MA966786 Posted March 12, 2007 Share Posted March 12, 2007 On my 90 (1995 300Tdi) I'd like to use the purple permanent live feed to power my rear work light (55W, which is switched directly on the lamp housing) but I want to check if: 1) is the power feed fused somewhere and what rating is it? and, 2) can I simply connect up my light directly with the feed and earth off at a convenient point? I'm unable to see from any wiring diagrams I have, so any help would be appreciated. In fact does anyone have, or can point me to, a decent wiring diagram for my model/year? Many thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyrover Posted March 12, 2007 Share Posted March 12, 2007 Not sure if THIS is what your looking for. ...or better still THIS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted March 12, 2007 Share Posted March 12, 2007 Run a fused supply direct from the battery would be my choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted March 12, 2007 Share Posted March 12, 2007 I'd wire straight back to the battery too, via a fuse and using a relay. There's a relay wiring diagram here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjojjas Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 I did this a little while ago. I thought of using the purple live also, but then I'd still need to run a switch to the front of the cab anyway....so it wouldn't have saved me much anyway. I know nowt about electrickey, so I asked my brother (who knows lots about it....) and this was his advice..... I ran a soldered ring terminal from the battery (fused 5" from battery) to a switch in the dash. the switch was rated higher than the light, as was the heavy wire I was given. So I have no relay. If I was using a lighter wire/switch I'd use a relay. I ran the earth to the same earth as the rear lights which I know is good as I re earthed most of the landy at christmas. If your thorough, then run an earth to the battery....it avoids faults later. Don't ask me what rating the wire or switch are...I just used the (rather heavy) gear my Bro gave me to use. if in doubt, use a relay to protect the switch. Jas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MA966786 Posted March 13, 2007 Author Share Posted March 13, 2007 Thanks to all !! I guess the general consensus is to use an independent circuit (with switch and relay) so I'll have a go at that. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinTheCop Posted March 15, 2007 Share Posted March 15, 2007 I ran a soldered ring terminal from the battery (fused 5" from battery) to a switch in the dash. the switch was rated higher than the light, as was the heavy wire I was given. So I have no relay. Why would you need a relay when it's fed direct from the battery.....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 Why would you need a relay when it's fed direct from the battery.....? Because its possible that the switch used will not handle the load going through it. That said in this case he's using the switch on the lamp anyway so an additional switch is not required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyrover Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 Not sure what the kids are like in your neck of the woods but if I had an external switch on my worklight I'd end up with a flat battery every morning. Why you little....! I also use my worklight for reversing as I (currently) have no reversing lights fitted, therefore I have the switch on my dash, as it would be a real pain if I had to get out to turn the light on. It might be worth concidering putting in a switch on the dash as well as the one on the lamp in order to give it some versatility. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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