keven Posted Wednesday at 10:36 AM Share Posted Wednesday at 10:36 AM I want to shorten a disco chassis to fit a series 3 tub with the other parts being series and defender parts .Has anyone here done this before and can tell me what i need to do on the chassis to fit the tub.I know i will have to shorten the centre.Im from south africa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted Wednesday at 06:20 PM Share Posted Wednesday at 06:20 PM FWIW I have see 110 hi cap tub fitted to a disco without shorting things and recking it looks loads better than a series/defender standard tub against the disco bodywork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chicken Drumstick Posted Wednesday at 07:34 PM Share Posted Wednesday at 07:34 PM It is a moderately easy job. Measure twice and cut once. When I converted mine we had it as a rolling chassis. Measured wheelbase and figured out how much to cut out of the middle. Then weld back together. Lots of approaches for a solid fit. Eg cut at angle and plate. Or overlay and cut a circle and weld round the circle type of thing. Make sure it is safe and strong. On the rear you’ll want a cross member for a 90/88. I used one with the short legs but one with longer legs would give more scope. You must weld the rear cross member at the right angle for the tub. So you may want to mock out the other body mounts, bulkhead, etc. sadly on mine we got it running slightly down hill. So the front body sits a little high. But has meant more bonnet clearance and more front wheel clearance. Ie a bit like a body lift. Once the rear tub is in shape place you can fit the other body mounts and bulkhead. Depending on where the engine sits and gearbox you will have to fab up the transmission tinned and maybe hack up and modify the seat box. You’ll also need to sort out rad mounts and how the front end all fits together. Then a million smaller items such as steering columns, pedals, exhaust etc. I built an 88 coiler as I had an S3 88 with a knackered seized engine, broken axle and rotted chassis. I also had a great running 200Tdi Disco 1 that just had some rot in the body. I was also building it to compete in RTV trials events. An 88 is similar to a 90. But lots of more subtle differences, such as the inner wings etc. Tbh if I was doing it again I’d probably just build a 100” 90. But competition regs wouldn’t allow it at the time. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted Wednesday at 08:48 PM Share Posted Wednesday at 08:48 PM (edited) 1 hour ago, Chicken Drumstick said: Tbh if I was doing it again I’d probably just build a 100” 90. Probably the best way to go, the original "hybrid", series body on an old Range Rover chassis. During the nineties everyone seemed to be building one, there was even a TV series that detailed the build of one, on Discovery channel I think, very detailed it was too. I think the presenters name was Mark, he was a vet but loved building stuff, I think that's right, the series was available on DVD, it's probably on youtube. It would be a good place to start for the op. Just looked it up, Mark Evans... A 4x4 is born. Edited Wednesday at 08:54 PM by pat_pending 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keven Posted Thursday at 04:08 AM Author Share Posted Thursday at 04:08 AM 8 hours ago, Chicken Drumstick said: It is a moderately easy job. Measure twice and cut once. When I converted mine we had it as a rolling chassis. Measured wheelbase and figured out how much to cut out of the middle. Then weld back together. Lots of approaches for a solid fit. Eg cut at angle and plate. Or overlay and cut a circle and weld round the circle type of thing. Make sure it is safe and strong. On the rear you’ll want a cross member for a 90/88. I used one with the short legs but one with longer legs would give more scope. You must weld the rear cross member at the right angle for the tub. So you may want to mock out the other body mounts, bulkhead, etc. sadly on mine we got it running slightly down hill. So the front body sits a little high. But has meant more bonnet clearance and more front wheel clearance. Ie a bit like a body lift. Once the rear tub is in shape place you can fit the other body mounts and bulkhead. Depending on where the engine sits and gearbox you will have to fab up the transmission tinned and maybe hack up and modify the seat box. You’ll also need to sort out rad mounts and how the front end all fits together. Then a million smaller items such as steering columns, pedals, exhaust etc. I built an 88 coiler as I had an S3 88 with a knackered seized engine, broken axle and rotted chassis. I also had a great running 200Tdi Disco 1 that just had some rot in the body. I was also building it to compete in RTV trials events. An 88 is similar to a 90. But lots of more subtle differences, such as the inner wings etc. Tbh if I was doing it again I’d probably just build a 100” 90. But competition regs wouldn’t allow it at the time. A discovery chassis might be easier to shorten than a series chassis if you look on a disco or rrc chassis the mounts where the coil springs goes both are level on the chassis if you work with that then youll have a level chassis when shortened.My first idea was too shorten a disco chassis and make a 90 but i would have to shorten a 110 tub too it will be better to use a series body and 88 tub or make it like a stage 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keven Posted Thursday at 04:15 AM Author Share Posted Thursday at 04:15 AM 7 hours ago, pat_pending said: Probably the best way to go, the original "hybrid", series body on an old Range Rover chassis. During the nineties everyone seemed to be building one, there was even a TV series that detailed the build of one, on Discovery channel I think, very detailed it was too. I think the presenters name was Mark, he was a vet but loved building stuff, I think that's right, the series was available on DVD, it's probably on youtube. It would be a good place to start for the op. Just looked it up, Mark Evans... A 4x4 is born. I was also thinking of a 100inch on a rrc chassis but rrc chassis are not easy to find.if i do a 100inch build then id go for a defender front look Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted Saturday at 08:04 AM Share Posted Saturday at 08:04 AM On 8/1/2024 at 5:15 AM, keven said: I was also thinking of a 100inch on a rrc chassis but rrc chassis are not easy to find.if i do a 100inch build then id go for a defender front look Both disco 1 and 2 are still the same 100” wheelbase as a (normal) RRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted Saturday at 11:58 AM Share Posted Saturday at 11:58 AM On 8/1/2024 at 5:15 AM, keven said: I was also thinking of a 100inch on a rrc chassis but rrc chassis are not easy to find.if i do a 100inch build then id go for a defender front look 3 hours ago, landroversforever said: Both disco 1 and 2 are still the same 100” wheelbase as a (normal) RRC. Exactly, Disco/Range Rover chassis are pretty much the same, and you said you've already got a Disco! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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