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problem after clutch change pedal hard but no travel on slave


justustwo

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That should not be like that , it almost looks like the spline is not the correct size for the shaft . I know it's currently 9" , but have you got an old std. Defender drive plate to try on the g/b shaft ? (to ID spline size) , if not do you have any measuring calipers or a micrometer to measure the shaft dia.?

It would seem to be all connected to this " rebuilt & upgraded" drive plate . Have you tried Ashcrofts for some guidance about the original set up ?

In your video of it installed with restricted movement the centre boss of the drive plate would appear to be stopping the fingers travelling . I would suggest taking a measurement of the fitted height of the centre boss from the drive face of  the flywheel and then comparing to a std.  Series 3 plate .

Also , great to prove your assembly was correct and that the fault is elsewhere . It's a good thing it didn't operate as that slack in the splined centre boss would have killed the input shaft splines in use

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Original set up ? note the distance from fingers to drive plate

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Re-furb'd set up ? centre looks much closer to fingers ?

hope this helps

Steve b

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oh bummer that was the answer i really didnt want to hear but that refurbished clutch was all i could find at the time and the fact that it has a Toyota turbo diesel in just made it all complicated .Its so nice having another standard defender where the parts are just what is expected.. the best thing to come from all of this is i have an organised workshop at last that i can work in..

Been running it through my brain constantly and yes the clutch plate centre boss in the old set up does seem to look a bit closer to the fingers but what i cant understand that surely the pushrod on the release bearing only just touched the fingers when i pushed  it with my hand to the full extension of where the slave cylinder would fall out of its cylinder?The fingers on the pressure plate just seem virtually flat on both the old and new  setup and even though the clutch plate you say  is scrap cant see how that w/could allow more movement on the pressure plate fingers? 

My old  clutch setup was working with me for close on 4 years with no problem until it suddenly went due to broken damper springs jamming the system and remember it was an everyday vehicle come workhorse come holiday vehicle. and that pressure plate fingers still looked very flat?? when a clutch system does wear out do the fingers go visually flatter ??

So if i try again to source a new clutch and pressure plate  i can put a micrometer on the input splines to measure and probably count the number of splines  and also try to measure each width of spline as i now have no accurate reference to get a replacement.and having the conversion engine cant get any data  for it

Please keep any further suggestions coming as im working on blind instinct at the moment thanks all

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As I said before, the release fork looked too pivoted and the release bearing too far forward for a running position, and what you just said has underscored that.  Your release bearing is wrong for this mix of bell housing and clutch.  You need a release bearing with a longer sleeve, where the bearing itself sits further from the side lugs that the fork presses on - that will take up the slack between the pressure plate fingers and the fork in its resting position.

The question with that pressure plate and our concerns over how flat it appears is whether there is enough void inside the assembly for the fingers not to impinge on the centre of the friction plate when the hydraulics get pressurised.  Will the fingers catch on the springs in the plate’s hub?

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The refurb'd plate is the one that looks closet to the fingers . There are two reasons for this , the centre damper/splined boss assy. looks higher than the old one and also I suspect the drive plate where it is clamped between the flywheel and cover pressure ring is too thick . the thicker the plate the further in the fingers are pushed by the clamping - this fits with snaggers comment about the fingers looking too flat , as the friction material wears away the fingers move out towards the gearbox .

The over thickness also explains the issue with the slave cylinder and pushrod  , the thrust bearing length is certainly worth checking while it's apart

cheers

Steve b

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