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Posts posted by zim
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Cheers for the replies
I think the benefit of the one I have is that its me thats covered not the car/bike i'm using, I checked and its solution 1, it doesn't cover home start though, you have to be at least 1/4 mile from home! I think its the best option if you do your own repairs as you can always get recovery home, as opposed to the nearest garage within 12 miles...Mike
Mike - did you have to pay extra to have bikes covered ? Because i do a fair bit of travelling on mine (when it's not raining like it is today )
G
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Evening,
I currently get RAC with my bank account from the Halifax, but i want to change accounts so will have to sort my own breakdown company.
I've just loaded up the RAC website, and there are 5 different options, and my brain hurts knowing which one to choose !
Who do you use, and which option ?? AA, RAC, greenflag / anyone ?
thanks
Gordon
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warthog - nice work there one thing i do when installing winches, is use stronger bolts - 12.9 capheads. maybe it's not required, and just an overkill but i don't think there's any harm in having strong bolts
steve, how've you done your "hoop" at the top ?
did the above said modifications to your cage cause any problems for scrutineering ?
thanks
Gordon
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Very true,, think that's bust
....it's only a flat(ish) tyre
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You can certainly buy the plates that were rivetted to the bulkhead, either reproductions or decent 2nd hand ones. Start with eBay or the Land Rover Orphanage.
thanks, i've got the plates which are in pretty good condition, it's just the little stickers i was looking for
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we use air operated guns at work and have small drums of grease, makes life a million times easier
for lugging around, i just use a normal one, but as said above - easier with a hard pipe on the end even if it does restrict your placement.
Gordon
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The lovely MOT man has been kind to me for the last three years in passing the lightweight. There is some serious rust in the rear crossmember and a small hole beteeen the rear spring supports on one side. He has always let it go but last time he said that he couldn't again and I must get it sorted before the mext MOT which is fair enough I guess as he has been good enough to let it go for the last three years.
I have never done any welding in my life so the question is this.
Is there anybody out there willing to lend me hand with this for some beer tokens?
I would obviously buy all the bits needed (rear quarter I suspect) remove what bits need removing or moving and replace it all. I just need soemone to actually help me cut off the old stuff line up and weld the new.
I don't have a garage and don't really think it is a starter to do it in the road outside my house although I can borrow a mates garage for a few of days if needs be but it has no power or light.
I am willing to drive the truck to wherever as long as it is not 'kin miles from me in Twickenham. Alternatively I could sort the garage and someone could come to me if preferred.
As I said beer tokens for the help and tea and grub for as long as the job takes.
Ta muchly in advance.
i'm too far from you (manchester), but i do have a spare (new) rear crossmember that is surplus to requirements.
Gordon
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Hi,
Busy putting a series 2a back together and would like to paint the bulkhead and windscreen frame, and was wondering if you can get the old stickers they came with.
I can't remember off hand what they say but along the lines of "This vehicle complies with the 1860 seatbelt act", and the red one on the window frame, something about driving in 4x4 affecting your tyres etc.
Thanks
Gordon
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sorry if this is a threadjack, but aside from length are the flange patterns the same?
reason I'm asking is I'm trying to work out whether it's possible to fit a Merc 617 to an R380, I know people have made adapters for Series boxes but I can't find anything specific to the R380
mine I believe is the 'short bellhousing', S/N goes 51AxxxxxxxJ from an ex-mod 2.5NAD
the flange pattern for the normal defenders + series' are the same (as they all bolt to the same engines), just the V8 has a different pattern - hence the reason for using a conversion plate.
HTH
G
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cheers for all your help
Gord
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thanks, is this your good work ?
It is my work, I guess it must be OK as it's still attached
are the splines the same the same as a defender on the steering column end ?
No but you can use a Disco2 UJ and a Defender shaft & top joint and it all fits.
are the splines the same the same as an older disco on the drop arm, as i see this is a different shape. The older disco looks straight as opposed to the new banana'd one !
No, the splines are different as far as I know. I'm fairly sure it also has one "missing" spline for alignment.
cheers
so you just used the disco 2 drop arm then i assume ?
have you any more pics of it fitted, and what chassis are you on ?
thanks for your replies
Gord
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This is the shape of them:
thanks, is this your good work ?
are the splines the same the same as a defender on the steering column end ?
are the splines the same the same as an older disco on the drop arm, as i see this is a different shape. The older disco looks straight as opposed to the new banana'd one !
G
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The Disco2 box is strongest, however it also mounts differently to every other LR steering box
The guys you were talking to were probably Adwest.
thanks for the quick reply !
i already have an older v8 box for my hybrid, but got a little bargain on ebay today for a tenner !
from a disco td 5 between 2002 and 2004 (he wasn't sure of the exact year).
how different are the mounts ?
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Hi,
Whilst at billing, i had a chat to the guys that make the steering boxes for landrovers, but for the life of me i can't remember the company name
Have had a search on the net / here, but i'm not very good at finding any info
At the show, they had a colour brochure showing the different boxes through the ranges, and i remember him telling me that the disco 2's (i think) had more upgraded internals than the defenders and earlier disco's. This is what i want to check.
Do the defender / disoc td5's use a stronger steering box than the older v8 disco's.
Thanks
Gordon
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would have helped if you had said that in your intial question
apologies but i thought my initial post was quite clear about me asking for just a light (and a pic with it - but i didn't know which vehicle that light is from).
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When I went from BW t case to LT230 on the RR I simply wired in an amber bulb and connected it up. Worked fine, although it was a tad bright at night so go for a low wattage bulb.
A plain lamp would look better on an SII dash than a fancy one too IMHO.
it's ok, there's and array of switches for different winches and my arb's
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got an LT77 out of a 200tdi defender today which i'm going to use with a v8 conversion plate.
this show's the difference between the disco & defender box's :
loads of space between the bulkhead and the engine :
the gearstick is a touch too far forward, so i'll cut it off and weld it back in the desired position.
now to find some wide angle props / double cardon.
G
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all 90/110/Defenders already have a diff locked warning light fitted in the dash warning light panel & these are always factory connected, if yours isn't working check the switch & wiring.
that's all well and good when i've got a 2a dash though lol
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That's probably the easiest way - the engine sits slightly over to one side, and depending on the exact combination of vehicle, engine donor, drivetrain etc. the mounts will be slightly different. With the long bellhousing it will sit fairly forward, but ditching the viscous fan for electric can save ~6".
forgot that bit, you need a new fan
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Fair enough.
We've got an auto box (same sort of length as the box you have now) with engine out of a 200tdi disco awaiting fitting into a 90, and from our first quick measurements, the engine has to move forward a bit. engine mounts will be sorted once it's hanging in position.
this is a v8 lt77 box bolted onto a spare 3.5 v8 (but not a 90 chassis):
G
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why've you got a long bellhousing'd LT77 ? is this one out of a v8 disco ? did you have a short normal 90 LT 77 before ?
if it's a v8 box, then your engine will move forward. where exactly i can't say as i've not done one yet, but been experimenting on my hybrid.
G
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both in the standard form, i'd take a coil sprung over the leafer.
i've driven a s III for a while, and get damn annoyed when coilers walk over things that you have to work to get over.
but for looks, a series wins
G
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Didn't someone on here cut & shut a bellhousing? and TIG the two halfs together? (with the shorter shaft, obviously )
yes, i saw that. but to be honest, i don't have the access / ability to do that.
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this is the transfer box in the position i want it to stay in (near enough!) - to make prop shaf selection easy !
this is why i need to move the engine back ! it's in the way of the front panel (this is an 88")
the bellhousing is approx 12" long
my other thought, was to get a gearbox out of a normal defender and use a conversion plate on the v8, thus the overall length will be less than 12" i think. my conversion plate is approx 2".
thoughts ???
Breakdown Cover ??
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