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Botched rear-diff pinion seal replacement


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I had a slow leak in my Salisbury rear diff around the pinion seal.

So, I read this post and decided to give it a shot:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=7903

I pulled out a seal that looked a lot like this one:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/uploads/1157467909..._160_707092.jpg

I looked up the part number for my axel and ended up with part number AEU2515. What was shipped to me looked like this:

post-3366-1191969796_thumb.jpg

Key word - shiny.

When I tried to install it, it didn't go in very deep. When I put the flange back on, it was rubbing against the seal. I backed off the flange a bit (remove, re-attach) so that it was no longer touching and still within the torque spec from the service manual.

After a quick trip around the block, the slow leak has been replaced with a steady flow of oil. I also noticed that the end of the diff casing nearest the flange was warm (cooler further away from the flange).

How far in does the oil seal need to be inserted?

Is it the inner diameter where movement happens or the outer diameter (does the seal spin with the flange, or does it stay stationary with the diff casing)?

Should the seal be pressing against the gasket which is pressing against the oil thrower?

I don't mind having to do this a few times to get it right - as long as that experience comes with a better understanding.

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There's 2 types of seal for a Salisbury diff pinion.

STC4401 or AEU2515

whichever one you use it should sit between a gasket & a washer

fit the oil slinger,oil pinion gasket, pinion oil seal [lipped side first -- flat face facing front of vehicle] using general purpose greaseon seal lips,drift into place,fit prop flange,washer,nut, tighten until the pinion resistance to rotation is either

re using orininal bearings 17.3 to 34.5kgf cm or with new bearings 34.5 to 46.0 kgf cm.

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There's 2 types of seal for a Salisbury diff pinion.

STC4401 or AEU2515

AEU2515 is used up to WA159806

STC4401 is used after XA159807

I have a BA319XXX so I went with the AEU2515. I've checked my axle number, and it is 21s53XXXb. I'm concerned that a previous owner may have replaced the rear axle at some point. Since the part that was in there to start with looked more like an STC4401, this is my first concern. Is there any way to verify which axles were in use with which VINs?

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stc4401 is for rover type 90 rear axle

AH! Well, it's good to know I have the right part on order.

Does anyone out there have a picture of a Salisbury 110 rear pinion seal properly installed? Or if there are any "gotchas" or tricks - I'm all ears.

Thanks for the info, western.

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Does anyone out there have a picture of a Salisbury 110 rear pinion seal properly installed? Or if there are any "gotchas" or tricks - I'm all ears.

No pictures, but in general, if there's a lip on the forward side of the seal, the seal must be pressed in below the casing, so that the lip is flush.

Otherwise the lip just wears away on the flange.

If there's no lip, just press it in flush.

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No pictures, but in general, if there's a lip on the forward side of the seal, the seal must be pressed in below the casing, so that the lip is flush.

Otherwise the lip just wears away on the flange.

If there's no lip, just press it in flush.

Is there a nice easy way to press one of these in without completely destroying it?

It looks like when I replaced it, I didn't press it in far enough - causing all kinds of bad things.

After popping it out and having a look at it - I tried to re-insert it and press it in to the proper depth (ie: practice). The lips on the casing gave me all kinds of grief and the (already destroyed) seal was mangled beyond belief.

Right now I'm thinking that trying to gently nudge it in with a hammer and drift-punch may be the way to go.

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Is there a nice easy way to press one of these in without completely destroying it?

...hammer and drift-punch ....

A punch will usually mangle a seal. Best thing to drift it in with, is the old seal. If you're lucky, the old seal will fit over the new one without damaging the lip, and you can hammer away on the old seal, just keep the whole lot straight.

failing that, a suitably sized socket, bearing on the outside of the seal.

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The lip of the casting becomes very rusty and needs to be cleaned off to prevent the new seal getting damaged when you fit it. It's very easy to damage the Salisbury type seal when fitting it so use a socket that is almost the same O/D as the seal and knock it in carefully (as opposed to beating the carp out of it).

Les.

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As most people have said, the seal is tinny metal, not the strongest of construction and, I found, very tricky to get in. I did succeed eventually but the seal was a bit mangled. I didn't have a socket large enough to use as a punch, so improvised.

If you are lying on your back doing it under the vehicle, try to find correct tools for the job and will make life a lot easier.

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