MudAllOverIt Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 The 3rd -> 2nd down shift is becoming almost impossible with our R380 box (1997 300Tdi D90, 132k miles) when cold. (2nd -> 1st also but not quite as bad.) When cold it just doesn't want to go into 2nd at all from 3rd -- goes in fine when hot but even then it's still notchy and a bit noisy. This was more-or-less OK, just a wee bit noisy, when the got the D90 a couple of years and 16k miles ago but seems to have deterioted rapidy in the last three months. Have drained the ATF and refilled with the 5W20 full synthetic which so far seems to be have helped a bit when cold. Box is otherwise OK. Whines a bit in 5th but this hasn't got any worse since we got the D90 so not too worried at the moment. I'm assuming the 3rd ->2nd downshift is a synchro problem -- is this right. If so is it an easy DIY fix -- or should I just go the wole hog and splash out on an Ashcroft recon box? Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 From reading the workshop manual there is no easy diy fix to anything on an R380 box. I see you own a Triumph 2000 tc. There's one covered in dust parked under cover outside the workshop. I could send you a photo. It has no rust of course. We have no idea who owns it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudAllOverIt Posted April 9, 2007 Author Share Posted April 9, 2007 From reading the workshop manual there is no easy diy fix to anything on an R380 box. Dug out my RAVE CD and I see what you mean -- going to give that a miss and go straight to Ashcroft I see you own a Triumph 2000 tc. There's one covered in dust parked under cover outside the workshop. I know there's quite a few still going strong in Oz but don't know if you still see them running about in SA. If it had been sitting under a tarp in the UK for any length of time I doubt if it would be recognisable now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSIIA Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 From reading the workshop manual there is no easy diy fix to anything on an R380 box. Dug out my RAVE CD and I see what you mean -- going to give that a miss and go straight to Ashcroft I have to disagree about the R380 not being an easy DIY fix - anyone who can overhaul a Series gearbox can do so with a R380. Both require care and attention to detail if they are to last. A puller is needed to remove the collar on the rear of the mainshaft, and a dial test indicator to check the endfloat on the shafts. The rest is straight forward disassembly, clean, inspect, replace where necessary and rebuild. The only parts that would not be readily to hand are the selective shims to adjust endfloat. I have reconditioned quite a few R380's, but would advise you may be better going to the likes of Ashcroft if there is extensive wear. The cost of parts can soon rise alarmingly if you do a thorough job, while Ashcrofts bring their expertise and a warranty for a not much greater price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 Have drained the ATF and refilled with the 5W20 full synthetic which so far seems to be have helped a bit when cold.Cheers, 5w-20 engine oil ?? what about MTF 94 or Castrol Syntrans ? real manual gearbox fluids ? or just learn to double de-clutch like the rest of us, no need for stinking synchros then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco_Dunk Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 I've got EXACTLY the same problem as Bill (MudAllOverIt) with my own R380....... In the past I've done transmission in/out for clutch replacements, and I've also rebuilt a couple of Series 3 'boxes (thanks to those USELESS springs in the synchro!). That, combined with Dave's comments above is making me think I should at least get the box off and open it up to see the extent of the problem before nipping down to see Mssrs Ashcroft in Luton. I guess that if it all goes horribly wrong then Ashcrofts will still accept an exchange box thats in bits ;-) I'm assuming that if I did the job myself, any replacement parts will be genuine dealer-only stuff (can't see Britpart, etc doing anything THAT specialised) - any ideas on what the parts are likely to cost? Are there any genuine LR parts places on the web that advertise prices (or would that just scare everyone off????) Dunk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Don't use a too thick of a grade oil as the R380 has a internal oil pump & might not take to kindly to thicker oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudAllOverIt Posted May 3, 2007 Author Share Posted May 3, 2007 Our continues to get slowly worse, reverse is getting baulky now as well -- something will need done in the not too distant future. Although I do a fair bit of work on the Defender, and both Triumphs, I've never been inside a gearbox in my life so probably best I stay out of an R380 :lol: Not the best place to start I reckon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco_Dunk Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 I've never been inside a gearbox in my life so probably best I stay out of an R380 :lol: Not the best place to start I reckon You don't know what you can do, until you know what you CAN'T do........ If the worst comes to the worst, it'll be a trip to ashcroft's with a crate full of bits I'm planning to make a start on mine in a couple of weeks (off on hols first), so watch this space!!! Dunk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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