hoses feel very firm and bloody hot after a run of say 10 miles. I cant see ant water in oil or oil in water am I being paranoid.
your coolant system is not related to your charging system.
13.5 is your alternator charging, maybe a little lower than what is liked but it is working
what does your battery read with the engine off (and been off for a little while - 5 / 10mins).G
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I think it is possible to attach a P38 PAS box to the outside of the chassis rail, as the box would sit on the chassis rail.
I've not done this (yet), but I reckon it would work.
You may have to cut your battery box holder though.
If you HAD a p38 PAS box kicking about you could try it.
g.
surely your wheels will foul on it though ???
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they make an amazing difference in my opinion
sorry i don't have detailed pictures, but we've done it by moving the front x member forward and then using a disco / defender steering box and a defender steering column.
Gord
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how can you not find milner.. just google "milner" and its the top hit.
nobody took them over, they just moved to a new building for more space.
yes...but they've dropped some product lines.
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I was under the impression they were Ashcroft but I could be wrong.
well i phoned up scorpion, and i'm still none the wiser who make their shafts...... hmmmmm
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i'd put money on your tracking being slightly out
(also, check all the ball joints, but i think you said you have already)maybe you've bent your steering track bar just a little bit.
Edit : forgot to say, i'll see your 50p and raise it to £1
G
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Clicky
Is where I got mine... Not sure if Milner ever did the Isuzu one but these fellows do a range for various Jap Motors.
this is who took over the conversion part of milner.
i've called them before for little bits n bobs.
Gordon
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Hi !
I've been offered some 24 spline scorpion rear halfshafts with endcaps for not a lot of money..... But i've not heard of them before.
Are they ok or do i stay clear (which the voices in my head are telling me!)
Cheers
Gordon
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Ok gents,
I had my compressor rebuilt, but now it's pretyt much constantly running then switching off and dumping some air, then running again
the rangey picks up and down like it should pretty quickly.It's dumping out the little white exhaust (i guess that's what it's called) at the back of the eas box under the bonnet.
Below is a video i've taken where i've sprayed on washing up liquid to see bubbles. It pumps up, dumps, then pumps up again, and dumps, pumps up, dumps etc....
Is it my valve block which isn't working properly ?? If so, are they easy enough to strip down the diaghprams.
Thanks
Gordon
Edit : thinking about it, do these things have pressure relief valves ??? if so, that could be faulty possibly ?
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Morning.
Im looking for a weldable ram end for a 25mm/1" shaft with a plain bearing (rose joint) and a hole size of 3/4". Steer forth only do metric size's which is what im using now, with a sleeve I turned to take up the difference in size. I need to replace the ram end so I'd prefer to have the right size if possible.
Anybody have any idea's who else I could try?
Many thanks.
Steve.
what about a tractor hydraulic top link with swivel ends?
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it's already got the incorrect engine in according to the paperwork, so a 200tdi in it will be no worse off
they go in nicely G
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make a normal hot rod instead
then spend a little bit of money on a 3.5 v8 with conversion plate, lt77 or R380, and stick it into your series.
and this is how your gearsticks will approximately be :
3.5's can be driven on series axels, the bigger drum brakes make it a bit nicer, but still the stopping power is nothing like discs !
or if you fancy a bit more power the 4.6 v8 is the same physical size.
the rangey picks up and down like it should pretty quickly.
Cheap Rage Evolution cut off saw
in International Forum
Posted
i've got a makita chop saw, one of the best tools in the workshop
well worth the extra.
Gordon