stevebus Posted September 21, 2019 Share Posted September 21, 2019 I,m probably in complete denial here,praying that I havn,t got to take this sodding engine out again, ive recently put a 19j into my 110, its all running well, short of this leak between the block and the flywheel housing, the obvious thing to me says its the crankshaft seals gone but for one thing, I have been waiting for temperature sender to come and for 4 to 5 nights been climbing underneath wiping the leaked oil away from the flywheel housing. thing I,d like to know here is does the bottom of the crankshaft oil seals stay submerged in the oil level allowing it to leak, I have changed the sump gasket due to putting a new sump on it to allow a better breather system that one fella on this forum advised which seems to have worked but it wouldn't be the first time ive put a new sump gasket on and its still leaked, surely if the seals are not submerged, after 5 days of not running it wouldn't be a crankshaft seal leak, would it!!! Please help before I go outside and set it alight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted September 21, 2019 Share Posted September 21, 2019 No, the seal is not submerged in oil (providing you haven't over filled the sump) but oil is pumped round under pressure. Have you got a picture? Is oil coming out of the wading plug hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevebus Posted September 21, 2019 Author Share Posted September 21, 2019 Hello fella, thanks for getting back so quick, are you the guy who told me about the breather bit? no piccy unfortunately, not really that techy minded although if it remedies my problem I,ll get my daughter on it, I certainly havn,t over filled it with oil, at this moment in time its probably a little low, and no oil out of the plug hole. its literally along the line of the sump where it virtually touches the flywheel housing in the middle and to the left if your sat in the seat, basically between the main bearing cap, maybe a teaspoon a day or a touch more, nothing is running down the engine from anywhere else, I,d be able to see as its been jet washed and clean and at the same 3 points every time, very fine lines of oil, and I know this is going to sound a little strange but blacker than whats showing on the dipstick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted September 21, 2019 Share Posted September 21, 2019 Yes that was me. I've posted two pics below. The first one is of the back of the flywheel housing. You can see the rear crank seal in the pic. If oil is seeping from behind that then I think it could be the T-seals. You can see them in the second pic below that seal the rearmost main bearing cap nearest to the engine stand. They are poking up before I had trimmed them level with the block. Oil blacker than on the dip stick? Are you sure it is not coming from the manifold side of the engine and picking up some soot on the way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevebus Posted September 21, 2019 Author Share Posted September 21, 2019 thanks again for getting back so quickly, theres no oil on the exhaust side off things, so can I take that the T-seals maybe at fault, I have had a look at the old N/A that came out and I can see its the same as your picture, can these seals be replaced without taking the engine out, by the look of it they can, judging by the N/A, but not knowing 100% some advice here (if you don't mind) would be handy Once again fella, thanks for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 21, 2019 Share Posted September 21, 2019 Replacing the rear main bearing T seals https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/74531-replace-cork-t-seals/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted September 21, 2019 Share Posted September 21, 2019 I didn't find it easy with the engine upside down on a stand! I strongly recommend getting a few incase you ruin the first lot. I used an old beer can cut down as guides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevebus Posted September 21, 2019 Author Share Posted September 21, 2019 Thanks fella, Western too, I looked at your link Western, very helpful, thanks Monkie, you've been a star fella, im a pretty patient lad and to be quite honest ill stand on my head to get it done if I don't have to take the engine out, winter is nearly on us and all of this has been done under a gazebo this summer in a field, I don't want to out there this winter freezing my tits off with engines out and what have you! im not sure where the beer tin comes into it but im sure now that you have brought it up, it will become apparent, we have an abundance of receptacles kicking about here Once again fella, many thanks 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted September 21, 2019 Share Posted September 21, 2019 37 minutes ago, stevebus said: Thanks fella, Western too, I looked at your link Western, very helpful, thanks Monkie, you've been a star fella, im a pretty patient lad and to be quite honest ill stand on my head to get it done if I don't have to take the engine out, winter is nearly on us and all of this has been done under a gazebo this summer in a field, I don't want to out there this winter freezing my tits off with engines out and what have you! im not sure where the beer tin comes into it but im sure now that you have brought it up, it will become apparent, we have an abundance of receptacles kicking about here Once again fella, many thanks Glad to help. This is not my image, I found it on Google. It shows what I mean about the beer can. It allows you to slide the bearing cap back in place with the T seals installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevebus Posted September 22, 2019 Author Share Posted September 22, 2019 sorry I havnt got back sooner was working today, I see what you mean with the beer tin, i,ve just tried to remove the one from the N/A engine and it wont budge but the flywheel housing is still attached, is it possible to do it engine in? I know you said it was difficult upside down, but other than the two bolts holding it is there anything else there to stop it dropping out one other thing fella I have two sets of these T-seals here, one set is quite a strong rubber and the other set is cork, which would be the better, I cant imagine this rubber set is going to tear or rip in anyway, but the manual I have suggests to soak the cork in oil before fitting but to be quite honest the manual in general has been pretty vague right from the off thanks again, once this is all done ill come down to Yeovil and get you hammered, all the best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted September 22, 2019 Share Posted September 22, 2019 Those caps are in tight. You might need to carefully prise them out once the two bolts are slack. Leave the bolts in a loose so when the cap comes free it doesn't fly off and hit you in the face! Be careful of the crank journal and bearing shells once the cap is off to avoid damage. I haven't used the cork type. I got the rubber type. The cap is so tight fitting that you will catch the seals on the block when you put the cap back in. That's why you need something like the beer tin to help guide them over the edge of the block where the bearing cap sits. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevebus Posted September 22, 2019 Author Share Posted September 22, 2019 nice one fella Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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