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Disco 1 V8 serpentine


Chazza

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Hello everyone,

I think I have a dribbly injector and after 310 000km it might be time for new ones.

Can someone tell me please what make and type the original injectors are?

Cheers Charlie

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Unless it's flapper EFi they're ERR722 / Bosch 0-280-150-227 or 0-280-150-556 or 0-280-155-787, given that Land Rover used the same part number from 3.5 to 4.6, hotwire to GEMS it's only the early Flapper EFI and late late Thor systems that used different ones.

There's a cross-reference table here:

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm

However, I'd suggest that a good cleaning and maybe a refurbish if needed might be cheaper, there's not a lot to go wrong with injectors.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Still trying to track-down the cause of a poorly running engine. Can someone please tell me what the symptoms are for a fuel regulator failure, on a V8 serpentine belt please?

My engine starts and idles slightly roughly and gets worse as it warms-up. There are explosions somewhere in the exhaust.

Cold compression-test on this rebuilt engine is 170 psi on all 8 cylinders.

I have changed the spark plugs, coil, distributor cap and no. 3 lead with no change. Discovered a very wet and clean no. 3 plug, so I had the injectors serviced - no change.

So the engine is definitely running rich. The symptom appeared suddenly overnight, after running superbly on a 400km drive.

 

Cheers Charlie

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I've seen a loose ignition wire cause misfires that made loud pops & bangs.

If the engine is running rich look at things that would cause that - does the ECU have any reasons for thinking it should add more fuel: Faulty coolant temp sensor, faulty MAF, faulty intake air temp sensor (inside MAF), dodgy lambda sensor output, etc.?

Were the ignition components genuine or aftermarket?

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Get Rovergauge. It's 100% the best investment for 14CUX EFI. It will show what the ECU sees from the coolant sensor (and everything else!). The software is free, you just have to buy or make a cable.

It might be worth getting an inline spark tester to see if the spark really is getting to no-3 when running. It looks like it's misfiring and that could be the exhaust explosions, the fule from 3 igniting in the exhaust.

If you start it cold, you can feel the exhaust manifold and see if 3 heats up as fast as the others - obviously be careful!

I had at least a couple of leaky injectors and fitted late 4-hole bosch injectors and burnt a new eeprom with less fuelling to match, but I also have 02's to tidy up the fuelling anyway.

If you're in Aus, you probably don't have 02 sensors, right?

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10 hours ago, Chazza said:

May well be a coolant sensor; any thoughts on how to test it?

Literally a multimeter set to ohms - the resistance values Vs temperature are even given in the manual:

rr_efi_clt_ohms.jpg.6ec899fb22819414a65dec32dfdd9bcf.jpg

Edit: picture uploads seem broken, let's try this:

 C	F	Ohms
-10 	14 	9100 - 9300
0 	32 	5700 - 5900
20 	68 	2400 - 2600
40 	104 	1100 - 1300
60 	140 	500 - 700
80 	176 	300 - 400
100 	212 	150 - 200

 

Not that it would be of any interest but I may have an MS ECU built inside a 14CUX somewhere that came from another forumer ;)

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Thank you for your thoughts everyone.

Yes, no oxygen sensor or cat. converter on the car.

I have ordered a new coolant temp. sensor as it was fairly cheap. Although I have a good understanding of basic circuits and how to make and test them, I am lost-in-the-woods when it comes to testing components. 

Thank you for the ohms scale Fridge,

Cheers Charlie

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  • 1 month later...

Well still no luck.

The fuel temp sensor has been changed and a new MAF meter installed - no change.

The car did have a bad earth somewhere on the body, because the new battery couldn't crank it. I installed a new earth cable between the body and the chassis and that has fixed the cranking problem. Which means there must be a bad factory earth somewhere on the body. Could a bad earth be affecting the ECU somehow?

My next suspect is petrol quality; I bought half a tankful from another town and the problems started the next morning. Might have to siphon it out; trouble is I don't have enough containers for +50 litres.

Can anyone think of anything that I haven't tried? Dodgy ECU or signal to it perhaps? I want to install the MS but I would rather have the thing running properly first.

Going back to my first post; what happens when the fuel regulator plays-up?

Cheers Charlie

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Sorry to ask what should be obvious but you did replace the ECU's coolant sensor and not the gauge one didn't you?

Not sure fuel temp sensor would have any great bearing on running it would only be contributing minor adjustments to the tune.

To make it run super rich it can only be a few things;

  • ECU thinks the engine is cold (temp sensor)
  • ECU thinks there's way more air than there is (Airflow meter)
  • ECU thinks there's way more throttle than there is (Throttle position sensor) although I'm not sure how the hotwire treats that
  • There's more fuel pressure than the ECU expects (FPR)

 

57 minutes ago, Chazza said:

Could a bad earth be affecting the ECU somehow?

Yes, it could.

There's also a link in the tech archive to a full fault-finding and diagnosis for the EFI system, it may be for flapper not hotwire but most of the steps will be similar if not identical.

 

Mind you usually by now I'd have thrown the 14CUX in the bin and stuck a megasquirt in there as kit's the faster way to find out what's not reading right :lol: just stick to MS1 or MS2 because 3 is far too complicated and way overkill.

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Yes, I changed the sensor on the fuel rail.

My hunt for bad earths will continue – under the dashboard I guess?

Where can the ECU be found?

I think the richness may have been because the engine was cold. I plan to run it today and get it hot, it isn't road driveable.

Thank you for your suggestions,

Cheers Charlie

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8 hours ago, Chazza said:

Yes, I changed the sensor on the fuel rail.

OK that's the fuel temperature sensor NOT the coolant temperature sensor and it has very little effect on the running of the engine.

The coolant temperature sensor (the one with the 2-pin connector just above the thermostat housing - NOT the 1-pin one for the dashboard gauge) has a MUCH larger effect on fuelling, think of it like the choke on a carbed car. If it fails it can be telling the ECU it's in a siberian winter when it's not.

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On 7/24/2023 at 10:18 PM, FridgeFreezer said:

Mind you usually by now I'd have thrown the 14CUX in the bin and stuck a megasquirt in there as kit's the faster way to find out what's not reading right :lol: just stick to MS1 or MS2 because 3 is far too complicated and way overkill.

14CUX is REALLY easy... with Rovergauge.

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18 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

Have you changed the coolant temp sender though? Or tested it? 

No I haven't. See my reply to Fridge.

Thank you for the advice,

Cheers Charlie

Edited by Chazza
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16 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

OK that's the fuel temperature sensor NOT the coolant temperature sensor and it has very little effect on the running of the engine.

The coolant temperature sensor (the one with the 2-pin connector just above the thermostat housing - NOT the 1-pin one for the dashboard gauge) has a MUCH larger effect on fuelling, think of it like the choke on a carbed car. If it fails it can be telling the ECU it's in a siberian winter when it's not.

Ah ha! Missed that in your earlier question. Thank you that will be worth changing as the car is rather old,

Cheers Charlie

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3 hours ago, AlWorms said:

14CUX is REALLY easy... with Rovergauge.

I don't disbelieve you but I would rather put the effort into converting to MS. Hence my desire to getting it running well again, first of all,

Cheers Charlie

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