moose Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 Got a problem on a mates s3 1977 88" with the brakes. After some offroading on one of the back drums the bleed nipple was found to be missing which meant no brakes (not that they were all that good before )... so after that i have replaced all the shoes and each wheel cylinder for band new, and had to make up a new rear axle pipe. i then bled the system through, no leaks and now the brakes do work but it needs 2 pumps of the pedal... so i have now re bled the system through 4 times and i cant find any air in it. So what have done wrong ? I found this by searching so will try the suggestions http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6010 the way i have done the bleeding is to start form the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and pump the pedal and hold, then do up the nipple. thanks for any help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 Are they single or twin leading shoe fronts? If it's not air the favourite is springs in the wrong positions (the trailing shoes don't have springs connected to the top holes) and incorrect adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 single or dual line braking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 Are they single or twin leading shoe fronts?If it's not air the favourite is springs in the wrong positions (the trailing shoes don't have springs connected to the top holes) and incorrect adjustment. they are single shoes front and back. and I will check (cos iam most often wrong ) .... but iam sure the top springs are just connect to the front shoe and then onto a peg on the drum back plate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 single or dual line braking? opps sorry single line with no servo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 Normally they bleed easily, clamp the hoses and see if you can isolate the fault to a particular front cylinder or the rear axle. There should be some play at the pedal before the master cylinder pushrod starts to move, but if they worked before and you haven't disturbed the MC this should be OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 so 10" brakes all round, no shuttle valve cos they're single line(which is good). they should bleed up easy. try as suggested and isolating when bleeding, plus once bled readjust brake shoes. when u pump them to get brakes, does the pedal stay where it is or slowly sink to the floor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 when u pump them to get brakes, does the pedal stay where it is or slowly sink to the floor? stays where it is.. I will re check the springs and clamp off the back etc... and see what happens thanks for all the input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameslwt Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 As long as it doesn't have to sit on my driveway for another month in pieces! Maybe you could persuade the owner to help you out rather than just being concerned about what colour to paint his drums! It's a blinged up series 3! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 Another point is that after all that work the master cylinder is the old one. So it could be down to carp in the master that has been stirred up with the bleeding. Cure is a reseal or new master cylinder. This is a common fault after this work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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