zim
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Posts posted by zim
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P+P are the people to deal with
G
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Why have you discounted the comments / links that imply Gordon Finlay and Mark Adams have put an LS1 in a 38A?
Have you already spoken to Gordon and forgotten to tell us of the outcome?
Cheers.
not yet, but i plan on doing so. i work away so time on the net is difficult
Gordon
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my head hurts now after reading all the above links / posts...!
the verdict seems to be that you can't get an american engine to speak to a british brain lol !
is it possible to bolt a normal P38 transfer box onto the back of a 4l80e ?
hmmmmmm
G
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You will need to run MS with it, your P38 ECU wont work properly. different voltages on injectors and other such things is the reason.
Engine mounts will need to be changed but thats fairly simple to do.
depending on where the engine will fit, will determine where you CAN fit your gearbox and transfer, so prop shaft lengths may have to be altered.
whats drive train you will need i am not sure on.
cheers
from reading, the standard gearbox won't be good enough for the LS1 so it's advised to upgrade. The 'problem' with the p38 is the diff is on the other side compared to a normal defender etc. Meaning i can't use a 4L80E with LT230.
G
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Evening,
i think my 4.6 is a bit buggered, due to the fact it's been using water for a little while.
So, me listening to the little voices in my head have been thinking about an ls1.
I've spent a while on google, and can't find all that much information.
So what's involved ???
Buy an LS1 from the states (where the $ is now stronger
!!!)then ?
- 4L80E ?
- What transfer box ? and how do i fit it to the gearbox ?
- ECU ? Can i get it to work with my current P38 ecu ? or will i need a MS ???
I'm assuming that they phyically aren't too difficult to fit in, it's just a matter of cutting off old mounts and installing new ones.
I know people have them in 90's, but i've not seen too much about them in p38's.
Cheers
Gord
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The extra pin is so that you can choose to wire it up as normally closed or normally open.
here is a picture for you :
G
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cheers.
i have an 80(ish) litre tank so will pop in next time i need.
G
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Nige
what sort of price am i looking to pay?
Jay
can't remember exactly, but i think the last time i bought 48mm blue band it was about £5 / metre.
G
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Extra Gas in Eccles is where I get mine...........
is that just past the trafford centre ?? that's a good price, cheaper than what i pay round here (alty)
G
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Not sure what you do for employment, but have you discussed it with your employers? every workplace needs a first aider and it may be something they are willing to send you on and pay for?
ditto this, in my previous position i got the basic training for fire fighting etc, i'm now currently on the first aid / stretcher team.
G
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without spending a lot of money on a decent bender you'll find it difficult.
the normal clarke jobbies aren't up to scratch.
i've got a full cage & tray made out of cds and it's the best money i've spent
i got some 1 1/4" blue band for other jobs which i bent fine, but the 2" (well 48mm) stuff i battled with.G
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steve, does it work faster one way than the other ?
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Definatley 1/8 BSP as per installation instructions for an RD56
i thought it was an npt thread and not bsp ?
edit : sorry, i was on about the thread that's tapped into the diff.
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If you're talking 1/2" thick it'll be fairly flat of its own accord, why not just drill a series of holes in a bit of plate and stand it on some legs? If it's too weak for what you're doing (building a supertanker perhaps) you could always put some strengthening ribs or beams underneath.
Most I-beams I've seen are not "square" I shaped, rather the edges taper out slightly so that could cause problems
our welder has a 3m x 3m bench, made from 1 1/2" steel plate
it's a dream to work on, because nothing moves and you can weld big stuff to it, to keep it flat whilst welding sadly i cannot afford to do the same in my workshop G
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Hydraulic Equipment superstore is in Gloucester (01452 730774), the part No of the dog clutch depends on the pump size and drive type so you willl have to ring with your pump spec.
just out of interest, how long is that setup from the front of your crank ?
G
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Disco 2 although that's not a bolt-on, strongest sector shaft.
Definately agree with the disco 2, but as said above you need to make a few 'adjustments'.
I used the lower part from a disco 2 steering column, split it at the crumple zone area, and mated it up to a defender column. Sorry, i'm away at work at the moment have slower than 56k internet so can't show pics.
If you look through my recent posts, you will find some pictures.
I then found some scrap disco 2 hoses, and had ends put on which now connect to my pas pump.
HTH
Gord
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thanks for the reply
G
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Gents,
I'm toying with the idea of going for hydraulic winches front and back, with an electrical winch in the middle... but rather than run off the PTO, i like the idea of a dog clutch off the crank.
Does anyone have any links to setups they've got / seen / built ? Where've you got your pump / pto / clutch from ?
I know about the complete type R setup which you can buy, but i'm just wanting to have a scout about to see what else is on offer, or where else i could source parts.
Thanks
Gordon
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Don't want to steal the thread but am confused.
If during split charge the two batteries are connected together then why can I not dispense with a split charge and leave both batteries connected.
I always thought you needed a split charge for a caravan because the second battery was going to be a leisure type and must be isolated from starter type currents. The application most of us are talking about here is two batteries of the same type and coping with similar currents i.e. starting or winching.
As an aside I have also been told (by someone I would rate as an expert in this field) that strapping the two together is the way to go.
Steve
if you batteries are of the same model, age and condition then it is perfectly fine to leave them connected together all the time (well, apart from the reason described above if you want to isolate one whilst using the other which is perfectly logical).
if your batteries are different and are connected together, whilst the alternator isn't chargin (i.e. the car is just parked up), then you will be damaging them. i've personally done this, and seen others. but when i've run the same type of battery in various quantities they've been fine
i've run 2's, 4's, 6's, 18's and at one stage 24 connected together...but seen over 50 all joined together....and yes, i do realise the current draw of a starter motor when turning over.
G
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I always though the v8 pump wasnt very good at self primming hence the need to pack it with vaseline after a rebuild or very long standing, if that is right I'm surprised you managed to prime it by just turning the drive which makes me think, bad conection or faulty sender, what age is the R/R if it's older with a pressure gauge it should have 2 wires and 2 senders on the pump one for the light and one for the guage, not so sure about later ones.
As said it should have been clattering after a few seconds of running with no oil pressure.
they prime just fine for me
you can use vasaline if you want, but i just turn them with a drill or just turn it over with no spark if i'm being lazy !G
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I'd seriously avoid doing it this way unless you have a suitably rated relay as you could potentially pull the full starting current for the vehicle through the relay, which would then overheat, or even weld contacts. You would need a relay capable of handling several hundred amps which is going to be pricey and large. The isolator switch will be rated appropriately and is likely to be a cheaper option.
fair enough, if your relays are 'small' then just use 2. to be honest i'm willing to bet my lunch money, that a starter will be able to turn over on a normal 100A relay.
if you're going to be heating it by just turning your starter over (which is what - 3, 4, 5, 6 seconds ?), then what happens when the 2nd battery is totally flat, and it's got 60 - 100A going through it for a period of time.
just my 2p
Gordon
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rather than have extra cables with cut out switches, connect up another little switch to flick your split charge relay, that'll join both batteries
Gordon
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Sounds like the oil pressure relief valve was not seated properly…………..may have been a bit of sh!t in there, but it is also a known problem area due to any scoring on the ali bore causing the valve bullet to stick. When this happens and the valve remains slightly open with the engine off, then oil will slowly drain from the pump housing to the sump.
i've had this before, the prv sticking and thus no oil going round.
G
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i found the fault today.
dropped the gearbox out, and found that the LT77 has a bit of an edge that sits inside the conversion plate.
my fly wheel which has been modified for a smaller clutch still had the 3 original V8 clutch locator pins, these were fouling on the lip of the lt 77.
so got rid of the 3 pins, and it's all ok now
G
Axles
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
For peace of mind i did this
New stub axels, bearings and all the seals... Now i know everything is good.
Costs a bit of money, but i'd do it.
To be honest, if it's a decent td5 axel you'll probably be fine but i prefer knowing what's inside.
My 2p
G