Junglie Posted May 25, 2023 Share Posted May 25, 2023 To avoid muddying the waters further on my ohter wheels thread I thought it would be smart to start a fresh one. Let's assume for a moment that I like the Boost alloys which are currently fitted... but I really don't like the spacers. What I know at the moment is that I appear to have two different rear hubs and/or drive hafts (apparently one from a 200 and one from a 300? and that if I want to get rid of my spacers before they kill me or anyone else I need, at the very least, new front hubs. My Landy is a 1985 110 so pretty early, and as far as I'm aware it's all original, so drums on the back. Is it feasible/advisable/cost effective to update the front hubs to take the Boosts without spacers? And if so, what do I need to change? (because I can't work it out). Similarly at the back, it seems that things aren't as they should be (see here:) I don't know how best to proceed. I can bin the alloys and either refit my original steels (expensive because they all need new tubed tyres) or get some modular wheels or Wolfs and use the tyres off the Boosts...or I can make the Boosts fit properly. But the spacers really need to go sooner rather than later I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpelly Posted May 25, 2023 Share Posted May 25, 2023 I prefer the look of Wolfs. Avoids any spacer comedy too. 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul C Posted May 26, 2023 Share Posted May 26, 2023 I think it is the drive flanges that are the problem, not sure if changing to aftermarket flanges may be a cure. I swapped my 85 front for a 96 disco front as I had a few of them, they say the early CVS are the strongest but I never had problems with the later ones with my 3.9. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 27, 2023 Share Posted May 27, 2023 I used 1/4” spacers made from the centre naves of scrap brake drums. I also swapped the studs for the longer Wolf studs to ensure sufficient thread engagement. Britpart make cheaper studs, but I didn’t trust them and paid over £10 each for genuine. You would still have to deal with the plastic cones. I think Wolf rims are the best solution unless you are especially keen on the alloys. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junglie Posted May 28, 2023 Author Share Posted May 28, 2023 Fingers crossed on some Wolfs I'm currently bidding on... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpelly Posted June 12, 2023 Share Posted June 12, 2023 Hope you managed to source some Wolfs. I also had the same concerns over stud lengths. As per comments above, it's a standard LR factory setup. Cuffing high torque though 🙂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 12, 2023 Share Posted June 12, 2023 I have run Wolf steels with the correct studs, same length as civilian 90,110 for over 20 years never had a nut loosen off, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junglie Posted June 12, 2023 Author Share Posted June 12, 2023 Guys, I am as ever reassured by your comments. And yes, I have indeed managed to source som Wolfs They should be going on tomorrow assuming the nuts turn up (half arrived today...) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpelly Posted June 12, 2023 Share Posted June 12, 2023 Excellent. Enjoy the new look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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