toger Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 Help. I finally prised the cash out of my tighly clenched fists and got rid of the 300tdi and bought a TD5 Two weeks into ownership and I'm not so sure I did the right thing. I have a sort of out of sync grumble from the engine in third gear. If it was a V8 I'd be fairly certain that the timing was slightly out but in a TD5 It's a beauty of a motor, pre face lift,7 seat GS,Metallic Bronze, first reg in July 2001, no cdl (but that can be sorted.) The first owner appears to have been Land Rover as the vehicle was not prepped for sale until April 2002 by Land Rover Vehicles in Warwickshire (Gaydon?), then Ottens sold it to a lady in Salisbury then Halls sold it to me. 58k miles ont the clock. Ive done about 400 miles and £80 in fuel since purchase. I believe that either, It has a dirty MAF sensor or it has a MAF problem or it needs putting on a computer and the timing/ turbo kick in sorted out. As you know I am not a mechanic so dont know the answer, do I have a minor problem or am I in for a shock? I was going to go for a face lift model but I offroaded the last disco and will probably do so in this. Any opinions please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Td5 Alive Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 If you susspect your MAF sensor is faulty, then unplug it. It should run pretty much the same if the MAF is okay. If it runs better, then the MAF sensor is faulty. The facelift disco 2's are better for off road due only to the higher front bumper. That's about the only difference really. I'd expect you'll have loads of oil in your engine ECU wiring loom (Red plug only). Very common with early Td5 disco's and defenders due to a fault in the injector wiring loom. Take out the ECU (located next to the battery) and see if it's soaked. If it is, give it a real good clean up with brake cleaner (prise the white cover off the connectors on the red plug too, to get into the terminals). You will need to replace the injector wiring loom under the rocker cover (£45), and of course replace the rocker gasket (£12). This will prevent oil making it's way to your ecu, although you will need to wash down the ecu red plug a few more times over the following weeks until all oil has stopped tracking through. Best Regards, Gary. www.td5alive.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 The facelift disco 2's are better for off road due only to the higher front bumper. That's about the only difference really. I'd expect you'll have loads of oil in your engine ECU wiring loom (Red plug only). Very common with early Td5 disco's and defenders due to a fault in the injector wiring loom. Take out the ECU (located next to the battery) and see if it's soaked. If it is, give it a real good clean up with brake cleaner (prise the white cover off the connectors on the red plug too, to get into the terminals). You will need to replace the injector wiring loom under the rocker cover (£45), and of course replace the rocker gasket (£12). This will prevent oil making it's way to your ecu, although you will need to wash down the ecu red plug a few more times over the following weeks until all oil has stopped tracking through. And the option of a centre difflock though in every other respect I prefer the pre 03MY vehicles like mine. I use electrical switch cleaner on ECU's but the principle is the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toger Posted February 22, 2007 Author Share Posted February 22, 2007 Thanks for the replies guys, I don't have a clue where the MAF sensor is let alone know what it looks like to unplug it. CAn you point me in the direction of a photo at all please? I will check the ECU, I wonder if the garage putting a brand new battery in before I purchased means they cleaned it already. This changing of loom, is it idiot proof? I have heard of TD5 alive but your location is too far away for me, do you have a rep in the Avon area at all please? And yes BM, maybe I should have got a facelift....maybe I still can once the V5 pops through the door. What do you reckon? The wife thinks I'm mad to consider pxing it for a faclift Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 Follow the air intake back and it is pretty much the first thing in the plumbing after you pass the air filter, look for a plastic thingy in the air intake plumbing with a small harness coming out of it. Doubt a new battery means anything TBH. Yes the injector harness is idiot proof as long as you don't drop anything down inside the engine not much else that can go wrong though the rocker cover gasket can be a bit fiddly to get seated properly around the back. I never liked the four-eyed headlights on the new ones. They work very well, but they look ugly and completely wrong for the rest of the vehicle shape IMHO. And if you break one they are stupidly expensive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toger Posted February 22, 2007 Author Share Posted February 22, 2007 I need to also find out if I have the right transfer case, otherwise CDL is a £600 fitment. I am suprised the "rain water leak onto the drivers seat when you open the door when it's raining" problem hasnt been fixed. We will have to start a "These are a list of mods required for the D2" thread BM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 (edited) Mine doesn't leak onto the seat - it runs down the gutter and then down the little gutter on the edge of the front windscreen - are you sure there isn't a bit missing on yours? Mine is 02MY but I am pretty sure they are all the same. I thought the bits were a lot cheaper than £600 though - check with Ashcrofts. Yours will be one of the "maybe" ones with regard to CDL fitment but it is easy to check on the t/box. Mine doesn't have the spigot Edited to add http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_17.html might be £600 for everything inc labour but not for just the t/box bits. Edited February 22, 2007 by BogMonster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toger Posted February 22, 2007 Author Share Posted February 22, 2007 Two phots required. Door frame leak Bobble bit on the transfer case. I will take a picture of what I am talking about mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 This changing of loom, is it idiot proof? Well LR dealers manage to fit them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 Well LR dealers manage to fit them Oi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 We also destroy the seal where the loom fits in the engine to stop any further oil going down the harness to the ECU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toger Posted February 24, 2007 Author Share Posted February 24, 2007 We also destroy the seal where the loom fits in the engine to stop any further oil going down the harness to the ECU How do you do that please mate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 with a screwdriver. Any oil coming down the injector harness will leak on the front of the engine and go no further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Td5 Alive Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 We also destroy the seal where the loom fits in the engine to stop any further oil going down the harness to the ECU But surely this would drop oil onto the serpantine belt? I've seen where people have drilled a hole in the ECU red plug to allow oil to leak out, but this does not stop the oil tracking down the wires, so is just a cheap bodge! For the cost of replacing the injector loom, and a couple of months vigilance cleaning the ecu red plug, your problem will be solved forever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted February 25, 2007 Share Posted February 25, 2007 No the oil will not drop onto the serpentine belt, just down the front of the engine below the plug. There will not be much oil, not enough to make your driveway dirty. I suppose you could always put a piece of sponge there if you were worried. Fixing the red plug is a bit late - you should stop the oil long before it gets that far, so the best place is at the terminal of the injector harness. By far the best fix is to sell it and get a Tdi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted February 25, 2007 Share Posted February 25, 2007 By far the best fix is to sell it and get a Tdi Very true Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted February 25, 2007 Share Posted February 25, 2007 By far the best fix is to sell it and get a Tdi My thoughts too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toger Posted March 5, 2007 Author Share Posted March 5, 2007 My thoughts too. Hmmm, now the little plastic thing that keeps the fuel filler plate shut has stopped working. Amazing, metal pistoned solenoid activated lock and the female part is plastic !!!! As for going back to the TDi. The series 2 looks better than the S1 and there's no oil leaks on my drive.....yet I have asked myself why I didn't buy a D3 and get a suzuki for off roading. (hahahahahahahaha) Has anyone seen the D2 in the latest LROI Mag? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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