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300tdi cooling problem?


Ryan
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Until about 1pm today, I had been running my Discovery with a radiator which was missing about 1/3 of the fins on both the front and rear cores!! As such, normal temp was half way on the gauge.

I fitted a new radiator this lunchtime and it seems to be running cool - about 1/3 up the gauge. Is this about right?

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I've had a new rad in for about a year now and the water temp is about a third on the gauge. Goes to nearly half when towing. I know that the 200Tdi generally runs a bit cold, so that all seems to bear out with your experience as well.

.......also had about half the fins missing before hand as well :o

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I've had a new rad in for about a year now and the water temp is about a third on the gauge. Goes to nearly half when towing. I know that the 200Tdi generally runs a bit cold, so that all seems to bear out with your experience as well.

.......also had about half the fins missing before hand as well :o

So did also my transplanted 200Tdi a while ago. A new thermostat (not sold by S**tparts) made the temp gauge rock steady at around 90°C again and with that also a bit of extra power. Diesels need to be at proper temp, that's what I learned... ;)

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And remember that the LR temp gauge is working in virtual reality :huh: . Fit a VDO sender and gauge if you want to know what is happening down there.

Or the Engine Management System that we sell, then you can measure temps and pressures of everything.

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Do I really want to know...? :blink:

Not really. I find the standard gauge is perfectly acceptable for indicating there is a problem, a super accurate gauge that moves every time you break wind into the footwell in the direction of the accelerator pedal is just something I would watch all the time and worry about every little flicker upwards....

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Not really. I find the standard gauge is perfectly acceptable for indicating there is a problem, a super accurate gauge that moves every time you break wind into the footwell in the direction of the accelerator pedal is just something I would watch all the time and worry about every little flicker upwards....

That's alright then!

So long as there probably almost definitely isn't a problem, I'm happy. Well, mildly content. :D

It will be one less thing to worry about...now where is that rattling coming from???

I can now go onto to solving the major problems we face - world hunger, war, can I afford £10 of diesel to get me to work this week? ;)

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Not really. I find the standard gauge is perfectly acceptable for indicating there is a problem, a super accurate gauge that moves every time you break wind into the footwell in the direction of the accelerator pedal is just something I would watch all the time and worry about every little flicker upwards....

I don't agree because the Defender Tdi gauge reads 'in the middle' from 40-110c, by the time it gets anwhere near the red the head has gone.

But we did have a character in the other day complaining about the VDO gauge moving around a lot. I offered to fit a standard LR one for free (we've got boxes of them) but he then changed his mind... damn :(

Sorry about the (almost) advertising. As a Mod I have smacked myself on the head. But I must mention that a famous company that makes a disc brake handbrake and have nothing to say to poisonous insects are to start selling something they get from us ..... :P

And we will sell their handbrakes in return. Pricey, but the guys with lots of bucks will all want one.

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I had one up pretty close to the red a couple of weeks ago (thermostat u/s) and it seemed to have no lasting ill effects but you live in a hot country so you probably see more cooked ones than I do :)

Oh, we get them all: V8's, Tdis and TD5's. V8's sometimes need a head skim, Tdi's sometimes crack the heads and with TD5s we all start praying. LRSA now want the equivalent of 4200 GBP for a TD5 head. We are considering importing second-hand heads from the UK if we can find a good supplier who will test the heads first.

In contrast, a new Tdi head costs about 400GBP :P

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LRSA now want the equivalent of 4200 GBP for a TD5 head. We are considering importing second-hand heads from the UK if we can find a good supplier who will test the heads first.

In contrast, a new Tdi head costs about 400GBP :P

F************** :o

Have you tried the suppliers like Turner Engineering? still not cheap http://turner-engineering.co.uk/html/cylinderheads.html but quarter of the cost of what you are quoting...

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I'll get Brian to e-mail them. We bought a set of top hat V8 liners the other day from them. Not sure about exchange due to the cost of shipping, but we'll ask and see what they can offer us.

I hear today that LRSA offered a lady a new 4.0l V8 engine for R110k which is about 7300 GBP :o

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'spose I shouldnt complain about Paddocks prices then!! :lol:

Out of interest, when I was filling the system, I did what Haynes said and filled it though the top of the 'stat housing with the expansion bottle cap off until water with no bubbles came out of the housing. However, because of this I ended up with an expansion bottle full of water! Is this right? There seems to be some kind of 3-way valve that joins the expansion bottle, the radiator, and I assume somewhere by the stat (can't recall) - should this stop water going to the bottle unless under pressure?

The thingy is in the top left of this picture, resting against the timing cover:

gallery_1731_373_8943.jpg

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That thingy there is a venturi tube and it doesn't have any valves in it. For the purpose of system filling look at it as a simple T or Y ramification.

I don't know what Haynes says (I don't like it but don't mind me on this) but I'll try to match what it says:

- remove the thermostat housing cap

- remove expansion tank cap

- fill the system (through which one of the caps you prefer) until you bring it to level in the exp. tank

- put the exp. tank cap back on (maybe you skipped this?)

- continue to fill the system through the 'stat housing cap until no bubbles ....

- put back the 'stat housing cap.

If you put back the exp. tank cap at the right time and the coolant level continued to rise this means the cap is faulty (the valve that should maintain system pressure). Better get a new one.

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- fill the system (through which one of the caps you prefer) until you bring it to level in the exp. tank

- put the exp. tank cap back on (maybe you skipped this?)

Doh! :rolleyes: That'll be where I went wrong then!!

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With a Defender 300tdi you can fill it with the tank cap off as the tank is higher than it is on a Disco. Personally I view this as another LR stuff-up. When the 200tdi was replaced with the 300tdi the engine moved forwards and upwards but someone forgot that the tank could not move a corresponding amount. Or maybe they didn't care.

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