Divster Posted April 26, 2007 Share Posted April 26, 2007 Can you buy the ignition module/ amp for a DLM8 distributor sererately? I've got reason to beleive that mine is faulty but the only part no. I can find (RTC5089) doesn't seem to be recognised anywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
istruggle2gate11 Posted April 26, 2007 Share Posted April 26, 2007 Can you buy the ignition module/ amp for a DLM8 distributor sererately? I've got reason to beleive that mine is faulty but the only part no. I can find (RTC5089) doesn't seem to be recognised anywhere. Never bought one, but know you can buy them seperately. Not sure if its an urban myth or not, but a LR chap reckons he bought one from the local auto factors, who sold him it as one from a metro turbo, it was about 2/3rds of the LR list price? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 26, 2007 Share Posted April 26, 2007 If it's the type that goes on the side of the dizzy yes you can, they're 30-40 quid and I'm sure if you phone Paddocks etc. they'll know what it is. If it's the type that bolts to the wing you can replace it with a QHL-XEI8 / Intermotor 15210 from a Vauxhall which is ~£20 and will run racing coils, I found that one from the Capri V8 forum which has some good tech. I'm running that setup on the Range Rover and it's been fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted April 27, 2007 Share Posted April 27, 2007 The original ignition module on the side of the 35DLM8 has a two pin lucar connector. These were replaced with a 3 pin version (jnr timer housing style) that comes complete with wiring instructions (only two pins are used). Yes, they do go faulty and it is usually latent heat that kills them. The fault characteristics can vary from completely dead, to odd misfire fire problems. I have been through 2 in four years, the first was causing misfire at high RPM ( over 4K) and the other failed when we were out on a night shoot (I always carried a spare) The cost is not great, the last one I bought was £31……… TVR’s used to eat these (and also alternator regulators) regularly due to the extra under bonnet heat. Now that I have gone over to EDIS, I have two known good working units if you need them……………….. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted April 27, 2007 Share Posted April 27, 2007 The cost is not great, the last one I bought was £31……… Mine was about that from Dingocroft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted April 27, 2007 Share Posted April 27, 2007 I am looking at 2 sh ones as I type this, one off my old hybrid (Known good and not old) thwe other a spare (belived good never used it) Both to you for £10 inc P&P if you want to paypal me the dosh ? nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divster Posted April 30, 2007 Author Share Posted April 30, 2007 I am looking at 2 sh ones as I type this, one off my old hybrid (Known good and not old) thwe other a spare (belived good never used it)Both to you for £10 inc P&P if you want to paypal me the dosh ? nige Nige, I'll take them. Can you PM me your Paypal addy please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted April 30, 2007 Share Posted April 30, 2007 Nige,I'll take them. Can you PM me your Paypal addy please. Done ! Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustyrangie Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 The original ignition module on the side of the 35DLM8 has a two pin lucar connector. These were replaced with a 3 pin version (jnr timer housing style) that comes complete with wiring instructions (only two pins are used)." Hi, just seen this thread. I bought a boxful of various ignition modules off ebay recently. 6 were DLM8 type, both 2 pin and 3 pin. My RRC has the 2 pin type. Do you have the info on which pins to use on the 3 pin ones? Also does anyone have any info on how the modules work, circuit diagram, voltages, waveforms etc.? I'm toying with the idea of making up a test rig using an old oscilloscope to check them out. Cheers, Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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